Hey Terry. Where did you get your TPS? I am having idle issues with mine as well. I hate having to spend so much money on a small part, but it needs it.

 

I have been working overtime and things are slowing down a little so I am just now getting to the TPS. I should seem simple with just a feeler gauge and a multi meter but some reason I am just not getting it set.

I was talking to a shop that specializes in Toyota, Honda, and Nissan. I was telling them of some of the issues that a TPS can cause like the Cherry Manifold and surging idle. They looked at me like I didn't know a whole lot about mechanics and I tried to explain to them that I have worked on several of these trucks. I was trying to get the feel of if they could adjust the TPS and left feeling I was more capable of doing it then them so I agreed with them and left. I am going to try and find someone who is confident in getting one of these set. It should be easy enough but I just am not getting it. I do not like the TPS. Once they are set and on the Throttle Body, it is no big deal to work on these motors but this is one battle that I am losing.

I did get a kick out of a search I did on youtube trying to find some way of making it easier and came across a video that Chefyota (Mark) did. I few years back I sent him a TPS Connector and while searching for information I found this.>>> https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt...s%20adjustment

 

Hello Chuck.. I got mine from Toyota Parts East. I agree with having to spend a lot for such a small part but with several hundred thousand miles on them, literally the TPS has been cycled millions of times with accelerating and de-accelrating that I think you are best just to replace them in a lot of cases. The 86 pickup I did a while back, had 200k miles on it and it helped it a lot by swapping it out. If I recall right from Toyotapartseast it was $102 or something like that. I did get the allen screws from 4Crawler just in case I ever have to mess with it again. Once it is set though, I think I am going to get a welder where it can never move. lol.

 

I had a Toyota mechanic to set my TPS, and it is correct. Thought I would have my Cherry Manifold issue solved but it didn't. Truck does run great until it get hot and then cuts out on power.

I posted on this thread>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nifold-196774/ I have only had to ask for help on the main page one other time and that was for a paint related issue. This problem has me stumped.

What I posted

An old thread and I have tried everything on here and still getting a Cherry Manifold. 88 4runner 22re.

Things I have done.
No Check Engine Light but when I pulled codes I got a TPS error. I replaced the TPS. Old Part Number was 89452-20030, Toyota now uses 89452-20050 new from Toyota Parts East. It is set to specifications. No more errors and did try two other TPS to eliminate any bad parts.

AFM has 50k miles on it and passes test according to FSM and works on my 86 Runner.

Replaced O2 Sensor with Denso from www.sparkplugs.com and exact replacement.

All hoses are routed correctly and in great shape.

I have removed the Catalytic Converter to see if this is causing an issue.

I have cleaned the Intake System of all EGR carbon related build up. EGR is functioning.

Fuel System is cleaned from tank to injectors and back to tank.

Timing is set to 5 degrees with TE and E1 jumpered.

Denso Plugs, wires, cap, rotor are in great shape.

Truck runs great for about 10 miles. It then loses power and I can open the hood and the manifold is Cherry Red. Let it cool down and then drive again and it runs great until it get hot again.

I am looking for suggestions but in the meantime I will check fuel pressure and see if maybe my fuel pump is getting weak an not putting enough fuel pressure to the injectors. I think I have a spare set of injectors and ECU to try and see what happens. Any other suggestions?

 

I've also worked on these 22res for years and still dread the tps adjustment.plain pita.

 

Hello Chris.. I will admit that I did not set the TPS Adjustments on the ones I have done. I had a guy to set the last one on the 86 pickup and he has retired and was not able to find him. I checked several other mechanics and I was surprised at what they had to say. A couple of them told me it has to be on the truck. That is not true. All it takes is a feeler gauge and a volt meter. Sounds simple enough, but it kicks my butt every time.

After checking several mechanics that were supposedly foreign car pros, I got an eye opener. I could do as good as they could. Mostly they go by installing it and getting it close. I can do that, but I want mine spot on. Some of the prices they were quoting me was ridiculous. I finally went to Toyota and asked what they would charge me and if they still had guys familiar with the 22re.

