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As Wally illustrated above, this was my problem. The dome light wont function from the drivers side if the buzzer is missing or unplugged. Someone got sick of listening to to key buzzer and yanked it. It is an "AND" circuit. Key in AND door open = BUZZ. No buzzer in the ckt means no ground from drivers door to dome light circuitry.
would it be possible that the wiring path for the dome circuit passes through the connector of the key buzzer, yet isn't a part of the buzzer circuit? and by removing the buzzer, the dome circuit is interrupted?
would it be possible that the wiring path for the dome circuit passes through the connector of the key buzzer, yet isn't a part of the buzzer circuit? and by removing the buzzer, the dome circuit is interrupted?
Don't think so. (Key buzzer relay is not shown in schematic.)
According to schematic, Seatbelt reminder relay and Light reminder relay, and dome light DEPEND ON door switch.
However, completing dome switch circuit to ground does not depend on key buzzer nor seatbelt reminder relay.
Answering the questions below may help Charles4x4 solve his problem without buying anything...
If you remove the courtesy light bulbs you lose the 12V at that female connector, YES?
By "nothing happens" you mean nothing happens TO THE DOME LIGHT, but something happens to the courtesy light, YES?
If I get both YES' above^^^, I'm pretty sure the diode shown below OR the wires connecting it is bad.
ray, it may not show in the schematic, but i am 100% certain that unplugging the buzzer interrupts the function of the drivers-door-open-light-on. the passenger door switch will still trigger the dome light on.
i unplugged the buzzer connector (7 wires), and the dome light stopped lighting with an open drivers door. plugged the connector back in and restored that function.
ray, it may not show in the schematic, but i am 100% certain that unplugging the buzzer interrupts the function of the drivers-door-open-light-on. the passenger door switch will still trigger the dome light on.
i unplugged the buzzer connector (7 wires), and the dome light stopped lighting with an open drivers door. plugged the connector back in and restored that function.
Hmm... So, yes, there could be an interrupt and it could be that diode (with illumination package) that I did not encircle. That diode could be inside the illumination package / buzzer module but not clearly stated in schematic.
To verify this AND NOT HAVE TO BUY ANYTHING, Charles4x4 can do this quick test:
1) Dome light switch to door control mode, all doors closed.
2) Find black wire at dome light module.
a) Check that the black wire has12V when both doors are closed, and stay 12V when driver side door is opened.
b) Check that black wire will lose 12V when dome and map light bulbs are removed.
c) Check that black wire will go to Zero volt when passenger side is opened. d) If all 3^^^ check yes, replace dome light bulb and jump that black wire to ground. Does dome light turn on?
e) If d is yes, connect that black wire to male connector that goes to driver side door switch.
g) Have a beer
Wallytoo and folks,
Got wire colors for the buzzer pin-outs?
IF anyone has a buzzer relay out of the truck let's figure out where that interrupt is for future reference.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 11-06-2017 at 08:31 AM.
The schematic in my 1986 shop manual is somewhat different than yours. No diode shown on the driver's side. And power clearly coming through "seat belt warning relay"
Last edited by Melrose 4r; 11-06-2017 at 12:45 PM.
The schematic in my 1986 shop manual is somewhat different than yours. No diode shown on the driver's side. And power clearly coming through "seat belt warning relay"
Thanks, Thomas.
AHA! So the "missing diode" that I encircled in red connects between R-W and R wires is the one that is INTERNAL TO THE seat belt warning relay.
Charles4x4 TRE needs the relay to be connected in order to connect R-W wire to R wire which goes to the door switch, OR charles4x4 can wire a stand-alone diode between R-W and R wire that goes to door switch. No need for seat belt warning relay that people want to disable anyway
Power from dome switch to seat belt warning relay is to power that relay, not the dome circuit.
Power to dome circuit goes directly from dome fuse to positive side of dome light.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 11-08-2017 at 08:58 AM.
The buzzer box came in today. I plugged it in and the buzzer immediately came on (drivers door was open) and the Dome Light works! The buzzer is a little annoying, but I'll live with it until I decide to open it up and put paper between the buzzer device and contact thing to keep it quiet.
Awesome!
To help others in the future...
Where did the relay connect to?
Would you happen to have picture of connector pin-outs showing wire colors?
There are two reasons for the buzz:
1) Seat belt reminder - even if you already have the good habit of putting it on.
2) Key left in ignition when leaving the truck.
I hate (1) because I don't need the reminder. I'm OK with (2) because sometimes I forget.
To get rid of (2) just disconnect the connector to the seat belt buckle under the driver's seat. Done.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 11-08-2017 at 06:57 PM.
I hope it's ok to politely highjack since everyone is here all ready,,,lol.
So I have the same issue, kinda.
My dome light didn't work at all when I just got this truck. I took it down and cleaned all the contacts on the switch. I now have a light when in the "ON" position. But no other time.
My key buzzer buzzes, but no seat belt buzzer. Are they one in the same. And I can get the buzzer to go on and off with the drivers side door jamb switch. So that tells me that switch is working. Right?
I hope it's ok to politely highjack since everyone is here all ready,,,lol.
So I have the same issue, kinda.
My dome light didn't work at all when I just got this truck. I took it down and cleaned all the contacts on the switch. I now have a light when in the "ON" position. But no other time.
My key buzzer buzzes, but no seat belt buzzer. Are they one in the same. And I can get the buzzer to go on and off with the drivers side door jamb switch. So that tells me that switch is working. Right?
