What is broken on YOUR Toyota
Jul 11, 2012 | 11:53 AM
#901
Sparks.... Another check you can do is to pull the TPS Connector(don't lose that spring retainer/clip).... If it doesn't idle up when pulling the TPS, the TPS could either be bad or need adjustment, at least.
I'm not POSITIVE, ...but I think when you jump the timing and the idle doesn't change... that's another sign that the TPS is off/bad. Does the idle change/Drop, when you jump the connectors?
I'm not POSITIVE, ...but I think when you jump the timing and the idle doesn't change... that's another sign that the TPS is off/bad. Does the idle change/Drop, when you jump the connectors?
Jul 12, 2012 | 04:13 AM
#902
It's been a while since I did it, but I don't think there was a change in the idle when it was jumped. I'll check it again this weekend and make sure. I've checked to make sure the AFM was still within specs and it is. I also tried to check the TPS before according to my Haynes repair manual. I don't remember the exact size of feeler gauge it says to use at the throttle stop screw, but I don't even see a throttle stop screw. It comes all the way around and hits the dashpot. And after thinking about it for a little while (and reading up on what the dashpot is there for) I don't understand why it would need a throttle stop screw. maybe I just don't understand it or need a different explanation than what my book is giving me. I'll take a picture this afternoon of what I'm talking about and post it tomorrow.
Jul 12, 2012 | 12:11 PM
#904
It's been a while since I did it, but I don't think there was a change in the idle when it was jumped. I'll check it again this weekend and make sure. I've checked to make sure the AFM was still within specs and it is. I also tried to check the TPS before according to my Haynes repair manual. I don't remember the exact size of feeler gauge it says to use at the throttle stop screw, but I don't even see a throttle stop screw. It comes all the way around and hits the dashpot. And after thinking about it for a little while (and reading up on what the dashpot is there for) I don't understand why it would need a throttle stop screw. maybe I just don't understand it or need a different explanation than what my book is giving me. I'll take a picture this afternoon of what I'm talking about and post it tomorrow.
Read through this REALLY well... I missed several things as I was urgently reading through it hoping to find my issue... I DID have a suspect TPS, replaced it... but ended up that I just hadn't adjusted the Throttle Stop Screw BEFORE adjusting the TPS, as 4crawler points out 'IS VERY IMPORTANT to do first, before adjusting anything'....
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
If you click on that left of 3 pics, with the 'feeler gauge placement', you'll see that the throttle stop screw is not the dash pot... The dash pot only slows down the throttle plate closing... Slamming shut can cause problems. Also, the throttle plate stop screw adjustment is VERY important... because it keeps the throttle plate inside the throttle body from closing FULLY... which stops almost all the air flow, making it really chunky at idle/making it an 'inaccurate adjustment of the TPS', because the TPS needs to be adjusted AFTER you adjust the stop screw... That adjustment of the stop screw is also in this tutorial... in the link. You basically break loose the lock nut.... then screw the bolt down until it touches the stop plate..... then another 1/4 turn(?)... This adjustment forces the throttle plate to never fully shut.... Allowing JUST enough air at idle for the proper fuel/air ratio and to allow the TPS to not be at it's limits of adjustment. When I adjusted the stop screw... my readings on the TPS DRAMATICALLY changed. Also, just get CLOSE with the feelers... doesn't have to be EXACT... Try to get within a couple thousandths.
Here's the stop screw(this pic is in that link...
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/tps4.jpg
Jul 12, 2012 | 12:14 PM
#905
Well, .... for 12 years, I've had NO #1 setting on my Heat/AC blower motor lever... Ordered the Blower Motor Resistor from www.RockAuto.com and I'll be blowing LOW when needed in no time
It's in the mail/shipped. 9$ with coupon I get in the email, monthly. 
I needed this, because on #2 setting, with fully charged R12... it's a bit too much at times, to be honest... TOO cool/Plus, .........it's wasting power and I would imagine demand on the compressor, right? So why not fix it. PLUS< ... I wanna have pretty much NOTHING broken on my Toyota, eventually! .... It IS possible, right? Please tell me yes? hahaha.
It's in the mail/shipped. 9$ with coupon I get in the email, monthly. I needed this, because on #2 setting, with fully charged R12... it's a bit too much at times, to be honest... TOO cool/Plus, .........it's wasting power and I would imagine demand on the compressor, right? So why not fix it. PLUS< ... I wanna have pretty much NOTHING broken on my Toyota, eventually! .... It IS possible, right? Please tell me yes? hahaha.
