spent most of the day off my foot it wasnt happy with me but i needed to get something done so 9pm i went out cooler evening air tried to work over the core support nope it did work out after jacking up the front an putting it on stands i sat on the floor an derusted the passenger side and front of the frame got under the upper A arm mounts where rocks an rust had solidified into some kind of concrete using wire wheels a modified old broken screwdriver hammer an a hacksaw blade an 80 grit sand paper around it you can see some of it on the drivers side




then went after every nook an cranny with the descaler found numerous drain holes clogged rocks stuck an jammed into spots like the front differential mount i had to whack them with the screwdriver an hammer to get out
an at 1:30 am i was beat covered in rust powder an flakes of it a good soaking with etching primer an one side an front DONE! just need a good coat of black



tugged gently at the bottom of the drivers wheel a good check for ball joint issues an got a clunk but not at the ball but up inside like the wheel bearings are worn not surprised but sigh!

 

I got to give this a try seems like a neat trick, but like you said you got to be ready to prime. Like the Block that cast Iron wants to rust up quick. Cheers to another good idea.

 

hi there Junk yep either prime the metal or spray an wipe it down with oil to prevent flash rusting such as the inside of my oil pan

 

Sorry bout the bearings........ I think I found the best deal on Japan-OEM Bearings at Napa/w races. BUT, ........Napa sure has changed over the last 3 years. Like o'reilly, they went through a ''parts carrier change'', without the name change like Kragen. Kragen used to have WAY better tools, IMHO... and the best underbody parts of the 3 stores, too, as they carried a FULL line of MOOG. Got my idler there, right when they were swapping over to "Stop-Good" and "Start Good" Crap, and I paid like 20$ for it cuz they were clearing. Paid 50$ for around 500$ worth of Powerbuilt Tools, which have NEVER broken on me in 15-20 years(Always got them there... And yes, I know AutoZone Carries Powerbuilt now... But that Kragen thing was like 80% off on EVERYTHING! for dayz!!!!

Sorry, on a tangent, ... just sad on the 'parts quality' that I'm seeing/getting from the parts stores on lots of stuff. Ya know?

Just out of curiosity..... Could your adjuster nuts have backed off/sheared off the tabs on the star/keeper washer between the adjuster and lock bolt.. and worked their way out toward the freewheel hub, causing a lil slop in there? I'm sure just having to pull them when hoping you'd have not had to pretty much sux, lol... BUT maybe you could have the rotor turned while yer at it too, right? Do you have a machinist buddy? Mine would probably do mine next to nothing in charge... He sets it on there and comes back when the 'WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE' stops crying! hahaha.

Mukino(?) or Koyo were used, IIRC. I put Koyo Bearings, new, inside and out. (Buddy at the dealer looked it up for me and told me EXACTLY what mine came with,...so I could verify my orig's were actually orig, ya know?) They were... And they were STILL pretty good... Probably fine... but after 250K.... I thought it would be good preventative maintenance, right? It was one of those "I feel a lil slop.... But hmmmm, everything up here predates "Gremlins-The Movie", ..... so hard to tell if it's not all contributing to some slop....> KNEW the ball joints were a lil past done.... CA Bushings were falling out on the ends... "SCREW IT, I'MA DO IT ALL!" were my thoughts...

However far you go, I know you will share it all with us.... Curious to see what you find. Hey, at least it's not a blown trans in the middle of nowhere like 'rustED', right? lol.

 

hey guys i am new to YT but i just bought a 91 toyota pickup with the 3.0 and it didnt come with the fuel pump bracket, so i bought an 89 for parts. i figured it would have the same bracket but the one off of the 89 is too long. I was wondering if anyone has tried modifying one because i was thinking about doing it because one at the dealer is about 150 dollars.

 

Hey Stew... welcome to Yotatech.....

