ill be doinn a sas soon.the front axle has the pinion rotated up and pointing at the tcase.will the stock ifs shaft work?i know the splines are kinda short but with the pinion rotated i thought i might get away with it.if its too short i also have a spare rear shaft with the same tube dia.could i possibly graft the 2 together keeping the cv and get it to work?what other options do i have to making the splines longer without paying for the long slip kit?

ive already done the cv modification to get more angle.
thanks

 

No you need a new shaft. youll want it with atleast 12inches of travel. take your cv flange to a dline shop and have them use it so you dont have to buy a new flange

 

The splines will not be long enough. Try to visualize how far the diff will move when the DS tire stuffs. The axle goes down as well as forward.

If you are short on cash, one can be made from some square trailer hitch stock. Generally speaking, that style will be noisy and vibrate pretty bad over 20 miles per hour, but it is a very cheap and incredibly strong way to go.

Here is what mine ended up looking like:





There are a lot of threads on the web on how to do it. I have since gone to a long spline setup that runs much smoother.

 

There's just something about hearing it called a "D shaft" that makes me giggle.....d shaft....

 

Why would talking about a big, thick black D-shaft with extra long travel make you giggle? How immature.

 

You can use the stock IFS shaft, no problem.

All you have to do is limitstrap and bumpstop the axle to stay within the range of motion allowed by the slip, similar to how much the IFS diff moves.

















Oh - and in case you don't get it - the IFS diff doesn't move, so basically you would waste all the time and money on a SAS for an axle with no travel.

Yet another newb convinced by the web wheelers that he needs a SAS when he really doesn't...

 

If you cap the end of the innner shaft, and tap a hole in the joint end of the outer shaft, and put in a zerk, you can pump a bunch of grease in to the end.
The grease cushins the two shafts, lubricates them, and it will work it's way around in the shafts and reasonably balance it. My friend did it to his on his 89 4runner, and it is fairly smooth (for a lifted truck with mud-terrains) and doesn't vibrate even on the freeway. I plan to go this way in the srping when I lift my truck in the spring.

 

Look close at the outer shaft pic... it's drilled and tapped for a Zerk per your suggestion.. Definitely put one of those in. I actually put one on each side. It will help a lot like Jmazoso siad.

If you don't want the Zerks to rip out on the trail, you can just remove them and thread in button head bolts until the next time you need some more grease.

 

Can't someone SAS a truck just because they want to? The question of spline length is legitimate. Why not ask here?

The same argument about whether someone needs certain things could be made about a lot of mods. Does a guy need lockers? 33's, 35's, 37's...? Sliders, bumpers, winch? What if you have all those and a guy in a stocker wheels the same trail as you just did? Do you have to turn over you license?

 

the pinion is pointed directly at the t case so i think ill need a cv and will not be able to use just 2 joints.i was hoping to get the longer splined portion from another shaft.even if it wasnt toyota.

 

TC always says that......

You can buy a stock front driveshaft from an 85 and older and have it lenthened...or you can clearance the CV on your IFS shaft and have the tube lengthened. I had an 85 d-shaft modified, but after a couple runs I was concerned about it bottoming out.

How to clearance the IFS CV
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/

Here was my original setup...an 85 d-shaft with the tube lengthened




New shaft...

 

thanks ,ive already done the cv mod and put new joints in it cause i knew 1 way or another i was gonna at least use the cv portion.

 

How did you rotate the pinion up? Cut and weld the knuckles? If not, your caster angle is going to be pretty extreme.

As far as the slip yolk goes, it is generally way too short. I have seen one leaf sprung SAS that remarkably used a stock slip yoke without trouble for a couple of years.

If you are cutting and welding knuckles, you can build your own DS. Get the long travel spline kit from marlin or run down to the farm store and get an agricultural course spline PTO slip yolk. Weld in your own tube.

 

thanks they are some great ideas!
the axle we built is a hybrid yota center with d 44 outers.