Jul 12, 2012 | 03:51 PM
#906
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: CT
1988 4runner...22re...fuse for all gauges and blinkers blew on saturday, replaced and just blew again...alternator went on wednesday(maybe cause of fuses blowing?) ...bought alternator, made the "while I'm in there and doing stuff" choice. Bought new radiator, hoses, belts and thermostat. started pulling off hoses and belts tonight(thursday) everything was going too smoothly, new issue...broken thermostat cover bolts! have no idea how i gonna get them out, they're not in an easy to get at spot! o yeah, and rear window doesn't work. thank you for your time, I'm gonna go stare at those bolts for the last hour of daylight we have today and see if they will come out on their own.
Jul 12, 2012 | 04:41 PM
#907
2+2,.... that sux! I know I've seen 2 or 3 threads on either here or "P$*&#TE".com hahaha... explaining how they got them out. Worst case, if the housing cracks getting them out... gotta pull the intake(I know, I know... OUCH!) BUT, I would think there's room in there to tap/helicoil that out?
PS> I've also seen lots of threads explaining 'dash lights blew out'.... which IIRC, more often than otherwise wound up being a open wire near the steering wheel or some other short up in there. There's some interesting ones out there, like "The guy who kept blowing brake lights, which ended up being the trailer wiring had submerged in muddy snow and totally shorted out the brake lights over and over, each time he applied the brakes"... Give it a good search and you'll find a good POE that you can run down until you find it. Lot's of good electronics guys on here, ya know?
Start a thread yet?
PS> I've also seen lots of threads explaining 'dash lights blew out'.... which IIRC, more often than otherwise wound up being a open wire near the steering wheel or some other short up in there. There's some interesting ones out there, like "The guy who kept blowing brake lights, which ended up being the trailer wiring had submerged in muddy snow and totally shorted out the brake lights over and over, each time he applied the brakes"... Give it a good search and you'll find a good POE that you can run down until you find it. Lot's of good electronics guys on here, ya know?
Start a thread yet?
Jul 13, 2012 | 03:58 AM
#911
Read through this REALLY well... I missed several things as I was urgently reading through it hoping to find my issue... I DID have a suspect TPS, replaced it... but ended up that I just hadn't adjusted the Throttle Stop Screw BEFORE adjusting the TPS, as 4crawler points out 'IS VERY IMPORTANT to do first, before adjusting anything'....
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
If you click on that left of 3 pics, with the 'feeler gauge placement', you'll see that the throttle stop screw is not the dash pot... The dash pot only slows down the throttle plate closing... Slamming shut can cause problems. Also, the throttle plate stop screw adjustment is VERY important... because it keeps the throttle plate inside the throttle body from closing FULLY... which stops almost all the air flow, making it really chunky at idle/making it an 'inaccurate adjustment of the TPS', because the TPS needs to be adjusted AFTER you adjust the stop screw... That adjustment of the stop screw is also in this tutorial... in the link. You basically break loose the lock nut.... then screw the bolt down until it touches the stop plate..... then another 1/4 turn(?)... This adjustment forces the throttle plate to never fully shut.... Allowing JUST enough air at idle for the proper fuel/air ratio and to allow the TPS to not be at it's limits of adjustment. When I adjusted the stop screw... my readings on the TPS DRAMATICALLY changed. Also, just get CLOSE with the feelers... doesn't have to be EXACT... Try to get within a couple thousandths.
Here's the stop screw(this pic is in that link...
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/tps4.jpg
Thanks for the link. I had seen that before but I couldn't remember where. Got it printed out and bookmarked now tho. I knew from reading that there should be a stop screw and the dashpot wasn't the only part needed there, i just didn't see a stop screw on my throttle body. I'll look again.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
If you click on that left of 3 pics, with the 'feeler gauge placement', you'll see that the throttle stop screw is not the dash pot... The dash pot only slows down the throttle plate closing... Slamming shut can cause problems. Also, the throttle plate stop screw adjustment is VERY important... because it keeps the throttle plate inside the throttle body from closing FULLY... which stops almost all the air flow, making it really chunky at idle/making it an 'inaccurate adjustment of the TPS', because the TPS needs to be adjusted AFTER you adjust the stop screw... That adjustment of the stop screw is also in this tutorial... in the link. You basically break loose the lock nut.... then screw the bolt down until it touches the stop plate..... then another 1/4 turn(?)... This adjustment forces the throttle plate to never fully shut.... Allowing JUST enough air at idle for the proper fuel/air ratio and to allow the TPS to not be at it's limits of adjustment. When I adjusted the stop screw... my readings on the TPS DRAMATICALLY changed. Also, just get CLOSE with the feelers... doesn't have to be EXACT... Try to get within a couple thousandths.
Here's the stop screw(this pic is in that link...
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/tps4.jpg
Thanks for the link. I had seen that before but I couldn't remember where. Got it printed out and bookmarked now tho. I knew from reading that there should be a stop screw and the dashpot wasn't the only part needed there, i just didn't see a stop screw on my throttle body. I'll look again.