You should start a 'troubleshooting' thread when you're enabled with enough posts

Until then, I would say, IMHO, Pick-Your-Part or even a dismantler would be your best bet. Even in a 'DIY' yard like Pick-Your-Part, you would have to lay down and support it, drop the tank(?) and yoink one... But they're SO COMMON to find at the yards out here, anyway... Couldn't be more than 10$ and a couple hours sweaty work. Personally, I'd opt for the Dismantler on this one(If you have to drop the tank and don't wanna bring a good jack in with ya)... Ya know?

PS> Trippy that the 89 is too long... Maybe you have the 'smaller tank'? If that's even possible?

 

Chefyota i appreiciate your feedback, and that is a good idea about starting a troubleshooting thread. I have called all of the junkyards in my area and none of them seem to have the part. The nearest pull a part is in nashville which is 3 hrs one way from where i live, i am basically in the middle of nowhere lol. I think i found one on ebay for about 135 and it is brand new i was thinking about pulling the fuel pump off of the 89's sending unit and using it on the new fuel pump mounting bracket, and hope that that will work for a while. Before i do that i was gonna check the yota yard and see how much it would cost to ship one from there.
And yes you were correct about the fuel tank being smaller on the 89 i think it was because it is a stick shift and my 91 is a auto.
thanks alot for your input.

I was planning on cutting the bracket and welding it back together but i thought better not cuz i smelled alot of gas fumes and i dont really want to blow up! lol

 

hey stew welcome to yota tech!

fraid id have to refer you to Terrys87 hes a fountain of toyota knowledge
as for welding on a bracket if its out of the tank give it a quick spray of carb cleaner to wash it of residue it should be safe to weld on the TANK is another thing entirely

 

chef: i dont know yet we havent taken the wheel off to see whats going on roommate thinks it might just be out of adjustment an needing regreasing we shall find out the PO put acorn nuts over the factory ones around the hub so who knows whats going on

 

It seems like the parts stores quality has really gone down hill lately. How much more effort or cost would it take to put out good quality? Suspension and steering are some weak points of mine but been getting alot of it lately. Acorn nuts?? What will POs think of next?

Hey Stew..Hit me with a PM with a picture of the bracket and show a tape measure with the length of the top to the bottom of one of the tubes. I am getting out of the 89-95 parts and staying in the 84-88/89 trucks. I still have a few of them parts taking up space and would let one go for alot less then that if I have it. While you are working on your tank, I would suggest making sure all of your fuel lines are clear from the firewall to the tank. On my 88 Runner build on the first page there is a link to ebay to where you can get a new fuel pump for around $30 which includes shipping.

 

yay my headlight backer clips arrived, haven't done much with the runner been letting my foot rest playing video games

 

If it is those white tabs, I am a cheap skate, I get those from the yard when I can find some good ones, but most are brittle.

Talking to Chef, he was able to use a 2nd gen domelight for his truck with a little trimming, but sounds like using the maplight would really take some work. Hope your foot heals soon for you.

 

they were cheap an new nylon got 20 of them so if ya need a couple drop me a note

the foot is the foot he trimmed some of the callous off an made it bleed again put a bandaid on the hole said change it in 3 days try to keep off it

told him about my runner sent him the link to my thread an we talked cars a bit he still has his 74 VW bug he had since college so if he sees this HEY DOC! lol

 

did more descaling an rust removal on my rear (a board on the floor) pulled the steering box found out the newer ones are the same bolt pattern for the frame some potential part options! the right one is off a 90 V6 runner my 88 is on the left



painted the passenger side as the primer had several days to set up nice an hard PRETTY glossy black paint! (have to take the idler arm off temporarily to do the outside of the frame there)

 

ok now that the steering box is out of the way we can see the drivers side dore mount an the reason when i was pulling the core straight it broke.. thinner than beer can metal you can also see the huge dent in the core from it hitting the steering box

this is gona get cut out an then repaired we checked an bedframe steel is the same thickness so now my 4runner will be part maytag washer an bedframe LOL!



and after the grinder an cutting wheel all nice an cleaned up ready for repair likely this weekend will be more descaling later tonight i can do that sitting i think ill take the center cross member out clean the aluminum pumpkin cover tape it off an paint the diff which needs painting as well

 

Hey Bud....

