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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

oh no.Rod knock?

Old 01-05-2019, 06:48 PM
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Since you are that far in the job, and it has 149,000 miles, personally, I would pay to have the cylinders honed/bored over if needed at the machine shop. Usually I let the machine shop install new freeze plugs too.

Some times it's cheaper to have an automotive machine shop to do a complete short block rebuild especially if you don't have all the tools.

Last edited by snippits; 01-05-2019 at 06:55 PM.
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Old 01-06-2019, 02:25 PM
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I agree with the above ^^.

I would at least have all of the cylinders honed to make sure the new rings properly seat and, if needed, bore out the cylinders if the measurements prove that is necessary.

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Old 01-06-2019, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by old87yota View Post
I agree with the above ^^.

I would at least have all of the cylinders honed to make sure the new rings properly seat and, if needed, bore out the cylinders if the measurements prove that is necessary.

Good deal.I got the engine fully torn apart today. Was planning on taking some measurements and hopefully getting it to the machine shop on Tuesday.

I did have a few casualties when removing the head - I for got to disconnect from the fuel filter and the oil pressure sensor. This resulted in me having to set the head back down in a less than ideal position.


noticed this on the hg when I took the head off. There was also a bunch of oil in some of the head bolt holes

from having to set the head down. the dowel marred up the nearby spot

a few of the more serious scratches on the head. Would ya'll have this re surfaced?Just had it resurfaced within the last HG job. Not sure how much they took off though it looks like the max to take off the heads is about .020"
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:31 AM
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FSM has values for min deck and min head height. I would have a shop do both surfaces if still in spec. (You could also go to min on both and order an adjustable cam adjuster. You "could" get a bit more compression out of the engine that way. :p )
Blow the oil out the head bolt holes with compressed air and clean the threads. Chase them, if possible.
Get it honed if you can get away with it. Else, bore and hone - then order pistons.
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ev13wt View Post
FSM has values for min deck and min head height. I would have a shop do both surfaces if still in spec. (You could also go to min on both and order an adjustable cam adjuster. You "could" get a bit more compression out of the engine that way. :p )
Blow the oil out the head bolt holes with compressed air and clean the threads. Chase them, if possible.
Get it honed if you can get away with it. Else, bore and hone - then order pistons.
Good deal.I just checked the deck height of my head and it came out to about 3.1235 - 3.1250 (crappy harbor freight caliper hence the range) so I think Im going to have it shaved down again. I am hoping with a slight resurfacing of the head and block that I'll still be within the .020" limit.

Dropped off my block, rods, and crank at the machine shop today. He seemed kind of concerned about the pistons and think that they need to be bored. With dish washing it, freeze plugs, decking, boring, and grinding and polishing the crank I should be looking at about 300 dollars. I don't think I had the cylinder boring in my prev estimate.

What engine rebuild kits do ya'll like? I know engnbldr was a favorite but I hear he is retired now. I have been eying the LC Engineering Economy kit here - https://www.lceperformance.com/Econo...-p/1010112.htm

Seems like a good price. I am on a budget but Im not trying to put [email protected]&! parts on the thing either, ha.
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Old 01-08-2019, 12:39 AM
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LCE or 22reperformance are my favs. With the engine out, get a new fuel filter in there. Replace the "coolant passage on the back of the head" gasket as well. Also do the rear main seal and, why not, the thrust bearing for the clutch.
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Old 01-08-2019, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ev13wt View Post
LCE or 22reperformance are my favs. With the engine out, get a new fuel filter in there. Replace the "coolant passage on the back of the head" gasket as well. Also do the rear main seal and, why not, the thrust bearing for the clutch.
You know it's funny. I just replaced that back of the head gasket because it was leaking after I put the head back on. I think I had the engine out the truck in the same amount of time that it took me to replace that gasket with the engine in the car, ha!. But yes Im going to replace it while it's out - cheap insurance for not scratching my hands to all hell.
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