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Nice! Can't wait to see this completed.
BTW, pls see how much weight you were able to remove from the tailgate.
Also, if you think the glass would be a good template for a flip-up glass (so it could sit almost flush on the cap lip), pls trace on kraft paper for future reference.
Ed - here's what I'm thinking for the dimensions. I cut a piece of cardboard and tried this out and it should work. The single door will allow access to all 3 holes for max storage and ability to get to the stuff. I think 2 latches would be smart, but I haven't quite decided on which latches yet, they need to be recessed so stuff can slide over them, so probably those boat type latches will be ideal. Hinge on the bottom (bottom being nearest tailgate hinge), and I don't know if HAS to be a hinge, might be ok with being just a tongue like the cargo doors are.
Nice! Can't wait to see this completed.
BTW, pls see how much weight you were able to remove from the tailgate.
Also, if you think the glass would be a good template for a flip-up glass (so it could sit almost flush on the cap lip), pls trace on kraft paper for future reference.
Ray - sure I can weigh everything I removed. I will say this, the glass has a slight curve to it (from top to bottom), I can certainly trace it for overall guidance. I can trace it and mail you the paper if that's what you'd like.
So I still want to pull the entire mechanism back out and paint the brackets, get everything all cleaned up and looking decent. I'll take some detailed measurements of everything in case anybody wants to duplicate, I'm assuming Ray you'll want to make some similar bracketry. I removed the window weatherstripping that was on the slot in the top of the tailgate, and so now that opening bothers me, I'd like to come up with something to close that off as well.
...you have to have the key buzzer hooked up for the dome to come on. Looked up there and of course I see the plug hanging, but no buzzer. Finally found one in the Classifieds and grabbed it. Lo and behold, dome now works with driver door. Key buzzer too...
Ed - here's what I'm thinking for the dimensions. I cut a piece of cardboard and tried this out and it should work. The single door will allow access to all 3 holes for max storage and ability to get to the stuff. I think 2 latches would be smart, but I haven't quite decided on which latches yet, they need to be recessed so stuff can slide over them, so probably those boat type latches will be ideal. Hinge on the bottom (bottom being nearest tailgate hinge), and I don't know if HAS to be a hinge, might be ok with being just a tongue like the cargo doors are.
Sounds good Cory, shouldn't be a problem. Your drawing almost looks like a tailgate I'm currently working on, without the center insert attached.
Tonight I weighed the items I removed from tailgate.
Regulator and motor: 6.6lbs
Inner tailgate panel: 3.2lbs
Glass:13.6lbs
The carpeted trim is back on otherwise I would have weighed it as well. Total weight removed is 23.4lbs, minus whatever the new panel weighs. I'm sure it will be a net savings of over 20lbs.
My birthday was a little over a week ago. I normally ask for truck related stuff, but didn't this year... So today I felt like buying something for the 4runner...
... . I'm sure it will be a net savings of over 20lbs.
Cool! Better carry 20 pounds worth of essentials than that stupid roll-up window - a cheesy attempt to make an otherwise spartan truck sound like luxury vehicle.
I like those corner turn signals, man! What bulb does the turn signal use?
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Feb 18, 2018 at 05:37 PM.
Cool! Better carry 20 pounds worth of essentials than that stupid roll-up window - a cheesy attempt to make an otherwise spartan truck sound like luxury vehicle.
I like those corner turn signals, man! What bulb does the turn signal use?
i hope it works out. those get some horrible reviews, ie, very cheaply made. from pictures, the two socket recesses in each assembly are the same dimension/shape/size, which won't work with the factory socket/bulb assembly without modification.
Received the corner lenses from Thailand today. Overall there are some minor issues, the holes for the light sockets were a bit rough, I had to file them and put a slot in there for the factory corner light to fit. Also head to drill out couple of the mounting holes, but hey, for 30 shipped, I like them. I still have to figure out how I'm going to handle the turn signals, so for now only the marker light is hooked up. The marker lens is clear on these, but w while back I bought some Amber LEDs on Amazon.
... I still have to figure out how I'm going to handle the turn signals...
... The marker lens is clear on these, but w while back I bought some Amber LEDs on Amazon.
I would just wire turns in parallel with the ones in the bumper. What bulbs go in the turn signals?
IF eliminating bumper turns (i.e., to put fog lights there), I would install an additional LED bulb in the new corner housing to make it as bright as bumper turn signals (1156 @ around 26W).
Amber LED behind clear lens is actually the most efficient; More efficient than putting colored or white LED behind colored lens.
Ray - yeah I'll probably just wire the new corner turn signals in parallel with the existing bumper mounted turn signals. The holes in the new housing for the turn signals look identical to the holes for the corner markers, so I think it will accept the same 194 socket, now I just have to get some 194 sockets.
SomedayJ - well yours look like factory Toyota, at least they say Toyota on the back of them. Mine are cheap aftermarkets from Thailand. BTW, what country are you in? In your truck, are those "pink" lights also turn signals? If so, do they blink in unison with your bumper mounted turn signals?
SomedayJ - well yours look like factory Toyota, at least they say Toyota on the back of them. Mine are cheap aftermarkets from Thailand. BTW, what country are you in? In your truck, are those "pink" lights also turn signals? If so, do they blink in unison with your bumper mounted turn signals?
My 4R came from Germany. The corner turn signals don't blink in unison with the bumper turn signal ones, in fact, the holes came blocked with a rubber piece/plug (see photo attached). I'd like to wire them in parallel as RAD suggested.
My 4R came from Germany. The corner turn signals don't blink in unison with the bumper turn signal ones, in fact, the holes came blocked with a rubber piece/plug (see photo attached). I'd like to wire them in parallel as RAD suggested.
The plugged hole is behind the pink / corner-facing light, correct? Yes, put a 194 or 921 LED in there and connect in parallel with the bumper turn signal.
Front facing will be marker light, side facing will be turn signal.
or... IF YOU USE INCANDESCENT FOR BUMPER TURN SIGNAL, we can wire so BOTH bulbs in the corner housing will be markers, but will blink alternately with turn signals, KINDA like the way MY side-facing marker lights / turn signals are wired now
Enhanced visibility when turning / changing lanes...
Feb 10, 2018 | 10:53 AM
