Thanks Mark! I love doing trades, a lot better than having to fork out $$$!


The guy I did the trade with is big time into Toyota's. I met him at a gas station and he was driving a really clean black 3rd gen X-cab with a SAS, TG lift all around rolling on 37's. He was also building a 88' 4runner, and a mud bogger on 1ton axels and 44" tires. He's lived in the area his entire life so is familiar with local trails and said anytime I wanted to hook up and go wheelin to let him know!

 

Does anyone know if the output flanges on the t-case if they are the same bolt pattern for the front and rear drivelines? I'm wanting to put the double cardan joint in my rear drive line, just wondering if it will bolt right up to the output flange to the t-case, or do I have to swap out the flange?

 

Ok , so I just measured the bolt patterns for the double cardan joint end and the slip end of the drive line, and the DC end has a bigger bolt pattern. I have a spare T-case. If I pull the front flange off my spare t-case are the splines on the inside the same so I can use it as the rear t-case output flange? Thanks guys, haven't messed with this before, lol.

 

OK, I answered my own question, lol. I just got done pulling both the front and rear transfer case driveline output flanges off and the splines on the inside are the same, so I should be able to run the front flange on the rear output and use the double cardan joint without any issues. I figured they should be interchangeable, glad I had a spare T-case, just saved myself $30+ shipping on a TG trippled drilled flange!

 

Have you monitored your fuel mileage at all, I'm wondering because I just got an 85 swapped with a 302 that I'm working on getting back on the road. I started a build thread if you're interested.

 

That's great!! I love being able to swap parts around and always love saving money!!

 

Nice work!!this is good info to know on the flanges,I think I will need to extend my front driveshaft on my sasd truck build...

 

I figured out my mileage once right after I first did the swap. We moved, the new house was almost 300 miles away. I had my wife set her trip odometer on her Durango since she was following me to keep track of the mileage more accurately, since I had 33" tires I figured the speedometer and the odometer wouldn't be accurate on my 4runner. Anyway after refueling I figured it out and I was getting 13.6 MPG. This was at an average speed of 70mph, not the best , but it was windy, alot of the time I was driving into a head wind. Since then I've moved up to 35" tires and haven't figured out the mileage since. The upside is I have all the power I need, it feels like the stock 4.10 gears are the perfect gear ratio even with the 35"s.

That's cool that your doing a 302 swap also! Welcome to Yotatech, I'll have to check out your build thread!

 

Yeah me too, that kept me from spending the money I was saving to buy some parts so I can swap in my new radiator, and my gauges, glad I didn't have to dip into that!

Thanks Chris! ....If I remember correctly, I extended mine around 3-1/2 to 4" I'm using RUF springs tho, can't remember what springs your using.
I had a 2 piece driveline out of an 85' long box. I cut it down making it the length I needed, then welded in that double cardan joint from my stock front driveline.

 

I found the post, guess I extended the front 4-3/8".... I never balanced it and have used it for the past 2 winters in 4 HI without any vibrations!

 

That looks great man!! Nice work!!

 

Looks really clean. Great job.

 

Thanks guys!


Today I worked on the rear driveline. I got it cut and shortened and got the double cardan joint all welded in. I'll post up some pics in a minute.

 

Ok, just to recap, lol, awhile back I swapped in AllPro Offroads 6" rear lift. When I did this I cut off the old leafspring perches and rotated the diff to point at the rear output flange of the T-case. I'm just now finally adding the Double Cardan joint to the rear driveline.

As most of you probably already know the bolt pattern on the front t-case flange and the rear t-case output flange are different, so if you are going to put the DC joint on the rear driveline you either have to get a spare front flange and swap it to the rear, or TG sells a Triple Drilled Flange that has multiple bolt patterns on it that will work. I had a heck of a time breaking loose the nut on the T-case that holds the output flange on for the rear driveline. It took a 2' long cheater bar to finally break it loose, but I got the spare front output flange swapped to the rear.



^^^I cut 6-3/4" off the end of the driveline.



^^^I got the DC joint welded in and the driveline painted.












I'm pretty happy with the angle, the rear diff points directly at the output flange of the t-case.


I took it for a test drive, got up to around 70 mph, so far no vibes, I'll update how it's doing after putting more miles on it, hopefully I won't need to get it balanced!

 

Very nice!!great your saving alota money doing that yourself,a shop would charge out the rear to do that!!

 

That's pretty awesome ED!!

 

Great job Ed. Looks great.

 

Thanks Chris, yeah I try to save $$$ when I can, I'm always broke, lol.

Thanks Mark!

Thanks Teuf...if you hadn't questioned my reasons for rotating the rear diff I might not have known that I needed the DC joint, thanks buddy!

***DRIVELINE UPDATE***
Well I drove to work today on a smoother surface road than my original test drive, and I did notice a vibration. It starts above 60mph (estimated, speedo isn't accurate). What I was thinking of trying is pull the slip end of the drive line off and rotate it 180° and see if the vibration gets better or worse. What do you guys think? Is it worth a try, or am I wasting my time???

 

Too simulate balancing it?? I think it could work or make it worse? Id give it a shot

 

Can't hurt,give it a try.