Can I convince you to make it some time after April 20th? That is my anniversary date at work and when I get my vacation time.

 

19. Headlights need replacing as they are dull and the passenger side has burned out (Remove/Replace)

Finally got time to put in my new headlights

New on the left and old on the right:



All done:



They are indeed a vast improvement over the Sylvania ones that were in there before. A very crisp white light that goes much further as well.

 

Looks good! I'm definately going to have to add those to my list!!!

 

Looks good. I really want to upgrade mine as well.

 

Its easy to do fellas. Took me about 45 mins total.

 

Do you guys think I can run 35s with my current setup?

 

hmm that could be an issue since i have to use up some PTO by end of Q1, we will probably go again in the fall though....
headlights look good. I went with the silverstars, they're cheaper and WAY better than stock but may not be as good as those fancy Marlin ones
http://www.autozone.com/collision-bo..._167897_18273/

 

Bummer. Oh well maybe the fall run instead.

 

Taking my club to Reiter ORV on Saturday. Going to try and get some things done before then:

1. Finally get some differential breathers installed and routed.
2. Do the trailer hitch pin trick that you told me about LOR for my torque rod.
3. Remove the rest of my sway bar hardware seeing as it is simply just added weight for nothing at this point.
4. Get a tree saver and snatch block from 4wheel parts or Amazon so that I can use my new winch without wrecking mother nature.

 

not without moving your front axle forward. i rubbed the firewall on 33's when my axle was in stock position. when you disconnect the torque rod, i bet you will too. i suppose its possible if you put in some massive bumpstops to limit your uptravel

 

Why will disconnecting the torque rod cause rub? If it does then what is the advantage of disconnecting it?

 

I was going to suggest moving your front axel forward also, but liveoffroad beat me to it lol. I think your current lift has enough clearance to run 35's but like liveoffroad already stated, your front tires when flexing out the suspension are going to stuff in the back of the fender wheel well/firewall area. If you are planning to do hi-steer down the road, that would be the perfect time to move your front axel forward, since your going to have to mount an IFS steering box anyway. You could do a RUF spring pack on the cheap, or combined your existing front springs with some RUF springs and make a hybrid leaf pack. You'll need a front spring hanger and move it a little forward of the stock location to accomadate the longer springs, but the extra work is well worth it for the added tire clearance, longer wheelbase, and better front approach angle.

 

So we are talking about purely a problem in the front correct? I was under the impression that I could just pound down that little pinch weld in the back of the front fender and then it wouldn't be a problem? I do plan on moving my axle forward when I have the all-pro extreme lift kit installed but that is a couple of months down the road.

 

it will give you more flex, both in droop and uptravel but as stated, the uptravel will cause the tires to rub on the firewall

The pinch weld won't get you enough clearance. under full stuff, the tire will hit the firewall pretty hard. Just to give you an idea, i've hammered the pinch weld on mine, plus moved the axle forward 2" and my 35's will STILL hit the firewall under full stuff if the wheel is turned very much.
Yes the back will be no problem, my 35's stuff nicely in the rear fenders with no contact. are you running wheel spacers?

also, ed was right on everything except it is POSSIBLE to run RUF sprins without having to redo the front spring hanger, cuz i am haha. You will have to get longer shackles though to account for the extra length, and i had to cut a slot in the body mounts to clear them. however, there's a clear strength advantage and also you can move the axle forward another 1/2-1" if you do the front spring hanager like Ed said

 

So the 4" lift I have is doing nothing for me except making me more prone to flopping pretty much?

 

Sorry I probably got a little ahead of myself, lol. Yeah you can try pounding in the pinch weld, I've heard it helps. It might gain you the added clearance you need to run 35's until you do your AllPro lift. I think you should be ok in the back since yours is an 85'... mine beings its an 86' and having the ifs rear axel with 15x10" wheels with 4" backspacing I tend to make a little contact with the wheel well when the tire is completely stuffed.


Sounds like you have some goodies planned for down the road, I'm pretty happy with AllPro's rear lift kit, I'm sure the front extreme lift kit is just as good, and that you'll be happy with it! What tires are you thinking of getting when you move up to 35's?

 

I'm torn between going the boring route that everyone takes (KM2s) and the Nitto Trail Grapplers. I'm open to suggestions however.

 

So my next project is going to be on board air. I'm considering one of two routes:

The first is the ExtremeAire 12v compressor from Extreme Outback. It is probably without a doubt the finest quality 12v compressor for OBA you can buy. However it comes with a price tag that reflects this. I would be looking at roughly $650 with a tank and all the goodies to get the job done.

The second is to use an AC compressor. I have been able to find the stock AC compressor for the 3RZ for $60 - $100 locally. However for the life of me I can't find what kind of output it puts out or whether or not it would be a good choice for OBA. This compressor would be ideal obviously because it will mount right up without a need for a custom bracket. The other option is to take the traditional York route however finding one of those locally has been a pain and it would require a custom bracket to be made.

Would love to hear from you fellas on which route you think I should take and any advice regarding OBA in general. Thanks!

 

Idon't think that a York setup would cost $650 even if you had to pay someone to fab the bracket for you. You can use a sanden (factory) style compressor, but you will have to run an oiler because that style relies on the lubricant in the refrigerant to lubricate it. This is why so many people use the York. And they also kick the a$$ of any electric pump. If you want to run air tools you will need something that really puts out air. Oasis manufacturing is the only one I know of that can keep up with air tools, because it a huge custom built winch style motor directly coupled to a York compressor. I am working on my York setup right now. I found one in my buddies recycle pile after getting back from Rieter. I have a guy in the UK machining an extra pully onto a factory deisel pully for me. As soon as it gets here I will be in buisness.

 

Thanks for the reply Nate. You misunderstood my post. The $650 option is for a 12v compressor from these guys: www.extremeoutback.com this one to be exact: http://www.extremeoutback.com/produc...3+007-000.html

The factory compressor for the 3RZ is actually a Denso. I am leaning more and more towards a york or sanden though as I do more and more research into this. Give me a call later so we can chat about this!