ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> !!!!!!!!!!!!!! HAHAHA>>>>>>>>>>

I updated my build thread regarding the INFAMOUS "ball and spring" DILEMMA! hahaha.

Still pretty much positive that the Ball in the first one I opened up was NOT there... And I'll tell you why... The spring in the one with what I think was a missing ball? IT'S CAKED in hardened crap.... As if it was never moving when locked in, etc. The other one, that had a ball? CLEAN as a whistle!

THANK YOU, ED.... you'll see why, haha.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Toyo!, I wasn't to sure if I would keep the lights, but I probably will, at least until I get a different front bumper.

Ha, ha that's funny! Yeah I didn't get married till I was 32, had my daughter a year and a half later, been married almost nine years, Ill leave it at that, lol, so I'm not as old as I made it sound, but I will be when the grandkids arrive...hopefully, don't want them having kids too young, you know what I mean, lol!

Ill have to check it out!

liveoffroad

i like the lights on the front, i think they go well with the bumper!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I like your lights on the truck. I think it looks great. You may hear some say that is 80s style but these are 80s trucks. That is something I would like to do someday and is a usable feature while trailing at nite.

Sorry to hear about Mr Dewalt doing a number on your finger. I feel your pain. I got my finger caught inbetween a wrench and the bed while using an impact wrench on the other end. I think that has to be worse then labor pains. Wifey didnt think so.lol..

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Thanks liveoffroad, Ill probably keep them for now, i would like to attempt to build my own winch bumper someday, lol.

Thanks Terry, I've had those lights sitting in the garage fir the last 10 yrs, figured I'd put them to use, lol.

Ouch! Now that has to hurt!!! Yeah I think my finger is just sprained, from past injuries that's what it feels like, its a little more swollen this morning, hurts if I try to straighten it out. The wifey thinks I should go in and get it checked, but I'm thinking, even if its broke, what are they going to do, tape it to a stick, lol, you know, ha, ha!

Redeth005

Holy crap Ed! I thought I was subscribed to your thread. No wonder I never got email updates. Wow! Man major props on finishing the V8 swap and all you've done. Last I read on your thread you were still researching for the swap. Awesome job. Wanna trade? Lol jk

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Hey Richard, lol, its all good, yeah Its up and drivable, just trying to finish up some little stuff, you know! ...I might consider the trade after you get that new CBI front bumper, lol, joking,... naw your runner has come a long way in a short amount of time, it will be BA after your done with the SAS and everything else you got planned for it, not to mention the pride you'll have knowing you built your truck yourself!

rustED

iTrader: (2)

OK guys I need your help! Can anyone post up a pic of the stock front driveline? I'm cutting up two drivelines and building one longer one for my front, and about a month ago my friend pulled out the slip end of the driveline before I had a chance to mark it, so I don't know which way the double cargan joint needs to be clocked in regards to the slip end, if that makes sense, lol, i know they have to be a certain way so you dont get a bunch of vibrations...thanks in advance!!!

Redeth005

Lol thanks ed. Lets see how it'll all turn out. I'm hoping to ride with the big boys sometime within the year ha ha!

rustED

iTrader: (2)

You should have no problem doing that when you're done, lol!!!

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Well, I got my front driveline done. Basically just took the rear driveline from my 85 parts truck, measured out how long to make it, cut it to length. Then took my stock IFS front driveline cut the double cardan joint out, tapped it into the shortened 85' rear driveline and welded it back together. This is just a temporary fix until I can afford a long slip driveline. At least now it feels like I have a 4WD, lol. Here some pics.


^^^ grinding thru the weld to remove DC joint, don't cut too deep! Lol.


^^^new driveline about 4-3/8" longer than old one


^^^ DC joint tapped into place inside new driveline and welded up


^^^ driveline installed, just needs paint

Redeth005

Oh wow nice man! I'm probably gonna need an extended one too when i do the lift too. i dunno. we'll see. did you ever show the steps you took from when you did your SAS? i'd like to learn some more.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Hi Richard. Yeah all my progress during my SAS is in my build thread. If I remember correctly you already have 4" lift springs. If you use those you might not need to extend your driveline as much as me. I used rear Toyota springs in front, (RUF rears up front) so they are longer, and the center pin is further forward than the lift springs you have, so instead of my axel being centered in the wheel well its forward, probably about 2".Also because of the longer rear springs I used, I had to move my front spring hanger further forward than you would have to. I like it forward tho, don't have to worry about the tire rubbing the back of the fender when the tire is stuffed, lol. Yeah, if you have any questions, feel free to ask, Ill try to answer them if I can!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Sup Ed?

Did you still need pics? I can take some if you need em.... 22RE 87 4Runner Shafts?

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Hey Mark, maybe you can answer my question! Do you know if it matters how the slip end of the driveline slides into the driveline, more precisely, how the yoke and U- joint line up in relation to the double cardan joint on the other end? (if that makes sense, lol) I should have marked the driveline, or taken a pic, now I'm not sure if its in correctly or not, or if it matters, lol. I thought I read somewheres that it can cause vibrations if its out of sink, ya know what I mean? Thanks man!

liveoffroad

hey ed, made this mistake on my rear end and thought i had a bearing going out. you want both "U" ends to be lined up, on a stock front ds that means both grease zerk's will be in line with each other

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Thanks liveoffroad! Ill probably have to take it back off to align the splines up correctly, but I need to paint it anyway, lol, thanks again!

Today I need to also address my shock uptravel issue. I didn't mount my shock hoop as high as I should have for the 14" travel bilisteins I bought. This was partly due to not having a body lift and I couldn't raise the shock hoop anymore because of interference with the inner fender. So I think I'm going to modify the upper shock mount on the hoop. I need to gain another 3" of uptravel. I see 2 options. 1) mount the shock mounting tabs on the opposite side of the hoop from the original location. This will make my shocks nearly vertical uinstead of tilting inwards, I don't think it would hurt anything. 2) the other option is to modify the existing mount, lengthen it, but I would have to cut a pretty good size hole into the inner fender to allow the shock & mounting tabs to go through. Ihate to do this, I would probably make a metal cover for it afterwards, any thoughts or opinions?

oneIwilly

Nice work ED,I wish I had your problems instead of mine.lol.I have been somewhat worried about the same situation on my truck.I have been putting the shock mounts off for this exact reason, and I cant wait to see what you come up with.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Sorry, just got to this! hahaha... Thanks to "Lives" for hittin you up!

You got it now, Ed?

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Hey Brian, I think I might have a mount figured out, I might just put some tabs on the opposite side of the hoop, I really should have gone with the 12" bilisteins, but like the idea of having extra droop if I need it, lol. What I would really like to do is have a cross bar in the engine compartment and tie the two shock hoops together with a bushing at each end in the original shock mounting location, and then build the new shock mounts off the cross bar, kinda like the fox body mustangs have that crossmember that ties the shock towers together, ya know,lol, if that makes Sense. But to do it right would take some time, money and a tube Bender, all of which I don't have, ha, ha...back to reality, Here's what I'll probably do:


^^^ something like this, my shocks will be more straight up and down, do you think that will cause any problems? On your truck I think you should be good, since you have more lift than me, (& if I remember right a small body lift) I would think that you should have plenty of room for your shock hoops without hitting the inner fender.

Thanks Mark, yeah I think I got the driveline issue straightened out, will see, lol