Glad I could help. I am waiting another hour to get out and get to work. Still cold here. Atleast I dont have to deal with that annoying buzzer now so I got something done.

 

Wish I could send you up some of out weather down here. Sunny and warm.

 

By the way now that you sent me over the numbers you have on that diode, it comes back and tells me that its a 12v Zener Diode, checking further into it

 

Good AM. So either way you measure across Diode #3 you're reading "OL" in ohms setting? "OL" Means Over Load or Out of Range, meaning it is open either way. If correct, then, yes that diode is bad.
Hopefully Terry can find the part number. If not, I'm sure that's just a general purpose diode. Just replace it with Radioshack one. Either this (1-amp) or this (3-amp capacity), whichever is a better physical fit and will handle total power rating of dome and other interior lights when turned on at same time.
1-amp will handle 12 watts of total interior lights
3-amp will handle 36 watts of total interior lights


Re Disabling the Buzzer:
I do not need a reminder to put on my seatbelt, and that buzz is really annoying. However, I do want the "Key left in Ignition" warning, so I did not do the buzzer defeat.

Here's how to disable the seatbelt warning.

 

Thanks RAD4Runner That helps out a lot. I will see about picking on up this week. The door buzzer is annoying sometimes. Thanks for posting the link to the seat belt quite mod. or should it be buzz kill....

 

Always a pleasure to help my Yota Brothers
With buzzer totally stock, you would:

Get the key left in ignition buzz Only IF key is in and door is opened. This does not happen very often

Always get the seatbelt buzz as soon as you turn ignition on, and you have not buckled your seatbelt, yet . That's the part that annoys me, because I like to start engine first, Then do all my adjustments to seat, mirror, bags, radio; Better for the engine because above gives it a few seconds to warm up before I put it in gear.

 

Been busy these days so no time to work on the runner, so there hasn't been any updates lately. Well, while time has passed, i have been receiving some of those LED lights I've been paying for so far here is what i got.



So far what you see here I paid a few pennies less than $16. Not to shabby if you ask me. 45' of LED light strips (non-waterproof) enough to do both 4runners. The dome light is a plus, it's got 48 SMD LED lights those little square LEDs and they light up the inside like day light. Now I have stuff to work with, but little time.

 

Disco Runner! -

Mind posting link where you bought your dome light? Thanks a lot and have fun with the upgrades.

 

Hey all been busy with so many other things, I haven't given the time of day to my truck. A little change is coming my way I think. I was up in the Daytona area with a friend of mine who has this guy restoring a 1972 AMC Javelin. I will post pictures later showing what has been done to the car so far, plus some of the other cars this guy is restoring.

 

Looking forward to pics. I like to hang out on other sites that do restores from trucks to hot rods. Nothing like breaking one down to nothing and bringing it back up.

I have never used a newer distributor on an older truck. I didnt realize they changed the plugs on them. I am curious as to what you make out on your post as well.

 

Terry as promised here are some pics of the Javelin:







The parts that were painted were stripped down to bare metal. The rusted out parts cut out and new sheet metal welded in place. the part that is tough it going to bare metal. This past week we spent getting the some of the front parts down to bare metal. Instead of sanding it down to bare metal the guy wanted to use airplane stripper. Works great, but don't do it in the sun. Dries to quick. Since the engine wasn't going to be pulled, I sanded out some of the engine bay, but the guy said he was going to sand blast it.

The paint job looks really good, he layered a pound of clear on there and then sanded 400, 1000, 1500 and last 2000 grit then buffed it. Looks really glossy and polished. very nice and hard shell paint job. if you want to see some of the body work and the sanding down to bare metal, i can get that from my buddy and post them just let me know.

 

Additionally the guys has all these cars he's working on. I think he's over booked himself.

This was a Bently restored custom job... Someone has to have $ to do this I think he said it was over $$$,$$$.$$




This is a bugeye I think a 1959 or 1960 (Austin Healey Bugeye) This is a nice car he is going to restore. I think my buddy is interested in this.



this is a hot rod he is custom building for someone.


This is a corvette he is working on as well


And then there is this that he will be working on too, which is one of my favorites a 1966/67 camaro


Here is a Mustang which is really nice I forgot the history of this one has something to do with a race care driver or something.




These are all great cars and his work is very clean and nice. The interior of the cars with the exception of the bently was incomplete. I can't image were he will find the time to finish all these cars. A couple of the cars/hot rods he completed came by during the time I was up there and there were sweet. custom interior, dash seats, etc... really clean and nice looks like factory work. Cars that are completely stripped he sends out to be chemically dipped to remove the paint, rust just about everything.

 

I love this thread even more.


I could hang out in that shop all day happy even without a beer.

 

Thanks Red Wagon, I say the same thing. the only problem is the guy working on these cars he's a one man show and he's so hard to deal with and that's why I'm assuming he's a one man show. The cars he puts out are awesome he had another mustang under a cover as well and 2 more cars i don't have a clue as to what they were. He has kind of a eccentric behavior.

 

By the way while I was up there I picked up a brand new CV joint for $30 bucks. The guy closed his garage and was selling things he had left over from his shop. I take some pics of if later and post it.

I also picked up a pair of nerf bars the ones everybody hates. I have always like steps on the truck as getting in some time wears the seats when you don't have that lift before seating. Couldn't beat the price of $15, just got to clean them up and paint them. Pics come later on them too.

 

Okay I forgot totake a picture of the CV joint I picked up, I'll do that tomorrow.

Here's a picture of the nerf bars I picked up this past week.



I thought it was kind of rusty in spots, but I was considerably wrong. It seems that the manufacture may have painted the bar when it was partially rusted and didn't prime it. The paint was peeling off, I started out wire wheeling it with my drill and that would take a heck of a lot time to get through an inch. I ended up grinding it, but will end up air sanding it down. When you strip the paint down, you can see rust under there in places that don't even look to have rust because it hasn't blistered yet.

Here's a pic of what I ground down.

 

That javelin is a beauty!!

 

Never realized how much a Corvette looks like a Shelby in its bare form. I would be proud to live in that guys shop and watch the work he does. Looks like the nerf bars are cleaning up nicely, hope the rust didnt get to carried away.

 

Gizler, yeah when my buddy bought it 2 years ago he never thought he'd have to wait this long to drive it. He wants to sell it now and see if he could get cut his loses, but I think I've convinced him to hold on to it for a while. Yesterday I think the guy convinced my buddy to pull the motor and tranny to sand blast the engine bay and paint it. Why not right, the rest of the car has been stripped, of everything including all electrical which will be redone with all new wiring, I was there when the wire was cut up and pulled.

Terry, That is a custom car he's working on. He seems to be a fanatic for corvettes and he has a bunch of them in his back yard. I think that one is for himself because a year ago it was there as well.

 

Here's the CV joint I picked up still in the package, the guy said the box got water damaged. could refuse to get it since it was only $30 sealed in the plastic.