What is broken on YOUR Toyota
Jun 20, 2012 | 05:01 AM
#882
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Well on my rig, i got 1 squeeeeeky ass belt. Whenever i start it when is hot. or get high rpms it just sqeels and sqeels.. Cant look cool burnin 35s with a yota when the belts squeking more then the tires are.. Any advice??
Jun 20, 2012 | 08:45 AM
#883
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada.
500,000km's and ya, there's guna be some problems.
- Fuel guage only works on a full tank, then it sporadically bounces around making an annoying clicking sound until it finally rests on empty, somewhere after 100km's of driving.
- intermittent wipers are a thing of the past. When I put it on intermittent, they may swipe the winshield just once, or a horrible buzzing noise eminates from behind the dash somewhere.
- the rear window rolls up and down beautifully after I replaced the regulator, hard wired most of the safety switches, replaced the up/down switch on the console, and replaced the back plastic on the tailgate with the key/switch, although the key in the tailgate doesn't actualy work to roll the window up and down. And sometimes it just doesn't respond to my repeated pressing of the down switch. Usualy causing veins to pop out of my forehead and numerous unmentionables uttered.
- The A/C light glows softly green in the dash, but alas, haven't had working A/C since a deer took out my rad support, hood, radiator, and a/c components. The shop fixed everything as good as new, but one of the main A/C hoses had a slice in it, unbeknownst to me until I bought an A/C recharge kit and disharged almost an entire can of freon into my face through the slice in the hose before I could get the valve closed again.
- Automatic carwahes have to be aproached carefully. Rain gear is preffered.
- I can't leave the back passenger side seat up or it squeaks, and squeaks, and squeaks. If someone is sitting in it, it's quiet as a church mouse. Or else it squeaks...
- the little spring in my drivers outside door handle has been missing for years, so I have to make sure that when I open the door, that the handle falls back down, or else it sticks out, and kinda waves at people as I drive down bumpy roads.
- have some major TPS related issues right now, keeping me from driving my baby. Hoping to fix over the next couple of weekends. FIXED, cost: free, used AFM from a buddy.
- passengers door key NFG. Someone tried to break into it using a screwdriver or something and destroyed the passenger door key. No gentlemanly behavior for me and my lady.
- blower fan now only works on high. Used to be a four posion fan, switch has given up the ghost.
- Can't get to the defrost position anymore. Only blows on vents or floor.
- Added LED front signals, now signals blink fast, but only when I have my foot on the brakes, wierd. Fixed, cost: 15 bucks. Added an LED flasher.
- rear drivers side leaf spring rubs against the leaf spring clamp and squeaks. A shot a fluid film stops it,,, for a while.
- rear pinion seal never stays sealed.
Despite all of this, I love my Runner and will never get rid of it. These quirks make my baby unique, and give him personality.
- Fuel guage only works on a full tank, then it sporadically bounces around making an annoying clicking sound until it finally rests on empty, somewhere after 100km's of driving.
- intermittent wipers are a thing of the past. When I put it on intermittent, they may swipe the winshield just once, or a horrible buzzing noise eminates from behind the dash somewhere.
- the rear window rolls up and down beautifully after I replaced the regulator, hard wired most of the safety switches, replaced the up/down switch on the console, and replaced the back plastic on the tailgate with the key/switch, although the key in the tailgate doesn't actualy work to roll the window up and down. And sometimes it just doesn't respond to my repeated pressing of the down switch. Usualy causing veins to pop out of my forehead and numerous unmentionables uttered.
- The A/C light glows softly green in the dash, but alas, haven't had working A/C since a deer took out my rad support, hood, radiator, and a/c components. The shop fixed everything as good as new, but one of the main A/C hoses had a slice in it, unbeknownst to me until I bought an A/C recharge kit and disharged almost an entire can of freon into my face through the slice in the hose before I could get the valve closed again.
- Automatic carwahes have to be aproached carefully. Rain gear is preffered.
