You were sent a California emissions header.

You need one from a federal emissions vehicle.

I sell them here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f37/...ilable-179930/

 

ill be ordering one soon just noticed a crack in my header...this whole time i thought it was a vaccum leak but on the vaccum lines oh well these look good.

i was looking around in denver, co but cant find a single one of these. Found a few 2001-4 4runners with the 3rz engine yet they had the same cast iron manifold that my truck has.

Ill get some money saved up and order soon

 

Hey all, my first post here at Yotatech. I'm glad I found this site - I was able to find DeathCougars ad for the "mini header" kit and ordered one up for my '99 3RZ Prerunner. I was considering a long tube header, but I really didn't think the extra cost was worth it. I mean, they are cool and all, but considering I don't pull anything with my truck, and in an attempt to save gas, I rarely go over 2000 rpms anyway, so I don't know that I'd take advantage of any possible gain a full long tube would provide.

Anyway, the install wasn't too bad; it was pretty straight forward, common sense stuff, if you've ever played around with cars and trucks before. I had no problem loosening the rusty nuts and bolts, but I did shoot them with PB Blaster the night before. You can do this with typical handyman type tools, although I wish someone would have told me to pick up some of these "reverse torx" sockets first.



Very handy, especially considering that the old manifold has torx-head bolts pointing in 3 directions - made it a little tricky to take apart. I also didn't disconnect the downpipe bracket from the trans, something else that would have made the job easier. I'm convinced I could have done this in 1/3 the time with those two simple tips.

After the install, my truck immediately ran smoother and idled a lot lower. I've only filled up the tank once since then, and the mpg is slightly better than average, but we'll see how that plays out over time. I can't say it sounds cool now, but at least it doesn't sound as bad.

A few pics and a telling video from my install. I didn't know how bad the crack was until my "kick test." This was not done with steel toed boots either...

The stock mani, with the telltale crack



The crack went all the way around the casting





My "how cracked was it" demo

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDxx2vC5Uq8[/YOUTUBE]

Look how much of it was cracked and leaking. The bright "clean" part is what I just broke. The dark / dirty rest of it had been leaking for who knows how long.



So if you are thinking about doing this, just do it. The tips and advice on this site are great!

And, the gratuitous shot of my truck...

 

hey just noticed you out your 3rz back together without a heat shield on the manifold. has this been an issue for you? as i am about to put mine back togther and the heat shield wont line up/fit without some modifications that i do not wish to do right now!

 

hmm sorry wrong thread, how did that happen...

 

hey so i noticed you put the intake back on without putting the heat shield back on? have you had any issues with this? I am about to put mine back together and the heat shield wont fit/line up without some modifications I do not want to do right now. any input would be appreciated. thanks!

 

hey so i noticed you put your intake back on without the heat shield on the exhaust manifold, have you had any issues with this? i am putting mine back together and the heat shield wont line up /fit with the new header with out some mods that i do not wish to do! any input would be appreciated. thanks

 

Several possible options:

A. Modify your heat shield
B. Buy the 2001+ heat shield which will bolt straight on
C. Header wrap
D. Forget about heat shielding alltogether

I have seen it done all 4 ways. Obviously the cleanest is getting the 01+ heatshield. It doesn't get terribly hot under there, just make sure all wires and rubber hoses are up and out of the way.

 

After eight months of running about 60/40 city/highway without the heat shield: Zero issues. Nothing has melted, nothing burned, no bubbling paint on the hood, etc. It seems there is plenty of air circulation under that hood to prevent any heat build up. I don't do any off-roading, rock crawling, etc. but still, I wouldn't sweat it.

 

hey all, I just finished doing this to my newly acquired 95.5. after scouring the options, I found the manifold for $179 @ mid atlantic toyota parts. best deal I could find. plus, the service I got over the phone was great. I swear I don't work for them

Get it here.

 

Smokin' deal!

Wished Id seen that earlier $100 cheaper! Is it TOYOTA OEM tho

 

It is OEM, however that does not include new gaskets, studs, or nuts. In my experience, 90% of the time you ruin the threads on the manifold trying to remove the nuts for the pipe, and the other 10% of you ruin the studs trying to reuse them. Ergo why our kit comes complete with everything you need and saves you the hassle of repeated trips to the hardware store or the dealer.

Usually, by the time you buy all new gaskets, studs, and nuts, you are equal to or EXCEED the cost of our kit

 

Yeah, thats kinda what I figured. Hassle if you've got it torn apart and then frantically trying to find a buddy to give you a ride to the parts store sunday nite so you can drive it monday morning etc.

Anxious to get it

 

Shipped it today and emailed you the tracking, should have it tomorrow

 

after reading this I should probably go check my header. is the power difference really that much?

 

The power difference is negligible, though people have reported a noticable difference. I imagine most of the noticable power difference comes from not having a cracked manifold anymore.

If you have a cast manifold, you have a crack 99.9% of the time.

 

Go pull your heat shield off (or unbolt slide to the side) and look for cracks with a light).

Any tips on installing? Should I put anything on the new studs etc? Any tips/advise appreciated

 

A little anti-seize and a little proper torque goes a long way

 

Cool. I picked up anti seize and paint and pb blaster last night.

Sprayed the bolts going to the head, what else should I soak?

Any idea of any of the torque #'s?

THANKS

 

The ones going into the head are the only ones that really matter. Since the kit comes with all new hardware besides studs in the head, you can break/round/cut/drill everything else off. Or, hopefully it just unbolts nicely

Not sure what proper torque is off the top of my head.