Redeth's 1989 4Runner Resurrection
#142
I still can't believe the deal you got on all the sas parts! You might want to look into doing the ifs/wheel hub/Landcruiser rotor swap instead of running the wheel spacers. Basically you reuse your ifs wheel hubs (instead of the straight axel wheel hubs) the spindels are the same, so the wheel bearings, and seals are interchangeable. And you reuse the ifs calipers. All you have to buy is landcruiser rotors, and 4 bolts, 4 locknuts. The benifits are: better brakes with slotted rotors, and the front axel will be the same width as the rear, without spacers (which are illegal in some states for on road use). The rotors only cost $50 for the pair. It would be worth researching, probably wouldn't hurt to get a knuckle rebuild kit too, my trunion bearings fell apart when I went to put the new steering arms on, lol, just my 2 cents, you can check out my build or a few others on here. Look forward to the SAS!!!
Last edited by rustED; Jun 21, 2012 at 10:12 AM.
#143
Ohhhh man you have no idea how tempted I am. But no use starting to cut when my kits aren't complete yet.
I still need to order a bunch of stuff. I don't know everything quite yet but here is just a few things I need to order. I'll try to get everything to the best of my knowledge listed. But if I miss a few ill make sure to add them in an edit post as I go.
Things I still need for my SAS and Lift:
1) Walker Evan 14" travel Shocks (x4) (Maybe FOX shocks. But not sure yet)
2) Shock Hoops (pair)
3) Spring Hanger
4) 5.29 gears (x1) just for the rear axle
5) Detroit locker (x2) for both Front and Rear
6) High Steer Bars
7) Steering Stabilizer (not sure if I need to buy this one yet. If I can use the rancho one I have in with my IFS system then ill just use that one)
8) Tie rod (not sure on the amount)
9) Drag Link (not sure on the amount)
10) Rod ends (not sure on the amount)
I'm sure I'm missing a few other small things but as far as i know that should be the majority of what I'm missing. The most expensive part is gonna be numbers 1,4, & 5. Especially. #1 alone is gonna be just under $1050 and both front and rear lockers are gonna cost approx $900-1k.
I'm still debating whether to buy the lockers just yet because they cost so much. Is really like to just get the axle and lift installed once and for all. But considering the axles are gonna be open, I might as well have the lockers installed at the same time too. Urgh.... Just so expensive.
I still need to order a bunch of stuff. I don't know everything quite yet but here is just a few things I need to order. I'll try to get everything to the best of my knowledge listed. But if I miss a few ill make sure to add them in an edit post as I go.
Things I still need for my SAS and Lift:
1) Walker Evan 14" travel Shocks (x4) (Maybe FOX shocks. But not sure yet)
2) Shock Hoops (pair)
3) Spring Hanger
4) 5.29 gears (x1) just for the rear axle
5) Detroit locker (x2) for both Front and Rear
6) High Steer Bars
7) Steering Stabilizer (not sure if I need to buy this one yet. If I can use the rancho one I have in with my IFS system then ill just use that one)
8) Tie rod (not sure on the amount)
9) Drag Link (not sure on the amount)
10) Rod ends (not sure on the amount)
I'm sure I'm missing a few other small things but as far as i know that should be the majority of what I'm missing. The most expensive part is gonna be numbers 1,4, & 5. Especially. #1 alone is gonna be just under $1050 and both front and rear lockers are gonna cost approx $900-1k.
I'm still debating whether to buy the lockers just yet because they cost so much. Is really like to just get the axle and lift installed once and for all. But considering the axles are gonna be open, I might as well have the lockers installed at the same time too. Urgh.... Just so expensive.
#144
#6 on your list would be the same as # 8, and #9. Tie rod and drag link are both $68ea. You need 4 tie rod ends at $28ea. That on TG's site. Check Wab Fab, Addicted Off-road, or Low Range off-road, they carry TG stuff only better prices!
Here's a link to TG: http://www.trail-gear.com/steering-components
Here's a link to TG: http://www.trail-gear.com/steering-components
Last edited by rustED; Jun 21, 2012 at 10:37 AM.
#145
Oh sweet. Thanks Ed, I'm gonna make sure to have a look at that once I jump on the computer at work lol. I have been looking for the majority of the stuff on the AllProOffRoad.com website. So it'll be good to compare the prices from the 2 places. And the addicted off road website as well.
Does it matter if all the parts are mixed and matched from different sites? I mean it should all work and be model specific for the truck right?
