rustED's 86' V8-Runner Build-up Thread
#1021
Thanks Mark! I love doing trades, a lot better than having to fork out $$$!
The guy I did the trade with is big time into Toyota's. I met him at a gas station and he was driving a really clean black 3rd gen X-cab with a SAS, TG lift all around rolling on 37's. He was also building a 88' 4runner, and a mud bogger on 1ton axels and 44" tires. He's lived in the area his entire life so is familiar with local trails and said anytime I wanted to hook up and go wheelin to let him know!
#1022
Does anyone know if the output flanges on the t-case if they are the same bolt pattern for the front and rear drivelines? I'm wanting to put the double cardan joint in my rear drive line, just wondering if it will bolt right up to the output flange to the t-case, or do I have to swap out the flange?
Last edited by rustED; 08-06-2014 at 06:26 PM.
#1023
#1024
OK, I answered my own question, lol. I just got done pulling both the front and rear transfer case driveline output flanges off and the splines on the inside are the same, so I should be able to run the front flange on the rear output and use the double cardan joint without any issues. I figured they should be interchangeable, glad I had a spare T-case, just saved myself $30+ shipping on a TG trippled drilled flange!
#1025
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Have you monitored your fuel mileage at all, I'm wondering because I just got an 85 swapped with a 302 that I'm working on getting back on the road. I started a build thread if you're interested.
Last edited by nvwiggins; 08-07-2014 at 10:30 PM.
#1026
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OK, I answered my own question, lol. I just got done pulling both the front and rear transfer case driveline output flanges off and the splines on the inside are the same, so I should be able to run the front flange on the rear output and use the double cardan joint without any issues. I figured they should be interchangeable, glad I had a spare T-case, just saved myself $30+ shipping on a TG trippled drilled flange!
#1028
That's cool that your doing a 302 swap also! Welcome to Yotatech, I'll have to check out your build thread!
Last edited by rustED; 08-08-2014 at 07:06 AM.
#1029
I had a 2 piece driveline out of an 85' long box. I cut it down making it the length I needed, then welded in that double cardan joint from my stock front driveline.
Last edited by rustED; 08-08-2014 at 06:40 PM.
#1030
Well, I got my front driveline done. Basically just took the rear driveline from my 85 parts truck, measured out how long to make it, cut it to length. Then took my stock IFS front driveline cut the double cardan joint out, tapped it into the shortened 85' rear driveline and welded it back together. At least now it feels like I have a 4WD, lol. Here some pics.
^^^ grinding thru the weld to remove DC joint, don't cut too deep! Lol.
^^^new driveline about 4-3/8" longer than old one
^^^ DC joint tapped into place inside new driveline and welded up
^^^ driveline installed, just needs paint
^^^ grinding thru the weld to remove DC joint, don't cut too deep! Lol.
^^^new driveline about 4-3/8" longer than old one
^^^ DC joint tapped into place inside new driveline and welded up
^^^ driveline installed, just needs paint
Last edited by rustED; 08-08-2014 at 06:41 PM.
#1034
Ok, just to recap, lol, awhile back I swapped in AllPro Offroads 6" rear lift. When I did this I cut off the old leafspring perches and rotated the diff to point at the rear output flange of the T-case. I'm just now finally adding the Double Cardan joint to the rear driveline.
As most of you probably already know the bolt pattern on the front t-case flange and the rear t-case output flange are different, so if you are going to put the DC joint on the rear driveline you either have to get a spare front flange and swap it to the rear, or TG sells a Triple Drilled Flange that has multiple bolt patterns on it that will work. I had a heck of a time breaking loose the nut on the T-case that holds the output flange on for the rear driveline. It took a 2' long cheater bar to finally break it loose, but I got the spare front output flange swapped to the rear.
^^^I cut 6-3/4" off the end of the driveline.
^^^I got the DC joint welded in and the driveline painted.
I'm pretty happy with the angle, the rear diff points directly at the output flange of the t-case.
I took it for a test drive, got up to around 70 mph, so far no vibes, I'll update how it's doing after putting more miles on it, hopefully I won't need to get it balanced!
As most of you probably already know the bolt pattern on the front t-case flange and the rear t-case output flange are different, so if you are going to put the DC joint on the rear driveline you either have to get a spare front flange and swap it to the rear, or TG sells a Triple Drilled Flange that has multiple bolt patterns on it that will work. I had a heck of a time breaking loose the nut on the T-case that holds the output flange on for the rear driveline. It took a 2' long cheater bar to finally break it loose, but I got the spare front output flange swapped to the rear.
^^^I cut 6-3/4" off the end of the driveline.
^^^I got the DC joint welded in and the driveline painted.
I'm pretty happy with the angle, the rear diff points directly at the output flange of the t-case.
I took it for a test drive, got up to around 70 mph, so far no vibes, I'll update how it's doing after putting more miles on it, hopefully I won't need to get it balanced!
Last edited by rustED; 08-09-2014 at 09:27 PM.
#1038
Thanks Mark!
Thanks Teuf...if you hadn't questioned my reasons for rotating the rear diff I might not have known that I needed the DC joint, thanks buddy!
***DRIVELINE UPDATE***
Well I drove to work today on a smoother surface road than my original test drive, and I did notice a vibration. It starts above 60mph (estimated, speedo isn't accurate). What I was thinking of trying is pull the slip end of the drive line off and rotate it 180° and see if the vibration gets better or worse. What do you guys think? Is it worth a try, or am I wasting my time???