the dragons 88 runner buildup/rebuild
#181
Oh..... wow... Well, you'll need something in place of those, at least.... They have pipe pieces welded to a tab that slides under the U-bolts.. I KNOW I've seen that. You should be able to make one, no? (Sorry, not as to assume you weld or have all the stuff's to make that thing.. But find the ID of the coil.... get the appropriate pipe... weld a 4" piece of it to a 2" by 5-6" plate.... SOLD! lol.)
#182
PS> FOUND ONE I knew I'd read.......... I'ts on Ih8mud.com..... GREAT read, even if you don't find lots you can use, ya know? >>>
http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...n-project.html
http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...n-project.html
#183
PS> FOUND ONE I knew I'd read.......... I'ts on Ih8mud.com..... GREAT read, even if you don't find lots you can use, ya know? >>>
http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...n-project.html
http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...n-project.html
from what i read the 2nd gen map light the aluminum back housing hits the roof reinforcements needing a spacer of nearly 1/2 an inch wow thats a lot but drilling one hole to match up with the factory 3 isnt too bad... ideas yes.. rolls claws over hands yes...ideas....
#184
primered the fender an put first coat of paint on it (picture is just primer), wont be permanent just to give it protection till the rest of my body work is done then will sand reprime an color shoot with factory red

more work on the drivers side of the engine compartment this was mid way through the descaler is getting a workout

now i previously cooked an painted my battery hold down an was collecting parts to put the passenger side back together but cant find the hold down so i went looking an digging around inside the truck thinking maybe it fell down under a seat
this is what i found under the drivers seat... anyone like to take a guess what that is? come on i know what it is it dont belong IN the truck under the seat!

i knew id have to redo my exhaust as its all different sizes an ends before the rear axle (rusted off the end of the muffler) but jeez! come ON an still cant find the battery hold down got the J bolt but the brace is missing... GRRRR

more work on the drivers side of the engine compartment this was mid way through the descaler is getting a workout

now i previously cooked an painted my battery hold down an was collecting parts to put the passenger side back together but cant find the hold down so i went looking an digging around inside the truck thinking maybe it fell down under a seat
this is what i found under the drivers seat... anyone like to take a guess what that is? come on i know what it is it dont belong IN the truck under the seat!

i knew id have to redo my exhaust as its all different sizes an ends before the rear axle (rusted off the end of the muffler) but jeez! come ON an still cant find the battery hold down got the J bolt but the brace is missing... GRRRR
#185
well today me an kris went out an pretty much went wild on the runner installed the new master cylender (the old was also leaking internaly as well as cracked plastic patched) we finished the welding on the front end, found out what was going on with the drivers wheel an more issues so here we go with the pictures
the first patch for the body frame mount Hmm, its shaped like a 4 coincidence? also core support repair done


kris broke out the stick welder for the support the thickness of the metal an wanting a very strong weld
the first patch for the body frame mount Hmm, its shaped like a 4 coincidence? also core support repair done


kris broke out the stick welder for the support the thickness of the metal an wanting a very strong weld
#186
all welded up primered not gona clean them up i see them as the scars of a good life

annnd one of the new found issues the PO left the wheel bearings lose on the drivers side so we dug in to find out how bad things were the bearings are still good races are as well rear seal was damaged from the loseness the locking washer was not even tab bent to hold the nuts which is why it was lose! an the backer plate was rusted beyond saving even 2 bolts were flat rusted off an gone going to run her without till i can eventually replace it

new master cylinder this is from the 93-99 toyota 4runner tacomas ect 1inch bore larger fluid reserve lighter! an fits perfectly the old one was leaking at the main piston seal the resivour was cracked an sealed why not upgrade! i need to get the fluid level wiring from the junk yard that was the only thing needed to make this change! well an the 25 bucks for the new master

annnd one of the new found issues the PO left the wheel bearings lose on the drivers side so we dug in to find out how bad things were the bearings are still good races are as well rear seal was damaged from the loseness the locking washer was not even tab bent to hold the nuts which is why it was lose! an the backer plate was rusted beyond saving even 2 bolts were flat rusted off an gone going to run her without till i can eventually replace it

new master cylinder this is from the 93-99 toyota 4runner tacomas ect 1inch bore larger fluid reserve lighter! an fits perfectly the old one was leaking at the main piston seal the resivour was cracked an sealed why not upgrade! i need to get the fluid level wiring from the junk yard that was the only thing needed to make this change! well an the 25 bucks for the new master
#187
front end all painted purdy! just a bit more since we have the wheels off will go after the A arms an such finish the cross member (sand blasting it an have to drill out long ago broken off skid plate bolt)

oops i got black on the red.... dang it!

so list of parts needed now
1 cone washer (shot off into the shop an we cant find it)
rear wheel bearing seal (either 26 or 3 depending on brand)
2 brake line spring clips (which were missing) will be doing a brake line mod on them will take pictures so you can remove the spring clips an dont have to open the brake line system to move the calipers out of the way for wheel bearing maintenance
2 coats of paint on the fender looks good! gona lightly scuff an hit it with clear to protect the paint

oops i got black on the red.... dang it!

