Hey guys, .... just FYI,......

Walked into DCH Toyota, today, which is around 1/2mile from my door.... asked the guy at the counter, "I know you're closing, but can you just look up my keycode from the vin?" My vin 'WAS NOT FOUND', .....wth??????? Anyway, he said, "Two things you can do.... Here's a card, for 1. Calling Toyota directly.. if anyone has the code, it's them, and they'll send it to us.... You have to have ID and Registration in hand, and then we'll cut it"......... BUT, he THEN said, "BTW, ...the key code is on the actual lock cylinder of the passenger door... Just get the code off that, call us and voila, we'll cut your key, whether "TOYOTA" finds your vin# Key Code or not!".... So just thought I'd share that, and I'll be looking into it asap .

 

Been there. Two winters ago I lost my keys-the only one I had for my recently acquired plow truck-and went through my local Toyota dealer. I was told no on the VIN-same as you-and the tag in the passenger door was impossible to read. I ended up swapping all of my cylinders out (luckily I had two parts trucks) and found my keys when the snow melted.

Best of luck, sir.

 

let's see
now i need

-new box (who doesn't)
-fuel pump or filter..
-everything to be not constant power in my truck(aka person that did rebuild connected everything to the battery not ignition switch)
-driver seat
-sunroof
-speedometer
-oil pan gasket
-tires


that's all i really need and she'll be good

 

Hmmmmmmmm, interesting........ Was the cylinder in the door rusty? Just a weak imprint? Why wasn't it legible? (IOW).

Thanks, Resto........ Not gonna get my hope up now...... I wonder, also, do you think they've cleared their databases (On accident or maybe on purpose) from way back there? I understand them not manufacturing certain parts and such.... Too much cost and no profit on much of it/along with so lil a demand compared to 1998 Prerunner Tacoma's, etc., etc. But to not have the freak'n key codes???????? C'monnnnnnn!

 

lets see.....where to begin....
fuse for hazards
pass lock cyl jammed
rear u joint is toast so truck is currently front wheel drive wile is soaks in pb blaster
lower rad hose leak, clamp failed
clutch is almost broke (knock on wood)
fan switch is no longer attatched to heater control unit

sooo, yeah its in better condition than something rolling off the lot!

pretty good for 320,000 miles

 

It was corroded to the point that two of the digits were difficult to determine. It could have been a C or a G or a 3 or an 8-something like that. My truck did spend it's entire life in NH, so your chances are better than mine.

As far as the codes being accessible to the Keymaster of Gozer, I chalked it up to my dealer not wanting to store a book when all of their info is on the computer. Remember how those places used to look like libraries? Not anymore.

 

Thanks, Resto... yeah, mine could be easier to read... but will they even have that code stored anymore? NO IDEA! haha.... What ticks me off is that whenever I order parts, they tell me all about it, where it was built, etc. yet they can't find a key code? Can't order MANY parts anymore? hahaha...

Did you just pull off the inner panel and could see it? Or did you have to remove the lock cylinder, Resto????

 

Pulled the inner panel. You may have to remove/cut the plastic if yours is still there. Buena suerte, amigo.

 

just the front seal on the trans... It leaks so I go through the ATF I'll fix it eventually but everything else is perfect for now. the injectors tick too but whatever. needs an oil change but that's not really broken. oh and the passenger side lock will not unlock with the key... Kinda annoying. I also don't think the cold start injector works quite right but that's not a huge problem.

 

Hey man, Gracias! lol..... Yeah, the plastic is still all there(mostly I should say, haha)..... NO rust from what I remember when dealing with an issue I can't remember that required me removing the panel.

Y Beuna suerte a usted tambien', amigo!

 

My 82 has tipical frame rust, so I made a pattern of inside of the frame. I went to a fab shop and had them draw up a program for their CNC plasma to cut some nice ones out. They charge by the hour and not the piece, so I ended up with a pile of them! Guess I'm set on that for the next 500 years!

 

AH HAHHHHHHHHHHHH! I just remembered something I HAVE TO FIND/replace.....