- I can't leave the back passenger side seat up or it squeaks, and squeaks, and squeaks. If someone is sitting in it, it's quiet as a church mouse. Or else it squeaks...
- the little spring in my drivers outside door handle has been missing for years, so I have to make sure that when I open the door, that the handle falls back down, or else it sticks out, and kinda waves at people as I drive down bumpy roads.
- have some major TPS related issues right now, keeping me from driving my baby. Hoping to fix over the next couple of weekends. FIXED, cost: free, used AFM from a buddy.
- passengers door key NFG. Someone tried to break into it using a screwdriver or something and destroyed the passenger door key. No gentlemanly behavior for me and my lady.
- blower fan now only works on high. Used to be a four posion fan, switch has given up the ghost.
- Can't get to the defrost position anymore. Only blows on vents or floor.
- Added LED front signals, now signals blink fast, but only when I have my foot on the brakes, wierd. Fixed, cost: 15 bucks. Added an LED flasher.
- rear drivers side leaf spring rubs against the leaf spring clamp and squeaks. A shot a fluid film stops it,,, for a while.
- rear pinion seal never stays sealed.
Despite all of this, I love my Runner and will never get rid of it. These quirks make my baby unique, and give him personality.
Last edited by ROCKGUY76; Jul 2, 2012 at 06:31 PM.
Jun 22, 2012 | 06:26 PM
#884
gotta add to my electrical self destruction that's happening on my runner....
well, it's actually mechanical but ya know...
driver door lock would occasionally stick and not unlock (not real happy about not being able to make a quick exit!!!) and now it won't unlock at all.
It's pretty annoying trying to tackle this with the freakin' door locked shut, cripes...
makes it fun to drive around town; stop at a store and have to crawl out the pass side, that's always fun
well, it's actually mechanical but ya know...
driver door lock would occasionally stick and not unlock (not real happy about not being able to make a quick exit!!!) and now it won't unlock at all.
It's pretty annoying trying to tackle this with the freakin' door locked shut, cripes...
makes it fun to drive around town; stop at a store and have to crawl out the pass side, that's always fun
Jun 22, 2012 | 08:36 PM
#885
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Well, let's see.
94 pickup 2wd 4cyl:
Blown Headgasket, timing chain worn through cover, cracked head, massive freakin exhaust leak, cat converter, suspension is horrible, rear bumper bent down about 15 deg, seat is cloth over springs, foam gone. Oh yeah, and the alignment is way off.
Love that truck. Engine being replaced, yeah baby!
99 4runner 2.7L 4cyl 4x4-
Nothing besides the gas cap opening mechanism malfunction! She's a beauty
94 pickup 2wd 4cyl:
Blown Headgasket, timing chain worn through cover, cracked head, massive freakin exhaust leak, cat converter, suspension is horrible, rear bumper bent down about 15 deg, seat is cloth over springs, foam gone. Oh yeah, and the alignment is way off.
Love that truck. Engine being replaced, yeah baby!
99 4runner 2.7L 4cyl 4x4-
Nothing besides the gas cap opening mechanism malfunction! She's a beauty
Jun 29, 2012 | 01:54 AM
#887
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: El paso
A buch of minor and one major
- Needs new engine
- drivers side door pannel falls off reg
- cig/clock/power mirrors dont work
- drivers head rest falling apart
- back drivers side window is going out
- dome lighs decide when to come on
Jul 1, 2012 | 05:33 AM
#889
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 13,574
Likes: 71
From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
1: front e-brake cable (on order will be here Thursday)
2: Drivers side window crank (window doesn't go up all the way)
3: body hitting frame somewhere (haven't tracked it down yet) Probably a rusted floorboard.
4: 1 bent wheel and 1 severely damaged wheel lip (2 damaged wheels total)
5: I think my alternator bearing is making noise.....again
6: Passenger side lower ball joint is "loose"
7: I and II don't work on my blower. Needs blower motor resister.
2: Drivers side window crank (window doesn't go up all the way)
3: body hitting frame somewhere (haven't tracked it down yet) Probably a rusted floorboard.
