hey ed,
anxious to see how those shock hoops turn out for ya cuz i'm gonna be doing mine soon, keep us posted

 

Thanks Mark.

As regards to Richard's build, I was trying to agree with you and what you had said, lol. I was also trying to explain to Richard the difference between the lift springs he has (if he decides to use those) and the springs I used, as the setup, and location of the front axel, and steering box would be a little different since I used RUF springs) you know, lol. I don't disagree about using a kit like the IFS Eliminator kit, in fact if I had the funds, I probably would have gone with the same kit myself. But I was on a tight budget, in fact I spent my budget buying my 85' pickup ($1700.) Which I mainly bought just for the 302, bellhousing adapter/ trans, and front axel. So I kinda had to buy parts for my SAS as the funds became available, ya know, ha, ha. Anyway what I meant to say was if he ended up peicing together a kit, and using the current lift springs he has, It would be a good idea to at least buy a rebuild kit for the front axel and go through it (like you said) instead of just cleaning it up and using it "as is" Its good insurance, and would save him from having to tear back into it later, ha, ha.

 

Hey liveoffroad, yeah Ill keep you posted, it might be alittle while, I think I'm going to go ahead with my plan to build a crossbar that ties the two shock hoops together through the engine compartment. It probably seems like a lot of unnecessary work just to mount the shocks, but in the end I think Ill be happier with the look, more than if I just cut some holes in the inner fenders and lengthened the shock mounting tabs and had the shocks just poking through, lol. Right now I just need to get some $$$ to buy the steel tubing to build the cross bar out of.


^Im thinking of using these bushings welded to the end if the crossbar, then the bushing would bolt into the stock shockhoop mounting tabs, hopefully you get what I'm trying to say, lol. A lot of work, I should have just got some 12" shocks to start with, but I think I can use the extra droop that the 14" shocks will provide, plus this way I have a little adjustability so I can find the "sweet spot" for uptravel, lol.

 

Oh yeah, ok. I wasn't saying you're wrong in any way, Ed,.... I mean, YOU KNOW SAS, and I NO-KNOW SAS! hahaha. Well, I know a bit, but not enough to start tomorrow or anything, hehe

I just wanted to YES, make a point that with all that he's investing, ...he should RESTORE ANYTHING that's gonna be a BIG PITA to get to later, yeah?

Back to your THROATY GIRL! hahaha.

 

yea i got ya, seems like a good plan! i'm still liking your "reverse tab" idea, i might have to steal it!

 

Lol, its all good, I agree with what you were saying 100%

 

Cool, if you get yours done first let me see what you came up with, lol, might be awhile before mine's done! Ha, ha!


Didn't work on the runner today, hopefully I'll get back on the rear seats tomorrow and get them done. Also trying to figure out a cheap way to take the top off by myself. I remember someone using ratchet straps and 2x4s to lift and suspend theirs inside the garage, might try that under the carport. Anybody else got a trick to removing the top by themselves? I got to take it off at least once while the weathers good, lol!

 

I am one that used Ratchet Straps and a hoist wheel'n'hook. I pull in backwards and hoist it up so I can pull my hood up under it and still fit in the garage.... It's CLOSE as my garage is just long enough with my work bench at the nose/back wall... But makes it. HOWEVER.... I wound up standing it up most times up against the side with a cooler and Carpet on top of it under the back window arch, ... and the corners on carpet pieces on top of 'magic sliders'... they really work! haha... It works really well.... And when I'm ready to slap it on again, I just pull up to the garage door and slide the shell over on the sliders and lean it up against towels laid over the corners.

When removing it I just stand up in the back toward the cab a bit/inside the roll bar.... back push it up and slide it forward, keep going until it's about to teeter.. then climb out and pull it out from the back over towels onto the sliders.... Then slide it over to the side/front corner of garage and keep it standing with the top facing the inside of the garage///Propped up on the cooler like mentioned. I actually felt that in the garage, it wasn't working on the hoist... MAINLY because, well, it blocked my 4- 48" Tube Work Light! haha...

Gotta pull mine to do my Side Rails/Con-Ferr thingymadoer.. so I'll probably throw a quick coat of Ford Red on the VERY top portion... it's really faded, haha.

 

mark id almost have to see pics of that puzzle you put together in your garage lol, im moving my work bench tommorow from the front of my garage to the side, ive claimed the garage as mine.....

 

OK...............



In all her glory, before LOTS of work...... MAN, seems like most of which was chasing my tail! Hah..Reminds me of a commercial that fits in this build, Ed, ..... "I coulda hadda V8!" HAHAHAHA.

 

BTW... I can't find pics of the hoist... but I KNOW I have one somewhere, just not in PB. Hmmm... Anyway, see where the Fluorescent Work light is? I put something that looks similar to this>>>

http://images.search.yahoo.com/image...e44t&fr=mcafee

And each side had a ratchet strap over it(so I would have 2 hooks on each side... make sense?

Also, on the method where I stand it up... I have 2 ratchets holding it up for extra support and so it wont fall, hooked through the 2 outside of 4 holes on the top.... It also prevents any possibility of falling over, etc.... Make sense?

 

haha not to bad, thats all i wanted was a pic of the hoist, with the top off and 4runner still in he garage, get what im sayin buddy? thread jack over

 

Thanks Mark for the ideas and the pic of the hoist, that looks like a really good setup!

