If you have access to a wobbly/swivel head Snap on ratchet 3/8" and a 17mm regular socket you can get those two top bell housing bolts off no problem. As many of them as I do I have never had a problem gettin those free. Cant do it without a swivel head ratchet. Don't use extensions, no need for that headache. Just get up on the motor where you can get the ratchet back in there and make sure and loosen to the RIGHT side... the driver side :}

I have test driven trucks with a rod knock and I have noticed under decent load the water temp will go up. I have seen that happen a number of times. Friction I reckon. It had to be knocking pretty good but when these trucks come to me they are usually barely hanging on LOL

 

Take pictures of all the wiring and vaccum hoses. You do have a label under the hood where which hose goes, but it's better.
Buy some large sandwich bags, a black permanent marker and a red permanent marker. Always group the bolts you remove together and throw in a label. Easiest is a cardboard that you just stick the bolts into in the order they come out. https://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f...G3515.jpg.html

Remove the crossmember and support the transmission.
Remove the cables at the computer and pull them through the firewall. Lay the harness on the engine.
Remove ground cables and fuel lines.
Remove down tube holder, remove exhaust manifold and tie it away from the engine.
Loosen the engine mounts and either lift or lower the transmission so you can get at those two retard bolts.
Hang transmission though the cab from an engine hoist. Be carefull, those pesky guys can kill your windshield if you push wrong. :p
Support the engine with the recommended SST: 1" block of wood under oil pan. Oh wait. Well, you will figure it out.
Remove transmission, slide out from under the truck.
Hang engine, remove mounting bolts
Remove engine.



You can do it in 4 hours easy.

Rebuild engine with lots of pictures or a cool stop motion vid.
Make various threads.
Install engine.
Mark bolts you have torqued final with a red p-marker.
Do not forget the transmision supports

Then, you can enjoy this.


Looking forward to your vid!

​​​​​​​p.s. I removed and installed it by myself. Lots of getting up to position things 1/5th of an inch, but very doable.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by the last few lines.

Currently, I have the wiring harness disconnected and laid over engine, p/s and other front end engine stuff out of the way.

Do you mean tie the transmission up so it's not hanging once it's separated from the engine?

I was hoping to just loosen the bellhousing bolts, hang the engine and pull it away and then lift it out all on the hoist.Not sure if that's the best way though.

Also, am I able to just undo the motor mounts with the two nuts and bolts (on each mount) or do I need to undo the 4 bolts where the mount actually bolts to the block (see below picture, so far I have undone the 2 nuts and bolts on each mount). Picture here - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eL6...ew?usp=sharing

 

and this is kind of a dumb question. But is it possible to remove the engine and then push the truck out of my garage (only have a one car so space is tight)? Or should I push it out of the garage first and then remove the engine. Normally wouldn't be a big deal but its already 30 degrees here in WI, haha.

and also have you all ever had to remove the steering linkage so the oil pan can clear it?

 

You don't need to hang the tranny by an engine hoist. If you have a floor jack support the tranny with it from underneath. You can lay the tranny on the front diff, pull the floor jack then push the truck out of the garage. shorten your chain on your picker if it is going to hit the ceiling then pull the motor and push the truck out. No, you don't need to remove any steering linkage. Keep the oil pan on and pull the whole thing out.

 

Ah I should mention that I have a 2wd so no front diff for me. Trying to think if there is anything else I can lay it on up front. hm.
maybe a ratchet strap around the tranny and frame fails?

 

All these questions are now bubbling up -

Do I need to pull the starter? See some different conflicting information on this out there.

 

yes pull the starter, it bolts to the bellhousing...

 

you have a two wheel drive. No difference really. Comes out about the same. Yes the starter has to be removed PRIOR to pulling the motor. May take a little wiggling to free it from the tranny. Go slow. As the two (motor and tranny) start to separate you'll have to raise and lower the picker slightly to get the two to completely separate. On the horizontal plane the tranny stays the same. In other words the tranny does not move back and forth. It does, however, move side to side and up and down. This is crucial to pay attention to! There is approximately 5 to 7 inches of area the two have to cover to completely separate. Once the two are free slowly jack up the motor and pull back on the picker. At this point you will see what needs to be done.

 

Good deal, I think I have everything ready to go. I cracked the 2 hard to get to bell housing bolts - good call on the swivel head ratchet. Starter removed. Though I'm sure I forgot something, ha.