NOt sure, but I think a buddy on here is going to post up some pics of the mounting area/chassis recesses, etc., ready for the maplight...... I just can't remember as I can't find the 2nd Gen Maplight right now... I have that Camry one that's KA! And the 4Runner one that's a dual bulb set up like the front but for the rear of the 2nd Gen 4runners on certain years.. But can't find the dang 2nd Gen Map Light I got, ...GRR! I think IAN(Irab) did add 2nd Gen dome lights... But in his 3rd gen Pickup... Not sure, they might be the same. They seemed to change some things LOTS, but not others at all, lol. The Boxes are 88.1-91.8? or something like that... Grego posted it on redeth's build thread. TPZ.com lists them all... Even then, you CAN use them... just sometimes take some modification due to input worm shaft length or something? Some aren't adjustable as well... so that's another thing that might be worth considering for some that haven't figured out which route to take on the 'box-dilemma'

 

TPZ.com takes me to midi light controls LoL

but yeah id like to add map lights to mine made an offer on a set for the 88 on ebay but no response if i could use the 2nd gen ones which are more common i dont mind making it work same with the steering box id like to see what they did to get the lights in

tonight i ordered the new drivers fender black primered sheet metal 98bucks WOOT new metal ow price went up

replacement/upgrade brake master cylinder $24 bucks, which is for much newer 4runners-t100's-Pup's 1inch bore larger fluid reservoir it has the same bolt pattern and workings as the 88's which i discovered a glued crack in my plastic so might as well replace and upgrade it the brake lines on the new are to the side not side an top BUT loosen the one which goes to the top turn it to the side an it will bolt right up might have to hit the junk yard to change out the low fluid connector from a T100's harness

also got the cup holder for under the radio 19 bucks it was the last one i wasnt going to let that get away that will go in my box of when i have new radio this goes with it into the dash

my friend kris got prices from a couple trusted shops many of the 4wheelers use
block boiled clean an then decked only enough to clean the surface up of the HG blowout damage 90 bucks
milling the head to make sure its totally flat 45 (we put a straight edge diagonally corner to corner an there is a "tiny" bit of gap barely enough to slip a very thin feeler gauge in so thin it waved in the breeze but the gaps are at where the HG popped an showed long term leakage

if they have aluminum safe tanking i will likely say yes to the head as well then lap the valves once its back to make sure the seats are good an smooth they want nearly 150 to grind the valves an seats which i doubt the head needs i will be looking into fixing a few issues the intake passages have i saw what porting aluminum can do to help an after years of working with stainless, titanium and cast steel grinding valves for food, medical, chemical use i think i can handle aluminum LOL

 

Sorry bout that, Dragon....

www.toyotapartszone.com is the site. But if you go to Redeth's build... you'll see Grego posted up all the variables for 'interchangeable years' on the Gear Boxes. 88.?-91.?....

Again, sorry bout the TPZ... I was just abbreviating cuz I thought I'd mentioned it in whole just shortly before that.

I hear ya.... if you can make it fit, GOOD ON YA!

 

your good chef no worries i was just razzin ya i figured the lol after would say that

block is off to the machine shop head we need to borrow a valve spring compressor from autozone so i can disassemble the head they have aluminum safe tanking systems
our valve spring compressor has mysteriously got up an walked off

 

thanks terrys87
i ended up just buying the one off ebay cuz they checked my vin and its suposed to be the same exact one off my truck. i just needed the fuel tank mounting bracket, and im going to use the fuel pump off my parts truck. i am so ready to get this truck running! when the parts get here all i will need is a radiator and im thinking about getting a brand new one i found one for 80$. then we're gonna see what this truck will do. i eventually want to add a rollcage, addicted off road bumper, and a solid axle. Those things will have to wait till i get the money.