4: 1 bent wheel and 1 severely damaged wheel lip (2 damaged wheels total)
5: I think my alternator bearing is making noise.....again
6: Passenger side lower ball joint is "loose"
7: I and II don't work on my blower. Needs blower motor resister.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; Jul 1, 2012 at 05:35 AM.
Jul 6, 2012 | 10:51 PM
#891
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: peachland, BC
Turnsignals, wipers stoped but motor, switch, and linkage are good (so are fuses and links..I cant figure it out) dome light and guage lights are out and the "box" by the pedal is just gone. No heater blower power. Have to slam the gears..does not grind just have to muscle it into first and reverse. The grill is busted. So so soooo many others.
Jul 7, 2012 | 12:17 AM
#892
1: front e-brake cable (on order will be here Thursday)
2: Drivers side window crank (window doesn't go up all the way)
3: body hitting frame somewhere (haven't tracked it down yet) Probably a rusted floorboard.
4: 1 bent wheel and 1 severely damaged wheel lip (2 damaged wheels total)
5: I think my alternator bearing is making noise.....again
6: Passenger side lower ball joint is "loose"
7: I and II don't work on my blower. Needs blower motor resister.
2: Drivers side window crank (window doesn't go up all the way)
3: body hitting frame somewhere (haven't tracked it down yet) Probably a rusted floorboard.
4: 1 bent wheel and 1 severely damaged wheel lip (2 damaged wheels total)
5: I think my alternator bearing is making noise.....again
6: Passenger side lower ball joint is "loose"
7: I and II don't work on my blower. Needs blower motor resister.
BTW, ... where, EXACTLY is that blower resistor? Isn't it attached to the backside/panel of the lever itself? I'ma try to grab one tomorrow at 50% off day(last day of the sale) at Pick-your-Part!
Jul 10, 2012 | 09:45 AM
#893
1. Needs new EVERYTHING for brakes (parts are sitting in the living room right now)
2. Engine wants to stall out and die sometimes after it warms up on a hot day (I think I've got a bubble in the cooling system)
3. Horn doesn't work unless I turn the wheel to the left and then it's only occassionally
4. Timing cover leaks oil
5. Steering gearbox leaks
Leaking front diff
6. Bad ball joint
2. Engine wants to stall out and die sometimes after it warms up on a hot day (I think I've got a bubble in the cooling system)
3. Horn doesn't work unless I turn the wheel to the left and then it's only occassionally
4. Timing cover leaks oil
5. Steering gearbox leaks
Leaking front diff
6. Bad ball joint
Jul 10, 2012 | 11:32 AM
#894
Just wanted to ask a couple things... I'll post in red..........
Hey, I'm waiting for a delivery right now.... gimme a break, guys! hahaha.
1. Needs new EVERYTHING for brakes (parts are sitting in the living room right now) USE OEM OR AT LEAST QUALITY on the pads/shoes.... Ask me how I know this is wise? hahaha.
2. Engine wants to stall out and die sometimes after it warms up on a hot day (I think I've got a bubble in the cooling system) I've seen you, I THINK, going over this in a thread.....with 4crawler? He's a Guru..... he wont misguide ya. If NOT, and I'm actually mixing you up with someone else.... Check the VSV on the valve cover(If your year still has that) that feeds vacuum to the Fuel Pressure Regulator..... That VSV is supposed to be for 'HOT SOAK'... and I've seen them go bad. Also would be good to know WHY you're having issues with "hot soak", if that's indeed the problem. (VSV testing ISSSSS in the FSM... MAYBE in the Haynes, can't remember).
3. Horn doesn't work unless I turn the wheel to the left and then it's only occassionally. This COULD be a short... I've seen the wiring get caught on something while the shaft is turning.... It's caused other things in there, as well, to go 'intermittent' in other peoples troubleshooting posts.