Does it matter if all the parts are mixed and matched from different sites? I mean it should all work and be model specific for the truck right?
Last edited by Redeth005; Jun 21, 2012 at 10:49 AM.
#146
Yeah they should interchange. The pic of the Marlin steering arms that you posted look just like my TG steerings arms, I think all the kits use FJ80 tie rod ends for the tie rod and drag link. All pro off-road has good products, I think they're just a little more $$$. Also you'll need a steering box mount kit, frame tube, and frame jigs, and extended brakelines, didn't see them on your list
Last edited by rustED; Jun 21, 2012 at 11:28 AM.
#147
I still can't believe the deal you got on all the sas parts! You might want to look into doing the ifs/wheel hub/Landcruiser rotor swap instead of running the wheel spacers. Basically you reuse your ifs wheel hubs (instead of the straight axel wheel hubs) the spindels are the same, so the wheel bearings, and seals are interchangeable. And you reuse the ifs calipers. All you have to buy is landcruiser rotors, and 4 bolts, 4 locknuts. The benifits are: better brakes with slotted rotors, and the front axel will be the same width as the rear, without spacers (which are illegal in some states for on road use). Look forward to the SAS!!!
And By the way, You said "The benifits are: better brakes with slotted rotors, and the front axel will be the same width as the rear, without spacers (which are illegal in some states for on road use"
Wheel spacers are illegal? i never knew that that is good to know. you know if they are illega in CA, AZ, and Nevada?
(probably the only places id ever go offroading. But that "ifs/wheel hub/Landcruiser rotor swap" sounds promising with a lot of good outcomes to it. Might go through with it.
And Glad to see you are looking forward to my SAS. It's gonna be a few months before i buy all the parts and they arrive. But i will be posting the parts up as i go.
BTW did i miss anything on that 1-10 list that i typed out in the other post?
#148
Yeah I really like the ifs/landcruiser swap. There are other variations, some use Tacoma calipers, but since you have the 3.0 you should already have the " bigger and better" v6 calipers (I want to eventually upgrade to those as I have the smaller 4 cylinder calipers). But you are also upgrading the rotors to the slotted/vented style which run cooler than the "solid rotor" that comes on your straght axel which can over heat under heavy braking (and running oversized tires) which can cause them to warp. So if you look at the benifits 1.) Better calipers over the SA, and they are free, cuz you already have them. 2.) Better rotors that run cooler, stop better and they cost less than most wheel spacers and are legal and look cooler lol. 3.) You're re-using your ifs wheel hub which has a different offset than your SA hub (and its free) therefore your gaining the extra width you need without adding it out on the end of the hub where it puts more stress on the spindle. 4.) The whole swap uses stock ifs parts, standard wheel bearings, and the landcruiser rotors are very common and cheap, the only draw back that I can see is that you have to drill out the mounting holes in the calipers and in your knuckles and you have to do a little bit of grinding to get the clearance to center the caliper with the rotor ( there are numerious writeups on doing this) and certain years of landcruiser rotors you have to redrill the hub bolt pattern to match you ifs wheel hubs, but that is easy ( check my build thread). But IMHO the benifits far out weight the small amount of time and labor involved. If I can do it anyone can! Lol.
I don't know if wheel spacers are illegal in CA, but I believe the are suposed to be used for "off-road use only". The thing I don't like about the spacers is its like having another set of lug nuts to check, retorque, etc. I have had a few experiences with aluminum wheel where the lugs loosened up on me, and don't care to have the extra worry of having that happen on aluminum wheel spacer! Lol.
I don't know if wheel spacers are illegal in CA, but I believe the are suposed to be used for "off-road use only". The thing I don't like about the spacers is its like having another set of lug nuts to check, retorque, etc. I have had a few experiences with aluminum wheel where the lugs loosened up on me, and don't care to have the extra worry of having that happen on aluminum wheel spacer! Lol.
#151
I thought I'd post an update and show you what arrived today. FINALLY AFTER A WEEK OF WAITING LOL 
Here are the old pix of my vacuum hose sensors or w/e the heck theyre called.
THE OLD:


You can see the inside of this sensor here(the white part inside the middle black piece. The bottom one doesnt even have one, and the top one was extremely dirty)

HERE IS THE NEW:


Still cant believe this little piece costed me just under $230. RIDICULOUS! Thats like a set of 5.29 gears right there for that price. SHEESH!
I noticed the metal piece they sit on isnt the same as the old one. But all the sensors are the right size and fit perfectly with my connectors. I need to either drill new holes and use a screw/nut to hold it in place. Or See if there is a way to take off those sensors and pop them into the old metal thing that holds them. I didnt get a chance to try to mount it right yet. So atm they are just sitting loose in my engine area.
Tomorrow is mine and my girls 4year anniversary and we'll be hitting up the Hollywood Improv Comedy Club for some food, drinks, and laughs so i might not have a chance to get any work done on the right mounting. But I will try to get this thing going once and for all. Some time during the weekend.
BTW TOLD YA THEY WERE JUST AS CORRODED AS THAT ONE VACUUM HOSE FILTER. they look horrible.

Here are the old pix of my vacuum hose sensors or w/e the heck theyre called.
THE OLD:


You can see the inside of this sensor here(the white part inside the middle black piece. The bottom one doesnt even have one, and the top one was extremely dirty)

HERE IS THE NEW:


Still cant believe this little piece costed me just under $230. RIDICULOUS! Thats like a set of 5.29 gears right there for that price. SHEESH!
I noticed the metal piece they sit on isnt the same as the old one. But all the sensors are the right size and fit perfectly with my connectors. I need to either drill new holes and use a screw/nut to hold it in place. Or See if there is a way to take off those sensors and pop them into the old metal thing that holds them. I didnt get a chance to try to mount it right yet. So atm they are just sitting loose in my engine area.
Tomorrow is mine and my girls 4year anniversary and we'll be hitting up the Hollywood Improv Comedy Club for some food, drinks, and laughs so i might not have a chance to get any work done on the right mounting. But I will try to get this thing going once and for all. Some time during the weekend.
BTW TOLD YA THEY WERE JUST AS CORRODED AS THAT ONE VACUUM HOSE FILTER. they look horrible.
Last edited by Redeth005; Jun 22, 2012 at 08:00 AM.
#152
OH and btw i forgot to mention. I have been getting a "Check Engine" light on since about saturday or sunday. We checked the code at my girl's uncles store and it says its an EKG system problem. But its not specific to what it is. I might still have some of the hoses connected incorrectly but i know i need to fix that as well. And that Check engine light came on the day i replaced all the Vacuum hoses, Intake elbow, and also when i patched up the hole in that Air container directly to the left of my air filter(doesnt hold anything. Its just air)
Anyone have any ideas of what the problem may be? Open to suggestions.
Anyone have any ideas of what the problem may be? Open to suggestions.
#154
Especially Dealing with them on a 3.0. There are just so many. I have to go back to the dealership and have the Vacuum hose diagram printed out again. I lost the one they gave me. But i have to see and be sure its all connected right. Thats probably whats causeing my check engine light to turn on.
Lol it really is a pain. I wouldnt mind so much if it didn't cost so much to fix. Like that new piece, is not available anywhere else(new) only at a dealership and Toyota dealerships take advantage of that. And now i have to find what the ekg problem is. So I'm gonna have to play "find a needle in a haystack" to find what us going wrong
Lol it really is a pain. I wouldnt mind so much if it didn't cost so much to fix. Like that new piece, is not available anywhere else(new) only at a dealership and Toyota dealerships take advantage of that. And now i have to find what the ekg problem is. So I'm gonna have to play "find a needle in a haystack" to find what us going wrong
Last edited by Redeth005; Jun 22, 2012 at 08:08 AM.
#155
No routing diagram on the hood underside?
Sorry to hear on the code... grr! You'll get it, don't worry.
Looks like the new apparatus would mount just like the old one, no? It's got different bolt patterns?????? I looked back and forth and didn't see that. Hmmm.... Guess I'm losing it, haha.
Sorry to hear on the code... grr! You'll get it, don't worry.
Looks like the new apparatus would mount just like the old one, no? It's got different bolt patterns?????? I looked back and forth and didn't see that. Hmmm.... Guess I'm losing it, haha.
#156
Nah I don't have anything under the hood. Maybr it used to, but there's nothing there anymore. And the plate that those sensors are held by are different shapes. The part where the screws bolt onto the upper wheelwell(under the hood) dont align right the way the old one does. I'm wondering if maybe these guys gave me the one for a 1990 when they ordered it. Since there is usually confusion for the parts on my year 4runner.
Last edited by Redeth005; Jun 22, 2012 at 10:22 AM.
#158
Sorry guys I got the spelling on those letters wrong.
It is an EGR problem and its showing a "CODE 71"
I'm currently reading someones thread who had a similar problem so hopefully I find the answer there. But if any of you guys have any input at all please don't hesitate to help me out. Thanks!
It is an EGR problem and its showing a "CODE 71"
I'm currently reading someones thread who had a similar problem so hopefully I find the answer there. But if any of you guys have any input at all please don't hesitate to help me out. Thanks!
#159
Ok So I went ahead and bought a Vacuum Modulator. So im praying that this new one will fix my "Code 71" problem like it did with everyone else on that thread. I installed it and then took out my Fuses to reset the "Check Engine" Light. Gonna drive it around and if it doesnt turn on by monday then i know that my problem was fixed 
OLD:

NEW:

AND.... When i went to get the part i went ahead and dropped by the dealership and finally picked up the correct Heater/AC face. It's the 5 setting one not the 4 setting one like you recommended, but I touched the face to see if it was thin or thick And it was pretty thick like the previous "wrong" ones. Anyway here is that face. installed.
OLD & NEW:

HERE'S A CLOSE-UP OF IT INSTALLED:


I really wanna fix the stereo holder thing on the middle compartment area. You see the gap there? I'm still debating on leaving it like that or not. Because i might get one of those Radio thing-a-ma-jigies(i forget what they're called) Thos Car walkie-talkies. i dont know lol
But if i do end up getting one im gonna have to cut it bigger again the way it is.

OLD:

NEW:

AND.... When i went to get the part i went ahead and dropped by the dealership and finally picked up the correct Heater/AC face. It's the 5 setting one not the 4 setting one like you recommended, but I touched the face to see if it was thin or thick And it was pretty thick like the previous "wrong" ones. Anyway here is that face. installed.
OLD & NEW:

HERE'S A CLOSE-UP OF IT INSTALLED:


I really wanna fix the stereo holder thing on the middle compartment area. You see the gap there? I'm still debating on leaving it like that or not. Because i might get one of those Radio thing-a-ma-jigies(i forget what they're called) Thos Car walkie-talkies. i dont know lol
But if i do end up getting one im gonna have to cut it bigger again the way it is.
Last edited by Redeth005; Jun 22, 2012 at 06:48 PM.
#160
Gotta grab some stuff at Pick-your-part if we can find it.... here's my set up in the dash/radio bezel. I helped a member on here install/suss up his 22re and he gave me a bezel and a few other things as thanks(I didn't ask).... Also gave me a cubby for below the deck, the stock ones(OH, that's right, and he gave me this Shifter/Console plastic housing with the dish in front of it where you see my chapstick? That's all part of one piece)..........

I think I have 2 extra bezels,....but they're both cut on a lil bit, but otherwise in great shape. I might have one of those cubbies too... Lemme know one day if you want me to look and see what I have, ok?

I think I have 2 extra bezels,....but they're both cut on a lil bit, but otherwise in great shape. I might have one of those cubbies too... Lemme know one day if you want me to look and see what I have, ok?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Jun 22, 2012 at 11:03 PM.




hahaha... KILL IT, HOMIE!