While talking to the service manager, one of the mechanics came out and knew right off what it was. I know how to adjust these, so I started asking him questions and he knew exactly. I had him to do it and he did great. It cost me $42 for 1/2 an hour of service but the mechanic had it done in 10 minutes and brought it out cleaner then I had it. I got his name Tim B. at the Joplin Toyota Dealer. I will be replacing my TPS on my 85 with a new on at a later time and he will be the one that I have to do it. It cost a little but so much less head ache to deal with and I know it is right.

Not all of the mechanics at a dealer know the 22re so really ask around. These motors have been out of warranty for nearly 30 years and not to many get serviced at the dealer anymore and most technicians are not familiar with these.

With the questions I was asking around at professional shops really shocked me as well. Something else you should check if having work done by someone else.

 

I took the 88 to a local mechanic for the Cherry Manifold issue that I do trust as he has a scanner for these trucks that help to locate the problem. Even though I am not getting in codes, his scanner has come up with O2 Sensor/circuit error and Water Temp/circuit error. I will be looking into that in the next few days.

 

I've set my tps I believe it is a pain really. I don't know if it really is because accelerating can be a little jumpy and when cruising at 40 and 2k Rpms it feels like it has a little burp every now n then just like I'm hitting a bump in the road or something

 

Great posts and information. Thanks for putting it out there. I have given life to an 87 4Runner. Now that it is street legal, I have been chasing a rotary type noise. Tire balance, alignment, hub bearings, driveshaft… Have you had a similar experience as follows: While trying to maintain speed, coasting, slightly letting off of the accelerator much more noticeable at or above 45mph. Could this be a slack chain in the transfer case?
Thanks in advance for your reply.

 

Hello punks is 4x4... It sounds simple and probably is for some, just using a feeler gauge and a volt meter is all is needed and cant believe how much trouble I had with it. It was worth it for me to have done and will have the dealer to do it for now on. It bums me out when I have to get outside help but sometimes it is well worth the frustration.

Hello bewelch.. Welcome to Yotatech. I just helped a friend with his truck and it was the drive shaft or actually the U-joints. U-joints is another thing I will send to the shop. I pull the drive shaft and have my local mechanic to do. I can do them, but he charges $10 to do it. Toyota U-joints can be a pain to get out. If they haven't been changed in a while I would suggest that. The ones I helped on yesterday were solid and did not make a noise until 40mph.

It has been a while since I have been into one of these transfer cases but I am almost sure they are just gear driven. Try lifting the back end and placing on jack stands and see where the noise is. Have someone to run the truck in gear and see if that helps. Is it only doing it in 2 wheel drive?

 

im putting my $ on the O2 sensor making the manifold go cherry

 

Hello Cyberhorn...I installed the old O2 sensor and it still gave me a Cherry manifold. I then swapped out the Water Temp Sensor, AFM from my 85 and I have an extra 88 ECU and still Cherry. This is really starting to get above my head quick. I still am trouble shooting it and will eventually get another O2 Sensor just to eliminate it. I cant see what could be the issue as I think I have covered every component. It is going to get into chasing wires soon. Cant think of anything that would of damaged wires.

I didn't get to that shackle bolt today. I will compare it to my 85 and if they are the same, I will send one off of my 85 to you for measurements. It is going to be awhile before I get the 85 legal to drive.

 

thank ou terry mine are so badly chewed up getting an accurate replacement... im surprised they havent snapped or ive gotten the death wobble

as for the cherry manifold terry did you check the inside of the manifold an start of the y pipe? something might be holding pressure an heat in there a casting flaw? is it the right 02 sensor for that year? an wired right?

only time ive had that issue was had a clogged header (casting flaw) on a 350 chevy built up a bunch of carbon from time to time it'd backfire an things would be great for awhile

 

Hello Cyberhorn... I got the correct O2 sensor in it. I double checked it. I haven't pulled the pipe and see if anything is in there. Always had a difficult time getting one to seal back up and was afraid of breaking the seal. That might need to be looked at.