Jul 13, 2012 | 11:26 AM
#912
Well, .... for 12 years, I've had NO #1 setting on my Heat/AC blower motor lever... Ordered the Blower Motor Resistor from www.RockAuto.com and I'll be blowing LOW when needed in no time It's in the mail/shipped. 9$ with coupon I get in the email, monthly.
chef,
do you have a part # for that and know whether it will fit my 89 also? I don't have 1st OR 2nd setting on my fan. Also, why do my quotes not show up in the blocks like everyone else's?
It's in the mail/shipped. 9$ with coupon I get in the email, monthly. chef,
do you have a part # for that and know whether it will fit my 89 also? I don't have 1st OR 2nd setting on my fan. Also, why do my quotes not show up in the blocks like everyone else's?
Jul 13, 2012 | 01:15 PM
#913
Not sure why they don't show-up in blocks... Are you clicking 'QUOTE', in the right/bottom corner to post the message? If not, that's why. If you wanna quote many people in a message, just click the middle one in the bottom right corner(multi-quote) on a few,.... Until the last one down... Then click quote, and it will have them all quoted in your message so you can comment under each one, ya know?
Honestly, I don't think it's the same part.... This was mine....... RU250 ...
This is what I find under 89 22RE PU, ....... RU246
This is a blow up of that part... It looks different to me, but is also, like mine, a 4 terminal switch resistor.........
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=443625
Just go to www.rockauto.com and look up your year... Just to double check my search. Also, call them, make them work a lil and be SURE that's the part you need, ok?
Honestly, I don't think it's the same part.... This was mine....... RU250 ...
This is what I find under 89 22RE PU, ....... RU246
This is a blow up of that part... It looks different to me, but is also, like mine, a 4 terminal switch resistor.........
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=443625
Just go to www.rockauto.com and look up your year... Just to double check my search. Also, call them, make them work a lil and be SURE that's the part you need, ok?
Jul 13, 2012 | 02:28 PM
#914
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
91 ext cab v6 345k on the clock
-A/C doesnt blow cold
-engine noise maybe valve tick, unsure
-godawful sound when i max out the steering
-drivers seatbelt reciever is busted
-radio screen doesnt work
-sometimes hard to put her into first gear
-sometimes doesnt wanna stay in reverse
-passenger window is really hard to roll down
-gas pedal very stiff
-trailer hitch plug doenst work
-A/C doesnt blow cold
-engine noise maybe valve tick, unsure
-godawful sound when i max out the steering
-drivers seatbelt reciever is busted
-radio screen doesnt work
-sometimes hard to put her into first gear
-sometimes doesnt wanna stay in reverse
-passenger window is really hard to roll down
-gas pedal very stiff
-trailer hitch plug doenst work
I think I'll break her's 
Jul 14, 2012 | 01:46 AM
#918
Registered User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Okotoks Alberta
After my first/last trip in my 84
Snapped a Birfield or axle havent taken it out yet to see
probably the axle housing along with trunion bearings and the little things that hold them. Had to drive 3 hours back to camp without being able to turn left, only straight and right and we were on a pretty knarly trail, so im sure somethings chewed up inisde now.
Broken passenger mirror
Broken passenger signal light, more like ripped off somewhere in the trees
Power steering pump
Starter - rebuilt it though on the trail it was full of mud and wouldnt turn over
Water pumps puking out the weep hole
But other then that everythings running real good!
Snapped a Birfield or axle havent taken it out yet to see
probably the axle housing along with trunion bearings and the little things that hold them. Had to drive 3 hours back to camp without being able to turn left, only straight and right and we were on a pretty knarly trail, so im sure somethings chewed up inisde now.
Broken passenger mirror
Broken passenger signal light, more like ripped off somewhere in the trees
Power steering pump
Starter - rebuilt it though on the trail it was full of mud and wouldnt turn over
Water pumps puking out the weep hole
But other then that everythings running real good!
Jul 14, 2012 | 02:26 AM
#919
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: CT
chef...i got the bolts out using the ol' easy out...2 hours of trying to drill straight holes, making sure I'm not rubbing on a hose or electrical...breaking one easy out!...finally using a pipe wrench on them and they came out nice and easy, like nothing was ever wrong! I read that a bad regulator in the alternator can cause that fuse to blow, so we will find out today if thats the case or not.
Jul 15, 2012 | 09:00 AM
#920
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Clutch is slipping-- been reading about which replacement kit to buy. Many recommended WabFab but seems they only make kits for 4x4s. I e-mailed WabFab a legitimate query & rec'd from them a sarcastic reply. My 1991 XtraCab pickup is a 2x4 and 4-cyl. so now looking at Marlin-- can I use Marlin for street-only riding, I don't off-road. Trying to educate myself about ceramic, dual-friction, or just a $99 OEM kit from AutoZone DuraLast. Never had a clutch replaced before so want to do this right 1st time.
