the shop needs to do the valve job, both the seats and the valves have to be cut perfectly, so that the angles match, and there is a leakproof seal.

does the timing cover have to be shaved on top if the head is resurfaced? maybe that's only when the block is decked.

 

@osv the cover only needs trimmed if the block
is decked.

 

[QUOTE=osv;52332313]the shop needs to do the valve job, both the seats and the valves have to be cut perfectly, so that the angles match, and there is a leakproof seal.

That's $140 I'm not spending unless I was buying a new head from engnbldr amigo
By doing a valve job, since I'm grinding the valve and seat against each other with a grinding compound aren't I creating a better seal and cutting them to each other's angle? /QUOTE]

 

You mean, with one of those suction-cup-on-a-stick things? Even Click-and-Clack (Car Talk) refer to that as a "boy's rite of passage," that really is a waste of time. But, if you have (lots) more time than money, I suppose it won't hurt. I just wouldn't expect it to help.

But skipping the $140 for an actual valve grind is defensible, particularly compared to the (relatively low) cost of a rebuilt head.

 

I was going to use a small length of vacuum hose with my drill. It really doesn't do much huh? Damn

I don't have a lot of time but I'm not trying to rush this either. The shop guy told me he had to remove ten thousands of an inch and the exhaust side was worse than the intake side for my resurfacing.
Instill need to take off the pan and I'm waiting for my oem HG and timing kit from engnbldr.... they will probably show up today.
Besides removing the engine what's the best way to get the oil pan out? What I said before about unbolting the motor mounts and using my floor jack on the Trans by the engine? I read that somewhere

 

Pics of my cyl head and new timing cover.
Purple power cleaner, a brush and a red shop rag works good

 

lapping compound is highly abrasive, using it with a drill would be like using a 100-grit sandpaper disc on an orbital sander... that's why you only want to use it with the suction cup on the stick, seat width is important.

all that proper lapping does is knock down rough spots and give you a visual confirmation that you have full sealing all the way around the valve, it is never any kind of a substitute for a real valve job.

if $$ are forcing you to half-ass the build by skipping the valve job, at least put some prussian blue on the seating areas, spin the valve around with the suction cup tool, and confirm that you have matching even surfaces.

ideally that would have meant first keeping the valves matched to the cylinders that they came out of... if the prussian blue test shows blue material left anywhere on the seating surface, it needs a valve job, period.

more on valve jobs and valve lapping here: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=28553.0

did the machinist offer an opinion on whether or not the head needed a valve job?

that head needs to be covered up or in a plastic bag, because dirt will get into the oil if the inside of the head isn't kept clean.

 

When I did my leak down test only the exhaust valve on cyl #3 was leaking. #4 was blown all of them had blow-by.
I was going to only concentrate on #3's exhaust valve but I wanted to clean them all up since all of the exhaust valves had some light pitting on the sealing area but #3 had a large amount of carbon build up on the valve
I did number the valves and springs in zip lock bags as I removed them.
How can I store this head for a day or so besides in a bag? Can I lay it down with the machined surface on a carpeted floor or should I leave it standing?
My wife wasn't a fan of having a cylinder head on our kitchen island

 

i wonder if #4 was leaking through the blown head gasket.

i would wrap it up in something.

 

The fire ring on the HG was split for #4 cylinder. The compression wasn't too bad for it either. I had no idea until I did the leak down test.
I did the valve job on cylinder 3 and put thesprings back on. I put the sparkplug back in and turned the head upside down and filled the chamber with gas. After 90 minutes it was roughly 90% full. I'm sure that valve job must have done some improvement

 

And this ladies and gentlemen is why it's important to remove the oil pan when doing a timing job. I dropped the bolt in and a small chunk is from my timing cover when I broke it but the rest.......?

 

is any of it metal? you could try shining a flashlight up into the piston bore areas, see if any of the piston skirts are broken off.

 

Good idea. I was only able to remove the pan and drain it before I ran out of time and had to leave.
I'll check for metal and check the Pistons in the morning since I'm at work now.

 

Everything looks fine. All that stuff is the plastic chain guide that broke off! I got chewed up on its way down to the pan.
Assembling everything back together now

 

Done!
thanks for your help guys
I'll do a compression and leak down test tomorrow.
It starts, idles and sounds much better now
I need to put that heat shield back on.....

 

congrats on getting running!! nice

 

Thanks osv
I just did the compression test....
#1----178 or 179 psi!!!
#2---180 psi!
#3---180 psi!
#4--- 170 psi.... whatever, I'm happier than when it was a lot less.
Now at 800 rpm my engine vac is at -19 compared to the 14-15 it was before and I still have the leaking vacuum advance on my dizzy
I'm positive this is the original engine with 172k miles

 

You guys think it's necessary to adjust the valves again since "I" did the valve job?

 

Valves need to be adjusted any time the rockers have been taken off the head.

 

I'll do that before I begin to drive it then. Thanks man