Looks like the spring was used to 8/92:

http://www.utoyot8.com/Picture.aspx?...&ccode=&ppName=

 

Thanks oregon..... I've got the engine back together, but I can get it to start. I posted a video where it kicks over, but dies immediately. I've got to figure this out so I can get it running. The list of things to check this weekend includes:

1. Check for Codes
2. Check Vac. Hoses
3. Check TPS and VAF sensor
4. Cold Start Inj. Switch
5. Coil and Ignitor
6. Check to see if the distributor is off by a tooth or so
7. Check Fuel Pump Relay (OC relay)
8. Check timing belt to make sure it hasn't shifted

I'd appreciate any other suggestions others might have.... I'm not sure what it could be and I'm searching for any possible solution...... Thanks again everyone for all your help.

 

it's not that I'm not watching, but I have nothing to add. sorry man.

 

Geesh, I thought I had gone to the last page and was still stuck on the first page. Oh, well...I was only 3 months behind. lol

 

Do you have a timing light? http://www.harborfreight.com/xenon-t...ight-3343.html Any other way to play with timing isn't just a waste of your time, it can easily damage the engine (detonation). And it's just about the first thing to check when the engine comes together. Setting the timing with a light will also check the rest of the ignition for you (as long as the right wires go to the right plugs). The distributor gear has 13 teeth, so if you're off by, oh, 27 degrees guess what that means.

There is a Circuit Opening Relay (COR). I assume that's what you mean by "OC." This is easy to test; jumper FP to B+ and see if it will run.

Its not the cold start injector time switch. The CSI can only open with the key on start (and then only for a few seconds, as terminated by the CSI Time Switch). If you have a leaky CSI it could flood the engine, but unlikely.

The timing belt didn't shift. You could have installed it wrong in the first place, but if you did any simple check (I'm sure you did), that's not your problem.

Always, always check for codes, but since the engine didn't run very long they probably won't help you.

Good luck!

 

Double check all the electrical connections and ground connections.
And, your list above.

 

Hey Y'all

I have a 1990 Toyota Hilux (Pick Up) 4Y Petrol/LPG Engine manual transmission that has been giving me grief since I bought it 2 years ago, I love my Yota and was brought up on them in the country but now other half is getting sick of it and wants me to sell it

First started with HG, replaced, then Alt, rebuilt, V.Reg replaced now it seems it leaking oil out around the vicinity of the spark plugs area, also had an overheating moment ONCE last week and from what I can read in the manual it could possibly be the Intake manifold gasket?? It wont start now and could it be the timing also?? There is the choccy milk in my oil but surely this couldnt be another blown HG???HOPEFULLY!!!
Im pretty mechanically savvy as my Dads a diesel mechanic for toyotas but I dont want to bother him about this as hes getting too old!! It has been running sweet otherwise and Im wondering if its getting too hot from the lpg and causing pressure build up?
Also had a wee muck up where the air filter wasnt sitting correctly and gunk oozed out into manifold exhaust bit, any comments would be majorly appreciated as Im a bit gutted to have to fix it up and sell on
Thanks

 

Welcome to YotaTech. Your father is never too old to ask. He'd be delighted you thought of him.

"Chocolate Milk" in the oil is from coolant mixed in. The most likely way coolant got in the oil is through the now-leaking head gasket. That was your moment of overheating.

You can check the compression; I'm guessing it is now low, so it won't start. Or, with enough water leaking into a cylinder, it will hydrolock. If you're as lucky as I was it will just blow out the headgasket. If you're not as lucky you can bend a connecting rod.

Sorry for the bad news.

 

Thank you for your reply!!
Fortunately, I know how to change the HG after helping Dad do it last time but something else I noticed as Im taking off air intake is alot of sludge coming in from somewhere? Its dripped into the carb, to me it looks like its coming from the gas(propane) hose attached to the air box? PCV maybe? Or does a blown HG cause that too?
Also, its been running fine and only overheated once then ran fine after topping up...., it has only overheated once where as all the other times, being naive, I let it overheat several times before blowing the h.gasket,
Thanks anyway, I will endeavour to start removing everything to get to the head AGAIN!!!
Great forum by the way!