4. Timing cover leaks oil OHHHHHHHHH BOY, ....THAT can be a fun one. Lemme guess.... Either you pinched the HG and it's leaking out from the top... Or you're leaking from the AC Bolt holes(and possibly side of cover/beside the AC bolt holes)? .... ORRRRR, you have the infamous "front main seal leaking, then being SLUNG all over by the Harmonic balancer Deflector Shield????" EITHER WAY, I'm not laughin! I know exactly how frustrating timing cover leaks can be. Do yourself a favor... Don't try to seal it up by pulling the AC bolts or whatever leak you might have... UNLESS it's the Front Main....... Then, obviously, you only have to pull the oil pump. If it IS the front main seal.... DO NOT put it off too long... It can go from a 'drip-drip' to a HOLY CRAP, MY EXHAUST MANIFOLD IS ON FIRE!!!', pretty quick, hahaha. Not only that, but it makes a mess... Anyway, DO TELL, ...where on the timing cover?
5. Steering gearbox leaks. YEP, had this issue as well..... Lemme ask ya..... Not to be insulting... you'd be surprised how many people don't know..... 'You ARE using Dextron 3 ATF fluid in your steering system, yes?' I have a whole section of my build pertaining to ''oops, my gear box and 2 steering pumps blew up.... from using Steering Fluid".... Just thought I'd check... AND, if you end up NEEDING a new gear box... Get one with low miles, from any 86-94(you'll have to check the years, not sure it's all the way to 95) .... 2WD! SAME BOX, ...and the 2WD's have gone through FAR less drama/work. AND, ... repairing SOME leaks on the gear boxes can be FAR more work than simply hitting a yard and finding a wrecked 93 2WD Toyota with 86K miles, like I did(for 60$ ) ..... Then, if you DO have steering fluid in there, you need to properly flush the gear box, then lines/reservoir, and properly fill and bleed the system after adding Dextron 3 ATF.... OR, ....maybe it's just leaking from the top flare nut.... in which case, ignore everything I said? hahahahaha.
6. Leaking front diff..... Oooh, yeah, that's sucky! Where's it leaking from? Axle seals.... or just the bolt?(That would be nice, right?)
7. Bad ball joint We've all either had one or been in a rig with one... It's annoying, right?
2. Engine wants to stall out and die sometimes after it warms up on a hot day (I think I've got a bubble in the cooling system) I've seen you, I THINK, going over this in a thread.....with 4crawler? He's a Guru..... he wont misguide ya. If NOT, and I'm actually mixing you up with someone else.... Check the VSV on the valve cover(If your year still has that) that feeds vacuum to the Fuel Pressure Regulator..... That VSV is supposed to be for 'HOT SOAK'... and I've seen them go bad. Also would be good to know WHY you're having issues with "hot soak", if that's indeed the problem. (VSV testing ISSSSS in the FSM... MAYBE in the Haynes, can't remember).
3. Horn doesn't work unless I turn the wheel to the left and then it's only occassionally. This COULD be a short... I've seen the wiring get caught on something while the shaft is turning.... It's caused other things in there, as well, to go 'intermittent' in other peoples troubleshooting posts.
4. Timing cover leaks oil OHHHHHHHHH BOY, ....THAT can be a fun one. Lemme guess.... Either you pinched the HG and it's leaking out from the top... Or you're leaking from the AC Bolt holes(and possibly side of cover/beside the AC bolt holes)? .... ORRRRR, you have the infamous "front main seal leaking, then being SLUNG all over by the Harmonic balancer Deflector Shield????" EITHER WAY, I'm not laughin! I know exactly how frustrating timing cover leaks can be. Do yourself a favor... Don't try to seal it up by pulling the AC bolts or whatever leak you might have... UNLESS it's the Front Main....... Then, obviously, you only have to pull the oil pump. If it IS the front main seal.... DO NOT put it off too long... It can go from a 'drip-drip' to a HOLY CRAP, MY EXHAUST MANIFOLD IS ON FIRE!!!', pretty quick, hahaha. Not only that, but it makes a mess... Anyway, DO TELL, ...where on the timing cover?