so list of parts needed now
1 cone washer (shot off into the shop an we cant find it)
rear wheel bearing seal (either 26 or 3 depending on brand)
2 brake line spring clips (which were missing) will be doing a brake line mod on them will take pictures so you can remove the spring clips an dont have to open the brake line system to move the calipers out of the way for wheel bearing maintenance
2 coats of paint on the fender looks good! gona lightly scuff an hit it with clear to protect the paint
#190
DAYUMMMMMM, ..... you're break'n em off sump'n at a NICE clip, man! Great work, Dragon! Getting closer and closer... And, ..hmmmm, i've been wanting to do the Master Cyl Mod for a while,.....but thought it was best advised to also do the double diaphragm booster and caliper upgrade as well, no? Does this likely help to at least increase 'speed' of pressure to the calipers/Wheel cyl's?????? NICE WORK, don't get me wrong... just asking
#191
Just getting caught up on your tread. You are making some big progress. I will be glad when I can do patch work and the tools to do it with.
That primer will protect it for a little while, looks to be a straight panel. I am doing the V6brake upgrade someday as well. Think it is well worth the investment.
That primer will protect it for a little while, looks to be a straight panel. I am doing the V6brake upgrade someday as well. Think it is well worth the investment.
#192
well chef the upgrade was gona be optional but then i spotted the leak an then the cracked an patched plastic on the original master cylinder
now hydraulics works on the size means less effort so 1" vs 5/8" the larger piston will push easier to get the same net effect (motion) with greater push (pressure) plus it has more fluid reserve and its NEW lol
oh i painted things as well terry its rattle can but it will look nice till i get done with the other body work needed there is a color diference tween the two red's but it might be also i used red primer under it instead of grey
put a lot of her back together bit worried about the corner marker alignment/fitment wont know how bad it is till i get a grill an headlight surrounds

also fixed the stock airbox which was all bent up from the nose whack she'd taken its not bolted down in the picture its just sitting there making sure it fits again
now hydraulics works on the size means less effort so 1" vs 5/8" the larger piston will push easier to get the same net effect (motion) with greater push (pressure) plus it has more fluid reserve and its NEW lol
oh i painted things as well terry its rattle can but it will look nice till i get done with the other body work needed there is a color diference tween the two red's but it might be also i used red primer under it instead of grey
put a lot of her back together bit worried about the corner marker alignment/fitment wont know how bad it is till i get a grill an headlight surrounds

also fixed the stock airbox which was all bent up from the nose whack she'd taken its not bolted down in the picture its just sitting there making sure it fits again
#193
Your runner is looking 100 times better then when you started. Rattle can paint will keep the surface rust from coming back. Primer just doesnt last long.
You will have a slight gap on the marker light at the top, the back side looks great. You should be able to have enough adjustments to set the gap on the sides.
When I watched shows and they did all assembly and disassembly, I didnt fully understand it, I understand now and it makes a difference.
You will have a slight gap on the marker light at the top, the back side looks great. You should be able to have enough adjustments to set the gap on the sides.
When I watched shows and they did all assembly and disassembly, I didnt fully understand it, I understand now and it makes a difference.
#194
Your runner is looking 100 times better then when you started. Rattle can paint will keep the surface rust from coming back. Primer just doesnt last long.
You will have a slight gap on the marker light at the top, the back side looks great. You should be able to have enough adjustments to set the gap on the sides.
When I watched shows and they did all assembly and disassembly, I didnt fully understand it, I understand now and it makes a difference.
You will have a slight gap on the marker light at the top, the back side looks great. You should be able to have enough adjustments to set the gap on the sides.
When I watched shows and they did all assembly and disassembly, I didnt fully understand it, I understand now and it makes a difference.
an a huge thanks to chef for the help with the cone washers!!
dealership wanted near$4 each plus a 4 day wait junk yard wanted to sell me an entire hub with the cones for 20$
got the connector for the new brake master cylinder wired it up to the old masters pigtail an vola no cutting of the original harness

an here it is installed

and my home brewed battery hold down since mine went walkabout after being cooked an painted
bright stainless tube flattened an arched a bit over the washer fluid bottle holes off set a bit to help hold the battery