 

Someone had a thread on here about making a hoist. Really wasnt much to it. Some pulleys and rope. It was a great idea. I seen it about a year ago. I just dont think my carport would support it. I will try and look it up in the near future.

 

Yeah, I like the dual point hoist... gives a lil better balance from one to the other... And it's EASILY adjustable on the rails, side to side(IF you had to move them over either way, to right of left of the truck. Anyway.... I can grab the rope from one side and pull down and up it goes... I Just have to pull up under it, then lift ONE side, lay the hooks of the one ratchet strap under it and adjust a lil up with the straps so that it comes up on one side, off the truck body. Then go over, do the same... Then just hoist it up. It works well... But there are other ways to do it.

 

Alright I just barely caught up with what I missed in the past 2 days. Well Chef and Ed I do plan on rebuilding the axle regardless. That I always knew I would have to do brcause I honestly don't know what the last owner put it through so I gotta play it safe anyway. But to as whivh kit that is my question lol. I wanted call either Marlin crawler or all pro to find out if they'd consider selling me the whole SAS kit minus what I have already. I figure its worth a shot asking. And while I'm at it I can buy the rebuild kit.

 

I hear ya, Richard... But whatabout what he said regarding the 'springs'? That's why I said, maybe you could sell some of what you have and just buy the whole Eliminator kit? That way you'd have bearings and races, all seals, springs and hangers, etc., etc., etc., .... and you could just get started. I KNOW, the money is rough.... Maybe make a deal with a guy that pops up on here or Pirate selling an SAS kit. IT HAPPENS, where guys get ready to install and end up having to ditch the plan, ya know?

Ahhhhhhh forget it... just put wagon wheels on it, cut holes in the floor and FLINTSTONE IT ON OVER HERE! hahaha. JK,... you'll figure it out. Not sure on the kits... Have you looked at all 3, Addicted/Wabfab.org/Marlin, to see what 'INDIVIDUAL' parts or smaller kits might cost you?

PS> I didn't mention the springs because the ones you have wouldn't work, or are junk, etc., etc,., buddy... Honest. It's really because while I know you're trying to piece this together in an affordable way... That can often lead to cutting corners or compromising that only leads to DOING THINGS OVER, later on, when you find in actual application, >>>>>>>>>>"I don't like this set up!".... And whether you've saved or not... THAT WOULD BE AFTER SPENDING LOTS!(more than you already have, obviously.... as it has a lil ways to go to be ready)... Ya know what I mean?

I wish I had a whole kit here that I didn't need... I'd put you on a payment plan you could live with and letcha get started... But alas that's not the case, ya know?

 

I think you guys might be on to something with the whole spring situation. Maybe it might be worth it selling the springs like you said to buy a whole kit that already includes everything. Then just worry about figuring out how to ship stuff out to people. We'll see about that. i gotta check out prices first to see what the whole kit is gonna run me for.

 

Hello Ed, maybe I am missing something and I havent looked into doing a SAS,as it wasnt really an option for awhile, but this 84 I am stripping due to it being unsafe to drive because of rust, I was looking at it today and from what I could see other then the steering section, it looked as though the front springs just need a box/perch on the front, the drivers side of the frame would need a perch for the track bar, would need a hole cut and a steel piece of pipe into each side of the frame to mount the rear of the springs. Basically I would want to look as it was stock or as it is stock with out having to doing all of the lift kits available out there.

Is there really that big of a difference in the frames? I know all of the IFS gets cut off. From what I understand it is quite expensive to do a SAS and as I see it on the 84, it really doesnt look to hard for someone that knows how to weld. I cant weld but have a friend that can.

I could do a bodyswap blindfolded with no worries, but doing a solid axle swap would have me sweating bullets. I was talking to Jason last nite and his son has an 84 and he was saying how impressed he was with the ride of his truck. I was telling him how well this 84 rides, but is a disaster waiting to happen. I have had an 89 standard cab and a 91 extended cab, and neither ride as good as the 84 did. I will be highly disappointed if my 85 doesnt ride just as well. You would think a solid axle rides rougher then IFS, but apparently not the case. Another reason I favor the 84-88 generation.

May be a little long and I havent studied up on the SAS itself. Am I completely off my rocker as far as the differenece in frames and what it would need to do a stock SAS?

Edit..Oops!!forgot about the shock hoops.

 

Sorry Ed, ... I will take anything else to Richards thread,... after this post, hehe...

I got a monthly email a bit back from Addicted Offroad that listed the kit for like 1100$... I think I posted the link in my build thread a couple pages back. I'll find it and post it on your thread, ok Richard?

AND JUST SO I'M CLEAR... I'M NOT saying that's the best way to go FOR YOU... I can't know that really, ya know? It was just a suggestion bcuz I know people run into trouble and sometimes equal expense just piecing things together... Often because the parts separately ADD UP, ya know?

http://www.addictedoffroad.com/index...roducts_id=104



HOWEVER, as I said...... ED and MANY others on here, I'm sure, could help you with a shopping list that is most practical/most logical/most efficient to get it done... And maybe you'd save quite a bit just using the springs you have now/Maybe you'd wishes you'd gone with new springs?/ Maybe you'd find Springs from a Land Cruiser Year (?) up front are best... I just don't have those answers... I honestly just want you to be SATISFIED when it's done, 90%!(100% is unrealistic... Ask ED! hahaha.. ALWAYS something you'd like more, ya know?)

Again, sorry ED, Richard can post next on his build and we'll join him there