5. Steering gearbox leaks. YEP, had this issue as well..... Lemme ask ya..... Not to be insulting... you'd be surprised how many people don't know..... 'You ARE using Dextron 3 ATF fluid in your steering system, yes?' I have a whole section of my build pertaining to ''oops, my gear box and 2 steering pumps blew up.... from using Steering Fluid".... Just thought I'd check... AND, if you end up NEEDING a new gear box... Get one with low miles, from any 86-94(you'll have to check the years, not sure it's all the way to 95) .... 2WD! SAME BOX, ...and the 2WD's have gone through FAR less drama/work. AND, ... repairing SOME leaks on the gear boxes can be FAR more work than simply hitting a yard and finding a wrecked 93 2WD Toyota with 86K miles, like I did(for 60$
) ..... Then, if you DO have steering fluid in there, you need to properly flush the gear box, then lines/reservoir, and properly fill and bleed the system after adding Dextron 3 ATF.... OR, ....maybe it's just leaking from the top flare nut.... in which case, ignore everything I said? hahahahaha. 6. Leaking front diff..... Oooh, yeah, that's sucky! Where's it leaking from? Axle seals.... or just the bolt?(That would be nice, right?)
7. Bad ball joint We've all either had one or been in a rig with one... It's annoying, right?
Jul 10, 2012 | 11:56 AM
#895
It's hard to tell on the timing cover where the leak is coming from. The fan is blowing it EVERYWHERE so it's hard to track down. As far as the steering gear box and front diff leaks I haven't looked too far into those yet either. I just got thru taking care of my transmission problems last week and haven't had time to move on to the next project yet. I've only had the truck since the day after Christmas and I've been keeping an eye on the fluid levels so far to keep things from getting worse (i hope). I don't know what fluid is in the steering system. I haven't had to add anything to it but I would HOPE the PO used the right fluid in it. I have to get the brakes done to pass inspection next month and the horn. A lot of people have installed buttons on the dash for a new horn but I really don't want to do that. I would much rather FIX something than install something else to replace what I couldn't fix. I HATE THAT!!!!
Jul 11, 2012 | 04:51 AM
#896
I know the PO replaced the timing chain and guides about a month before I bought the truck from him, but He didn't do a very good job of sealing everything back up. I'll tear into it at some point and take care of it for 2 reasons: 1) I just hate having a leak and 2) I'm not convinced he did everything quite right. I've checked the timing on my engine and according to the information I have it should be around 5*. Well, I tried that. I couldn't adjust the distributor far enough to get to 5*. The closest I could get was around 7 or 8. I took the truck out for a spin and it was HORRIBLE. There was no pep and it took forever to get up to speed. When I got back to the house the exhaust manifold was GLOWING!!!!! I had to set the timing back to around 14 or so where it was. I know there's bound to be a LOT of things out of adjustment on the engine.
I've worked on cars and trucks in the past but this is my first Toyota and I'm having to do things with this truck that I've never done before. I LOVE this truck and I'm not getting rid of it, but I have to learn as i go on this thing too. I'm used to working on Dodge's and Chevy's and while the concept is the same the components and how they work together is a little different on foreign stuff.
I've worked on cars and trucks in the past but this is my first Toyota and I'm having to do things with this truck that I've never done before. I LOVE this truck and I'm not getting rid of it, but I have to learn as i go on this thing too. I'm used to working on Dodge's and Chevy's and while the concept is the same the components and how they work together is a little different on foreign stuff.
Jul 11, 2012 | 11:01 AM
#897
Hey SParks..... Thanks for all the info.. it ALWAYS helps.
1. You'd be SHOCKED how many people have no CLUE that Dextron 3-ATF goes in the Steering system. I, PERSONALLY, somehow forgot... Even though I'd done it on 2 other yotas. It'd been 15 years...I'd been restoring/replacing the steering system on a 70 CST blazer around then... Not sure... maybe that and GETTING OLD? hahaha. Either way, I forgot... and within days, it ALMOST SEIZED my Gear box.... Ruined it for sure!
