Headlight hel
#1
Headlight help
Appologies if this posted in the wrong area.
I have a 92 pickup and trying to convert the headlights over to LEDs. I bought a set off Flebay (ebay) that said fit it. Other than wiring being not being a direct match to the trucks all is good. Now the problem. Matched all wires up from lamps to the trucks. Turn on the lights and have High beams on what should be low. Yes checked and had everything wired up correctly. If hit HI I get all lights still on but reduced power. If swap the hi an low wires round I get Low only and no HI when hit HI. Have tripple checked the truck harness colors and LED lights that am matching all up correctly.
Am completly stumped and at a loss. So much for a simple afternoon swap out.
Any help is much appreciated at this rate.
I have a 92 pickup and trying to convert the headlights over to LEDs. I bought a set off Flebay (ebay) that said fit it. Other than wiring being not being a direct match to the trucks all is good. Now the problem. Matched all wires up from lamps to the trucks. Turn on the lights and have High beams on what should be low. Yes checked and had everything wired up correctly. If hit HI I get all lights still on but reduced power. If swap the hi an low wires round I get Low only and no HI when hit HI. Have tripple checked the truck harness colors and LED lights that am matching all up correctly.
Am completly stumped and at a loss. So much for a simple afternoon swap out.
Any help is much appreciated at this rate.
#2
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Toyota's are "switched ground." Your cheap LED headlamps are designed for switched 12v.
You can buy sets of relays and cables to get your headlamps to work. You can wire in an inexpensive bridge rectifier to do it without moving parts, but if your headlamps don't have a constant-current source, then the two diode-drops will dim them.
OR, you can get real LED headlamps that will work on either switched ground or switched 12v (Truck-lites claims theirs will.)
You can buy sets of relays and cables to get your headlamps to work. You can wire in an inexpensive bridge rectifier to do it without moving parts, but if your headlamps don't have a constant-current source, then the two diode-drops will dim them.
OR, you can get real LED headlamps that will work on either switched ground or switched 12v (Truck-lites claims theirs will.)
#3
Like Scope says ^^^
+1 for Truck-lites.
Guaranteed high quality and spread and cut-off are legit; you would not be joining the legion of a$$holes who blind the Gods with their headlights.
Truck-Lites review: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...l#post52311149
+1 for Truck-lites.
Guaranteed high quality and spread and cut-off are legit; you would not be joining the legion of a$$holes who blind the Gods with their headlights.
Truck-Lites review: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...l#post52311149
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#8
Toyota's are "switched ground." Your cheap LED headlamps are designed for switched 12v.
You can buy sets of relays and cables to get your headlamps to work. You can wire in an inexpensive bridge rectifier to do it without moving parts, but if your headlamps don't have a constant-current source, then the two diode-drops will dim them.
OR, you can get real LED headlamps that will work on either switched ground or switched 12v (Truck-lites claims theirs will.)
You can buy sets of relays and cables to get your headlamps to work. You can wire in an inexpensive bridge rectifier to do it without moving parts, but if your headlamps don't have a constant-current source, then the two diode-drops will dim them.
OR, you can get real LED headlamps that will work on either switched ground or switched 12v (Truck-lites claims theirs will.)
Thanks
#9
Does manuf/vendor say IF lights are polarity-sensitive?
#10
Let me clarify this sense some people can't understand things.
Bought them off ebay. There is nothing in the listing that says they are positive or negitivly switched. All it said was that they would FIT my vehicle. Plug and play setup and no mentioning of anything else. In the listing it showed the 3 terminals and what one was what.(Low,Hi,Ground) When compaired the picture to my ACTUAL headlight wiring plug, headlight didnt match up to the truck. I cut the plug off from the lamps and put new terminals on them and put them in the corasponding correct plug of the trucks harness. The resulds is at the top of the post.
Bought them off ebay. There is nothing in the listing that says they are positive or negitivly switched. All it said was that they would FIT my vehicle. Plug and play setup and no mentioning of anything else. In the listing it showed the 3 terminals and what one was what.(Low,Hi,Ground) When compaired the picture to my ACTUAL headlight wiring plug, headlight didnt match up to the truck. I cut the plug off from the lamps and put new terminals on them and put them in the corasponding correct plug of the trucks harness. The resulds is at the top of the post.
Last edited by wyyotaguy; 12-27-2017 at 01:46 PM.
#11
H4 Conversion Harness More Essential
Stock wiring on first and second (i think) gens makes close to 10 amperes of current for the headlights travel over a convoluted path, including the headlight dimmer-combo switch (stalk).
Results:
1) Reduced actual power that reaches the headlight bulbs, AND
2) Shortened life of the dimer switch contacts.
See 4Crawler's Explanation here. Webpage also shows a schematic if you want to assemble your own.
If you search the forum you'll find schematic for H4 conversion, too.
Repeat:
See comparison between "semi-sealed" (Auto-Pal housing with Sylvania bulbs) and Trucklites here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...l#post52311149
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 12-27-2017 at 01:44 PM.
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