I don't have a engine hoist so Im trying to time it so I only have to pay the 18 dollars to rent it for 4 hours.

my game plan for tomorrow is:
-to rent a engine hoist first thing
-support trans with jack
-remove bellhousing bolts and trans support pieces (the 14mm bolts)
-attach hoist and very carefully pull it away from transmission
-when its covered that 5-7 inches and cleared the spline. slowly jack it up (with hoist) until it clears the engine bay area

sounds about right?

what exactly do you mean by its crucial to pay attention to the side to side and up and down motion of the trans - as to not lift the picker too much before its separated?

I was thinking I could maybe slightly jack the trans up while its still attached to make it easier to pull the motor away but we will see.

 

Sounds good. Make sure and take off the clutch slave cylinder. Tucked in behind it is one of the bigger bell housing bolts.. Takes a 17mm.
It is crucial to remember the trans doesn't move from front to back. The engine moves forward toward the front and up and out. The slightly side to side and up and down movement will help you to separate the two. Sometimes they want to stay together even though one of the two has decided the relationship is through. Sometimes one will want to hang on and keep the relationship going as long as possible. But it is not to be, they must separate. Like a divorce lawyer you need to get in there and dissolve the marriage.
You might need to slightly (SLIGHTLY) jack up the trans and lower the motor and vice versa. I have had them separate in less than 10 seconds and some have taken me a few hours. Same goes for the installation of the engine.

 

I had to yank a motor a few times with my tractor. I was on dirt and a picker wouldn't work. LOL

 

Is the divorce lawyer in this case a large pry bar? haha

 

Oh, I just read somewhere that someone said to remove the torque converter bolts (I have an AT), to remove engine. Is this true?

EDIT:

According to this, it seems like I may be best off just unbolting the tc as to not have to fiddle with trying to get it to seat on install of the engine- https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...ing-a340h.html

speak now or forever hold your peace

 

Yes remove the torque converter from the flex plate. When it goes back together there are two indexing parts you want to be aware of on the converter. Make sure you set it tdc before it goes out and when it goes back in.

 

Yeah you can strap it to the frame.

 

Alright, after two hours of finagling, I finally got the engine to separate from the trans. It's on the engine stand and awaits break down.

So I did it at TDC before pulling it but I think it may have gotten moved around while I was wiggling it out. I looked at the torque converter but i did not see any indexing parts. I know some folks had mentioned that there TC's had studs but mine does not.

 

All good reporting, except ....

Take pictures. Feel free to post them here. Someone might spot something important that you overlooked. If not, they will still help someone else in the future.

 

You have this bit, only not bent. It fits into the recess in the crankshaft and through the flexplate..

 

Sorry ya'll, ended up going home for a week to visit my family and also took a bit of time repairing a hole in the cab (right about where the ecm sits) and repairing the return and evap fuel lines (both were quite rusted. Luckily it looks like the fuel 5/16 send line has been replaced while the other 2 - 1/4 lines had not, but they are now

Did a very thorough cleaning session on the garage today and am hoping to finally start breaking down the engine tomorrow.

My plan is to just remove the upper plenum and leave the lower intake and exhaust manifold attached to the head (and just lay the wiring harness over the head) and remove the head as I just replaced intake and exhaust gasket with OEM gaskets.

so far I've been referencing this video series - and have read through the 'cylinder block' FSM literature a handful of times - http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhake...2RE/9cylin.pdf

I purchased a 0-1, 2-3, 3-4 micrometers and a telescoping gauge set (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-piec...-set-5649.html) Was able to find some pretty affordable used starret mirometers that measure out to .001. Was going to bring my micrometers to the machine shop to compare measurements (yep, I am sure to drive the machine shop guy crazy with all of my crazy s@#!, ha).

I am planning on taking the crank and block and possibly the rods to be checked at the machine shop, but that being said, I still want to check the measurements my self just as a layer of making sure everything is good to go. Was also going to have them tank wash the block. Don't think the block needs decked but I will see what they say.
Also plan on plastigaging all main and rod bearings before final assembly -- for anyone reading and is not sure which they need... you need the green plastigage.

Things that I am definitely looking to replace are:
- rod bearings (size dependent on how much the crank needs ground down)
- main bearings
-rear oil seal
-piston rings
-that pesky gasket on the back of the head that sucks to get to with the engine in lol
-rods if any of them are out of round

Questions:
- Should I have the pistons honed regardless of measurement or just leave it alone if they are in within spec? The FSM outlines taking measurements at the thrust and axial directions at 3 different depths. The tolerance specs are pretty crazy - something like within a .0001 - .0004 range.

- Any thing else to add in regards to replacement or services done at machine shop?

thanks for everyones advice and support so far.