also reinstalled my ac condenser coils to the front of the truck lines still open as the O'rings have to be replaced an the drier as well
found out the front disk brake shields are "discontinued" from the dealer an the rears are 101 each
#195
Your battery hold down turned out nice. I would think some of the newer trucks brake sheilds would interchange but dont know for sure. Each piece is one piece closer to it being done.
Your MC wire turned out nice.
Your MC wire turned out nice.
#196
i wish i could get to the junk yards myself (having to go through others is a pain) id like to do some comparisons the rear one is an absolute need as the pads an such attach to the backing plate
#197
Hey man just catching up, you've made a lot of progress looking good. I have a couple pairs of front dust sheild/backing plates if your intressted there your for shipping just let me know. Keep up the good work.
#198
list of stuff
drivers fender replacement: completed
drivers inner fender straighten: completed
core support straighten + repairs to sub assemblies: completed
frame derusting engine area +A arms (prime an paint): 80% complete
passenger fender rust out repair: NEED
rear wheel well arches rust out: NEED
minor dents repair: NEED
hood edge damage from fender: NEED
rear tailgate repair of trim/lock/lic plates lights & repaint: NEED
grill: NEED
headlight surrounds: NEED
bumper and end caps: NEED
valence: NEED
master cylinder upgrade: completed
wheel bearing issue (repack after checking):
drivers completed (PO left locking washer lose ruined rear seal)
passenger: NEED to check an repack
front shields (drivers total loss need to drill out rusted off bolts an run tap, pass TBD): "jason in tn" solid lead on replacements does happy dance
rear backing plates: NEED dealer $101 possible leads in part out threads
zuk mod coils: bought NEED install
engine bay:
rusted components cleaned primered painted: completed
radiator ends cleaned reattached to core assembly painted: completed
ac condenser coils cleaned painted: done
valve cover cleaned polished painted: done
upper intake cleaned polished painted: done
lower intake cleaned polished painted: NEED (purchase injector Oring & filter kit)
steering box: replaced need primer paint
wiring harness (injector crimps removed joints soldiered): done
block-
boiled: done
primered: done
checked for specs: done all GOOD (gasket surfaces smoothed by machine shop)
helicoiled bad hole after stud removed: done
head: need re-ring kit for valve stem seals for shop to install after disassemble, boil,lapping
timing chain: NEED
timing cover: need to finish cleaning
rear seal: NEED
front seal: NEED
upgrade of cam: maybe.. need info on yotashop.com thread - no replies - want RV type 1 cam perf + fuel econ improvement?
other-
need passenger arm rest/door handle
remove L trim on top for cleaning an repair (possible powder coat for durability)
sand repaint top
repair tear in seat
" " " pass rear side panel
" " " headliner
" crack " passenger plastic panel in cargo area
replace all interior lights with LED's
add floor lighting strips under dash
add fog lights
SR5 cluster - arrived fully paid for need clean an maintenance
likely more to add to the list
drivers fender replacement: completed
drivers inner fender straighten: completed
core support straighten + repairs to sub assemblies: completed
frame derusting engine area +A arms (prime an paint): 80% complete
passenger fender rust out repair: NEED
rear wheel well arches rust out: NEED
minor dents repair: NEED
hood edge damage from fender: NEED
rear tailgate repair of trim/lock/lic plates lights & repaint: NEED
grill: NEED
headlight surrounds: NEED
bumper and end caps: NEED
valence: NEED
master cylinder upgrade: completed
wheel bearing issue (repack after checking):
drivers completed (PO left locking washer lose ruined rear seal)
passenger: NEED to check an repack
front shields (drivers total loss need to drill out rusted off bolts an run tap, pass TBD): "jason in tn" solid lead on replacements does happy dance
rear backing plates: NEED dealer $101 possible leads in part out threads
zuk mod coils: bought NEED install
engine bay:
rusted components cleaned primered painted: completed
radiator ends cleaned reattached to core assembly painted: completed
ac condenser coils cleaned painted: done
valve cover cleaned polished painted: done
upper intake cleaned polished painted: done
lower intake cleaned polished painted: NEED (purchase injector Oring & filter kit)
steering box: replaced need primer paint
wiring harness (injector crimps removed joints soldiered): done
block-
boiled: done
primered: done
checked for specs: done all GOOD (gasket surfaces smoothed by machine shop)
helicoiled bad hole after stud removed: done
head: need re-ring kit for valve stem seals for shop to install after disassemble, boil,lapping
timing chain: NEED
timing cover: need to finish cleaning
rear seal: NEED
front seal: NEED
upgrade of cam: maybe.. need info on yotashop.com thread - no replies - want RV type 1 cam perf + fuel econ improvement?
other-
need passenger arm rest/door handle
remove L trim on top for cleaning an repair (possible powder coat for durability)
sand repaint top
repair tear in seat
" " " pass rear side panel
" " " headliner
" crack " passenger plastic panel in cargo area
replace all interior lights with LED's
add floor lighting strips under dash
add fog lights
SR5 cluster - arrived fully paid for need clean an maintenance
likely more to add to the list
Last edited by Cyberhorn The Dragon; Sep 22, 2012 at 10:50 AM.
#199
MY PLEASURE, Sir!
Hopefully you'll have them .....tomorrow? That'd be nice!
x3 on the HOLY CRAPULAFANTASTICA! HAHA... Now that's a LIST and a corresponding 'LOTS DONE!' to go with it! Dang! Giving me a complex, man
lol.
Hopefully you'll have them .....tomorrow? That'd be nice!
x3 on the HOLY CRAPULAFANTASTICA! HAHA... Now that's a LIST and a corresponding 'LOTS DONE!' to go with it! Dang! Giving me a complex, man
lol.
#200
well chef i could shorten the list to OMG its not done!! lol but thank you! very much for the cone washers im on short rations right now the dust shields will eat what ive got left be 3rd next month before i can do much of anything again