2. OIL leak(ooops, I'd posted steering, lol)..... Wait til the fan clutch stops, then just run it and watch. If it's the front main seal, it'll leak out the bottom of the crank housing, REALLLLLLY slow. Just a lil stream, but you'll see it(especially considering that you're saying "fan is sending it all over".... because that sounds like substantial enough rate of leakage that it's gotta be visible. Remove the skid plate and WATCH WITH FLASHLIGHT, carefully! haha. Mine leaked from the AC bolt holes..... But the fan didn't take it everywhere. It leaked from the top, also didn't blow everywhere... Mostly under. But the CRANK, when rolling, will push out and sling all over that oil. The deflector will push it back, but as it get's worse.... it starts to wind up everywhere. I hear ya on inspection... but trust me, if it's that front main? It could REALLY start POURING at no notice.... Then you will have a smoke festival and lose the oil fast as well. Hopefully doesn't happen at the inspection
(I doubt it, of course... But that's just what would happen to me, ...ask anyone! hahaha)
3. TIMING; That clicked right off... Not sure if I've posted this to you elsewhere.. But I'd BET that you're Dizzy is off a tooth. IF HE did the timing kit....(MR. LEAKY, haha).... I'd EVEN MORE SO suspect it's off a tooth. This will cause it to run rough, hot out the exhaust and internally combustion-wise.... Yes, I would;
....A. Pull the Valve cover
....B. Get it to TDC-Compression, FOR SURE!
....C. Pull the Dizzy
....D. Peek on top of the dizzy gear(the part you'd see if you looked into the hole) ON the dizzy... You'll see a dimple. That dimple HAS to be set RIGHT BEFORE the CAM-dizzy drive gear, ... counterclockwise. Insert the Dizzy with the rotor pointing at DIRECTLY 12OCLOCK.... Watch the rotor fall back to #1, and NOTE THE DIMPLE... If it's just barely to the left of the CAM drive gear... YOU'RE GOLDEN~! (You could try just getting it to TDC and then pulling it, then reinstalling it like I said... You just can't see if the dimple is in the right place with the valve cover on, yaknow? But you could do that and then try to reset the timing... see if you got it right without visually looking at the dimple... Just slide it in with the rotor at 12, let it fall back).
........BUT, it seems when the timing can't be set to extremes like that... It's one of two things...
1. The PO is a KNOB and installed the chain wrong
2. Dizzy is off a tooth.
It doesn't take long for HIGH INTERNAL COMBUSTION TEMPS like that to destroy an engine... So make SURE the timing is right/dizzy is right.
PS> YOU ARE jumping the T-E1 connectors in the Diagnostic port when you're trying to set the timing, right?(NOT insulting you... just making sure... Worth asking, right?)
1. You'd be SHOCKED how many people have no CLUE that Dextron 3-ATF goes in the Steering system. I, PERSONALLY, somehow forgot... Even though I'd done it on 2 other yotas. It'd been 15 years...I'd been restoring/replacing the steering system on a 70 CST blazer around then... Not sure... maybe that and GETTING OLD? hahaha. Either way, I forgot... and within days, it ALMOST SEIZED my Gear box.... Ruined it for sure!