My passenger side power window button is broken.... It's not urgent, but passengers can't roll it up, only down.... (ask Redeth, I messed with him a bit hahaha... He's a good sport )

Anyway, I TRIED one from same year, etc., and it started to roll down, up a lil... THEN SMOKE STARTED COMING OUT OF IT! Kaput! Any clue if OTHER wiring issues cause this to burn up or are causing that side switch not to work? Curious if anyone has dealt with this, s'all.

HAVE A GREAT DAY, YOTATECH, ....IT'S FRIDAY!!!!!!

 

Wiring before or after the switch shouldn't cause the switch to go bad. Unless you have more voltage going to the switch than it's rated for (but how could you do that???). Provided you have good connections to the switch, where ever the smoke comes out that's where the problem is.

Sounds like that switch had a bad connection inside.

 

THANKS, SPARKS! Appreciate it.... And how appropriate that a dude named "SPARKS" answers that one, eh?

How you been, man?

 

mines wrecked so i guess there is alot of broken stuff...

 

my truck has several problems
1. my boots dont work
2. my tailgate wont open unless i pull the wires( but im just gonna buy a net to make my truck lighter)
3.my engine is atleast 23 years old and its starting to crap out on me
i dont have to money to buy stuff for my truck. is there a quick way to get money until i get a job

 

Uhmmmmmmmmmmmmm.... that is just TOO wide open... I'll refrain.

GOTTA be some side work in your area, no Isaiah? Start asking every neighbor you got if you can do some work for them, landscaping, etc., etc.... ANYTHING that will bring in money, right? Sorry man, I know it's rough for lots right now!

 

WHAT'S UP CHEF!!! You called it on getting the TPS from rockauto. I ordered an 'OEM Equivalent' from them and it doesn't work right....can't get all the settings to mesh together.

Still need to pick up my new TPS from Toyota and put that thing on. Hopefully that will solve my problem. All the wiring checks out so I should be good.

I also noticed when I had the throttle body off that I BADLY need to clean out the intake at some point soon. That manifold is CrAzY nasty!!! I'm sure that's not helping matters either.

BTW, you think about it for a couple seconds and it's not hard to figure out why it's 'SPARKS89'.........

 

Hey Sparks-alot! haha.

Ya know, .......I'm not saying that an aftermarket TPS wont work/can't be properly set... People do it all the time. I was just saying that the quality is not the same, period. Yet again, guys have Several thousand miles on TPS models from Rockauto/O'reilly/Autozone/Pep Boys, ... the lot. They're all supposed to be set to OEM specs....

* Did you set the idle stop screw to 4crawler specifications first?

* Did you make sure The Dashpot isn't stuck at some point?

* Are you SURE you installed the TPS the same as the last one was installed?(Not sure its' possible to install with the notches out of place... but if so, it would DEFINITELY cause the settings to be impossible to get to specs).

* Are you 100% positive that you're inserting the feelers in the right spot?(I got that wrong the first couple times and couldn't get it to 'adjust' properly.) Just be sure you're using the Stop Screw location and NOT the Dashpot Stop plate location.

* Are you sure you're on the proper settings on your Multi-Meter?(NOT trying to insult.. Just double checking everything that I messed up on the first times I took this on! hahaha.) Some Settings have to be on 2K or the like,....others on 10Ohm or the like.....>> IIRC! I'd have to read back through the 'How to use an Ohmmeter' section.

* I'm assuming you have the T-body on the bench..... If so, give it another look on the 4Crawler instructions on setting the stop screw/dashpot and BE VERY slow in any attempted adjustments.... And then remember, when you read those 4crawler instructions, you have to set the first setting, then tighten the top screw to some degree, then move the TPS body for the other adjustments in a PIVOT manner.

* ALSO, remove the TPS first and fully clean the Throttle Body flap/door and throttle linkage, etc., etc.(You don't want to soak the TPS in any way, as solvents and such can get in there if it's mounted when you clean and screw it up.

If you can't return this item, I'd hate for you to have to buy YET ANOTHER one, Sparks

 

Sparks.... Also read on that one portion of his instructions... "If you get the first setting right, MOST often the remainder line up within acceptable range".... And also "If you don't have THE EXACT thousandths feeler, get close as you can." ....... Just lots of lil seemingly HIDDEN things in there, .....that OF COURSE seem right there in front of me now, after doing it a couple times. haha.