Any ideas.
If the switch triggers the buzzer on and off. And the light works when On, maybe there is something wrong with the dome light’s Door mode? Or there is an issue with the wiring somewhere between the buzzer and the dome light (which I think will be hard to trace). Note the dome light has two plug contacts and individual electrical nodes for each of the 3 modes - maybe Door Jose is messed up (use a MM to test the modes) - much easier of a fix than tracing the wiring. Or grab one off a ‘85+ Toyota (Camry, etc) from a hunk yard and test it that way of fixing the Door mode Contacts doesn’t work.
If the switch triggers the buzzer on and off. And the light works when On, maybe there is something wrong with the dome light’s Door mode? Or there is an issue with the wiring somewhere between the buzzer and the dome light (which I think will be hard to trace). Note the dome light has two plug contacts and individual electrical nodes for each of the 3 modes - maybe Door Jose is messed up (use a MM to test the modes) - much easier of a fix than tracing the wiring. Or grab one off a ‘85+ Toyota (Camry, etc) from a hunk yard and test it that way of fixing the Door mode Contacts doesn’t work.
I found the problem. Like you said. It's the dome lights door mode itself. Where the metal contacts are riveted to the plastic housing, the rivet is coming out of the plastic. I could probably fix it. But like you said, I just grabbed a little nicer one. Mine was just plain so I got one with the night time flip down lever for bright lights.
I'm going to go ahead and post this picture in case anyone else runs into this issue.
Buzzer Sounding With key in ignition IN ALL conditions.
My turn- LOL!
When we were touring/camping on the Sonoma Coast this weekend, my buzzer started sounding whenever the key is in the ignition even when door was closed, and even when the engine was running.
Also, even when door was closed, the dome light glowed dimly. I have the buzzer disconnected now.
Since I bought the truck in 2012, I could hear a faint beeping (like you'd hear during a hearing test) whenever the key was in the ignition in accessory position.
All of the above leads me to suspect that there is leakage path to ground inside the buzzer module. Will open it up when I get the time and report back.
Originally Posted by wallytoo
...unplugging the buzzer interrupts the function of the drivers-door-open-light-on. the passenger door switch will still trigger the dome light on....
Yes, I unplugged the buzzer and driver side door now does not turn on the dome light.
I'll report back what I find out.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-22-2018 at 09:22 PM.
Remove Buzzer, Replace With Diode, Keep Dome Light Working
HAH!
I do not need a reminder to put on my seatbelt, I find the "key in ignition" buzzer annoying, and I already have the rad4runner anti-lock-out device, so...
VERIFY...
THE DIODE BELOW WILL TAKE THE PLACE OF THE DIODE INTERNAL TO THE BUZZER
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 02-11-2018 at 11:04 PM.
I do not need a reminder to put on my seatbelt, I find the "key in ignition" buzzer annoying, and I already have the rad4runner anti-lock-out device, so...
VERIFY...
THE DIODE BELOW WILL TAKE THE PLACE OF THE DIODE INTERNAL TO THE BUZZER
Cool modification Ray!
I might be that one weird person on this forum who doesn't like the tone of the 1984-1988/1989 buzzers but find the buzzer out of a 1989/1990-1995 Truck/4Runner comforting. It must be from the 1990 Xtra cab my dad had when I was growing up.
I don't like that my buzzer changes pitch. Toyota fixed that with the next generation of Trucks and 4Runners with a lower pitched buzzer that stays the same pitch!
You can call me crazy , but I have actually thought about swapping in a buzzer module from a 1989/1990-1995 Truck/4Runner into my 1987 Truck. I really haven't looked into the wiring and pin-out differences yet. Other projects are much higher on the priority list.
... but find the buzzer out of a 1989/1990-1995 Truck/4Runner comforting. It must be from the 1990 Xtra cab my dad had when I was growing up....
...You can call me crazy , but I have actually thought about swapping in a buzzer module from a 1989/1990-1995 Truck/4Runner into my 1987 Truck...
Thanks, Jake!
Almost reminds me of wanting the sound of vacuum tubes instead of transistors.
LOL! Not unusual at all though; I also like to hear chime like the one before they make P.A. announcements at airports; reminds me of vacations
Re pin-outs, yeah, Toyota schematics are so mixed-up even among trucks of same year. Wire colors for buzzer and door courtesy switch on mine does not match the schematic on Toyota Printed FSM. It matches 1988's pdf though.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 02-12-2018 at 12:00 AM.
Thanks, Jake!
Almost reminds me of wanting the sound of vacuum tubes instead of transistors.
It's the warm audiophile tube sound!
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
LOL! Not unusual at all though; I also like to hear chime like the one before they make P.A. announcements at airports; reminds me of vacations
Re pin-outs, yeah, Toyota schematics are so mixed-up even among trucks of same year. Wire colors for buzzer and door courtesy switch on mine does not match the schematic on Toyota Printed FSM. It matches 1988's pdf though.
My high school had that airport chime as the class dismissal bell.
I will probably end up going to the salvage yard with a mulitmeter and a few schematics and trace out what wire goes where. Then I will compare against what I have on my truck.
11-06-2017, 04:25 AM
, but I have actually thought about swapping in a buzzer module from a 1989/1990-1995 Truck/4Runner into my 1987 Truck. I really haven't looked into the wiring and pin-out differences yet. Other projects are much higher on the priority list.