2. OIL leak(ooops, I'd posted steering, lol)..... Wait til the fan clutch stops, then just run it and watch. If it's the front main seal, it'll leak out the bottom of the crank housing, REALLLLLLY slow. Just a lil stream, but you'll see it(especially considering that you're saying "fan is sending it all over".... because that sounds like substantial enough rate of leakage that it's gotta be visible. Remove the skid plate and WATCH WITH FLASHLIGHT, carefully! haha. Mine leaked from the AC bolt holes..... But the fan didn't take it everywhere. It leaked from the top, also didn't blow everywhere... Mostly under. But the CRANK, when rolling, will push out and sling all over that oil. The deflector will push it back, but as it get's worse.... it starts to wind up everywhere. I hear ya on inspection... but trust me, if it's that front main? It could REALLY start POURING at no notice.... Then you will have a smoke festival and lose the oil fast as well. Hopefully doesn't happen at the inspection
(I doubt it, of course... But that's just what would happen to me, ...ask anyone! hahaha)3. TIMING; That clicked right off... Not sure if I've posted this to you elsewhere.. But I'd BET that you're Dizzy is off a tooth. IF HE did the timing kit....(MR. LEAKY, haha).... I'd EVEN MORE SO suspect it's off a tooth. This will cause it to run rough, hot out the exhaust and internally combustion-wise.... Yes, I would;
....A. Pull the Valve cover
....B. Get it to TDC-Compression, FOR SURE!
....C. Pull the Dizzy
....D. Peek on top of the dizzy gear(the part you'd see if you looked into the hole) ON the dizzy... You'll see a dimple. That dimple HAS to be set RIGHT BEFORE the CAM-dizzy drive gear, ... counterclockwise. Insert the Dizzy with the rotor pointing at DIRECTLY 12OCLOCK.... Watch the rotor fall back to #1, and NOTE THE DIMPLE... If it's just barely to the left of the CAM drive gear... YOU'RE GOLDEN~! (You could try just getting it to TDC and then pulling it, then reinstalling it like I said... You just can't see if the dimple is in the right place with the valve cover on, yaknow? But you could do that and then try to reset the timing... see if you got it right without visually looking at the dimple... Just slide it in with the rotor at 12, let it fall back).
........BUT, it seems when the timing can't be set to extremes like that... It's one of two things...
1. The PO is a KNOB and installed the chain wrong
2. Dizzy is off a tooth.
It doesn't take long for HIGH INTERNAL COMBUSTION TEMPS like that to destroy an engine... So make SURE the timing is right/dizzy is right.
PS> YOU ARE jumping the T-E1 connectors in the Diagnostic port when you're trying to set the timing, right?(NOT insulting you... just making sure... Worth asking, right?)
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Jul 11, 2012 at 11:15 AM.
Jul 11, 2012 | 11:32 AM
#899
Ooh.... I think those are pretty cheap at the Dealer(also find em at the Pick-Your-Part yards on occasion...)... AND, the hard start when warm thing sounds like my COR problem I had. I could reach up in above the ECU/behind pass side speaker and that thing would BURN me it was so hot/shorting out due to corrosion from leaking windshield. Can be the VSV for the FPR too. Try rerouting the FPR vacuum directly into the intake 3port thingy...Like 4crawler did... See if that helps when it's 'doing it's bad behavior'! lol.
Jul 11, 2012 | 11:36 AM
#900
I am jumping the connectors when I'm checking the timing. I also checked it without the jumper for the heck of it and I didn't see a difference in what I was getting. I don't know why that is, but obviously there's a reason for using the jumper otherwise it would say to do it.
The engine isn't running hot. It only got that hot when I tried to adjust my timing to 5* like it's supposed to be. The engine actually runs pretty good warming up and going down the road. There's no misses or anything funny. It's when the engine is warm and idling that it acts funny sometimes. The idle will lope a little about 50-150 rpms. I'm not sure if this is normal with the Yotas or not. I'm keeping and eye on things until I can get around to fixing them as I can.
I might as well plan on taking care of the leak up front at the same time since I have to tear into it anyway. I HATE LEAKS!!!!!!!!!
The engine isn't running hot. It only got that hot when I tried to adjust my timing to 5* like it's supposed to be. The engine actually runs pretty good warming up and going down the road. There's no misses or anything funny. It's when the engine is warm and idling that it acts funny sometimes. The idle will lope a little about 50-150 rpms. I'm not sure if this is normal with the Yotas or not. I'm keeping and eye on things until I can get around to fixing them as I can.
I might as well plan on taking care of the leak up front at the same time since I have to tear into it anyway. I HATE LEAKS!!!!!!!!!