 

Cherry Manifold, urgh!!!! I have more time spent on this then I care to admit to. I finally decided to send it to Toyota and had high expectations of getting it fixed. One thing they did find that I probably would not have was the connector to the AFM had a pin not seating correctly. Toyota did get it running better. After I picked it up from them, I took it for a drive and it was dark enough that I popped the hood and it still had a glowing manifold. By the time I got back to Toyota, they had already closed. I left the runner in their shop with the key in the over night drop box and will be calling them in the morning and seeing what they say. Really want this truck back on the road.

On it way to the shop. The fix will be easy, it is finding what is wrong with it. I will say after talking to several other mechanics in town, Toyota had me feeling the most comfortable with them. Some of the other supposedly mechanics had me concerned on changing hub caps.


I have to rent a trailer when I haul a truck. The trailer rental place I use, one of the employees mentioned to me that in Oklahoma, ( I live 10 minutes from Oklahoma) that you have to have the safety chains crossed or it is a $75 fine. Supposedly if the trailer comes off of the hitch that it will land on the cross and not damage the pavement. I have been pulling trailers for years and never heard of that rule or reason. Not sure if other states have some crazy rule like that but thought I would mention it.

Cross I am talking about.

 

crossing the chains is new to me terry now unless its a NEW law all the trailer towing sites dont say anything about crossing the chains

http://trailers.com/state-laws/oklahoma.html
http://drivinglaws.aaa.com/laws/trailer-hitch-signals/

 

Crossing chains is pretty normal up here, but dont think theyre any laws about it Kinda of a personal preference. I prefer that if the trailer came off, that it drop the ground to slow down, not swing into my bumper/tailgate as I try to slow it down.

 

+1. I was taught to always cross chains.

 

Hello Cyberhorn, rattlewagon, and crashburnoveride. For some reason I have never thought of crossing chains and really don't remember anybody in my area crossing them. I do see the reason for the cross now. I still am not sure which way I will go. I am open to other reasons.

I will say that about 15 years ago, I had a trailer to come loose and it was straight chained. The trailer dropped to the grounds and did drag but did no damage to pavement. The only damage I did get was an exhaust pipe got bent a little but nothing close to any major damage at all.

I have not seen the ball that had the bolt that run thru the center of it in years. It is the old style ball and not even sure if you can still find one now a days. Today the ball and bolt is all formed into one piece. The top of the bolt snapped off and let the bolt fall thru. When it came off, I just slowed down slowly and when I got to walking speed, just moved to the shoulder. I think you are right that with it crossed that it would/could slam into the bumper or other areas and do more damage then what I sustained. That was all the experience I have with a loose trailer and all that I want, lol. Just something I have never really thought about but am open to other suggestions.

 

I may finally be on the downhill side of my Cherry Manifold. I took it back to Toyota and they looked a little deeper and said that I had an EGR problem. I wanted to do the work myself as not sure what they would charge to do the repair. Up on further inspection, I did see some carbon on the hood. I did find a loose bolt holding the EGR to the block.


I went ahead and took the EGR off to give it a cleaning and check to see if it was function. By creating a vacuum on the port on top I could hear the plunger operating and with a vacuum on the plunger, I could blow air thru the EGR. That has always worked for me in the past to test an EGR.

I have posted earlier in this build thread or one of the others but for some that may have missed it I wanted to show how to remove one of the pipes that gets clogged and can be a bear to remove. Also the elbow pipe that attaches to the EGR and Plenum can snap if not careful. I use a wrench and gently tap the wrench with a rubber hammer until it breaks free.

We are getting sleet and the roads are getting a little slick so could not drive it real hard to see if I get a cherry manifold but I drove it 9 miles and had just the faintest glow down where it connects to the Y pipe. 10 times better then what it was doing.

Getting the screw out with a screwdriver will just strip the screw. Get just a good enough bit to break the screw loose. Also tapping with the rubber hammer on the wrench as to help break the elbow pipe loose.