 

So to extend the list....

1. Check for Codes
2. Check Vac. Hoses
3. Check TPS and VAF sensor
4. Cold Start Inj. Switch
5. Coil and Ignitor
6. Check to see if the distributor is off by a tooth or so
7. Check Fuel Pump Relay (OC relay)
8. Check timing belt to make sure it hasn't shifted
9. Play with timing more...
10. Check all connections including the grounds

Scope.. I've got a timing light and I'm using that, but can I still set the timing if the engine won't start? I apologize, but I don't have much experience with this. My friend that's helping has set the timing on other vehicles before so I thought everything would be fine. I'm not sure what would happen if the distributor was off one tooth. Again, I'm sorry just don't have much experience with it. Can you please explain? Thanks so much....

92 Toy - I know your watching Chime in if you can.... You've already been a big help. Thanks again so much...

 

I've got an update on everything....

I checked the codes, vac. hoses, distributor, fuel pump relay, and played with the timing. I looked for any connections or grounds I might have missed and didn't see any. We check the fuel pump and the pressure was a little low so we swapped out the fuel pump. After doing all of this, the 4runner still won't start and I'm not sure of which direction to move in now that I've checked all these things. Please help with any suggestions... I'm desperate.
Thanks for all the help.....

 

As to the distributor being one tooth off. After doing my HG, timing belt etc I went to start er up and I knew I had spark, fuel and air. It felt like would want to start but would die as soon as I let off the starter. I tried rotating the distributor all the way to one direction and then the other. I discovered that if I advanced the distributor all the way it would run(very rough) for 5 seconds or so and then die. So I jumped the distributor one tooth foward and she started up perfectly. That was my experience. Hope that helps. Good luck

 

I'll give it a shot. I haven't been the one playing with the distributor, but I might have to switch roles this weekend. Thanks! Any other ideas?

 

This may sound really lame but have you checked to make sure the intake hose is tightened all the way to the throttle bodie chamber? After my first head gasket job I simply forgot to tighten the hose from the silencer chamber to the throttle bodie. It would start up for a second, sputter, then die. Then upon restart it would just struggle to start back up. I'm sure you have being you said you checked all vacuum connections but I did the same thing then voila!

 

I'll check it this weekend and see if it's loose, but I'm not sure it'll be the issue. It's not really doing much starting. It barely kicks over and immediately dies. I'll give it a check though.... Thanks!

Any other thoughts?

 

+3 on the distributor being off a tooth. Line the engine up @ tdc again, then check the distributor. Remove the cap, the rotor should point to the #1 cylinder wire node, (approx. 11:00 o'clock).

Also, post a few good current pics of the engine bay, perhaps someone will see something you missed, you know, a fresh set of eyes and all.

You are close

 

I've done that once with the distributor, but I'll do it again. I'll take some updated pics especially while I'm playing with the distributor and let you guys see what you see. Thanks again so much to everyone...... You've all been a big help!

 

Hello, AW1090. This is a very informative thread. I'm not pretending that I am as knowledgable as others here. The symptoms you describe here, briefly turning over and then shutting down is what happened to my vehicle when I messed with the vaf sensor (mass-air flow sensor type component) integrated into round top air cleaner cover.After a replacement from salvage yard vehicle started up and runs fine. Good luck.

 

I gave it another go today with no luck. astynx - I haven't messed with the vaf, but if I find one for cheap I'll give it a shot. I'm almost to the point of towing it to the dealership and hoping they can fix it.

 

Ok... so new word. I've learned that there is a good chance that the ignitor is bad. I've checked everything and even changed the fuel pump so with all this money into it I'm hoping someone will have some advice on where I could get an ignitor. I've look and the cheapest I could find is $210 plus shipping and I just don't have that kind of money anymore. Thanks for everyone's help..... hopefully this will be the solution