alright.... I got to spend a little time with the truck and this is what I found. We've got spark, but the injectors are not receiving a signal from the wiring harness as evident by absence of noid light illumination. I've swapped the ECM with no luck. I'm getting on a little later to do some searching on what could be the cause, but thought I might have someone chime in on what might be wrong. Thanks again for all the help!... I'm not giving up!....

 

Sounds like a wiring issue. if all the injectors are not firing. Power to all the injectors is one common wire, Black and red wire. If three of them are firing and not the other three than track the wires back to the ecu, white and red and a white. check out the wiring diagram here "http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995_4Rnr/Toyota.4Runner.1990.1995/FSM/toyewpdf/vfewdsou/1995/954runne/systemci/eng3r.pdf" page 60, Hope this helps. You're so close, good luck.

 

Hey im new to the forum and im about to replace the heads on my 1995 toyota 4runner any tips or extra things i should do while i have it apart.

and does anyone now how to adjust the valves?

thanks...

 

Hey surfer... there are quite a few things you can do, but are they necessary....that's the question. If you read the first of this thread I talk about some of them and do a little searching.... you should find a ton of threads.
92 toy has a thread that is really detailed..... they rebuilt the entire engine, but you should be able to pull out the head portion of the build

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...thread-197690/

It's good.... has a lot of pics and tons of info... here's another

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...5-3vze-243403/

those should get you started....

 

thanks AW1090...

im looking to start mine next weekend i think im doing a compression test this weekend to see if i need to replace the pistons and rings while im in there.

do you know how to adjust the valves after being installed cuz i have never done it before?

thanks again man.

 

If you haven't already started this check the link in my sig. for the FSM. It tells how to adjust the valves.

 

ok thanks and i wont be starting it until december when i get back from leave.

so it gives me awhile to get more parts and reseach easier ways to do things.

 

Andrew...what's happening.

any progress / ideas? are you driving it without telling us.

nah. I know you are busy / dizzy with school and getting smarted.

 

Sorry, I've been super busy and haven't had a chance to get back on it. I've never worked so hard. I be able to work on it after this next week. I've got a board exam in biochem and gross starts then I'll have a week off. I'm planning on pulling it back apart and tracing the wires, but haven't had any time to research what I'll be doing. We'll see.... Thanks for checking on me.

 

Ok... I know it's been a while, but getting back on it hopefully for the last time tomorrow. This has taken forever to get done. I'm planning on checking the wiring to the best of my ability. I've gotta do a little reading tonight so I'm up on the procedure to check the wiring. I was wondering if I pulling the upper intake off to get a good look at the wiring harness and check everything is there a way to check if the injector plugs are receiving a signal without putting the upper intake and everything back together? Any suggestions about how to get into this?..... Thanks again for everyone's help!!

 

I've got a little update. We went through the wiring and found a short. We got it all fixed up and now have a signal to the injectors, but still can't get it running. It sounded great and like if was going to start up just fine, but once it turned over it ran a little longer than usual and died. I'm not sure what's wrong now.... We're back to square one.... So far I've swapped the ignitor, ECM, gone through the wiring, and shifted the distributor by a couple of teeth either way. I can't get it to run..... any other suggestions on what to try?
Thanks!!

 

ugh. wish I knew what to tell ya. I was all excited reading that, then was all boooo when you said it died again.

 

heheh... Thanks 92toy.... It's good to hear from you. You should've seen my face when it started up. It sounded so good. It does sound so much better I've just got to figure out what else it going on. I have renewed faith that we'll get it running, but I hate that I have to wait for breaks from school to work on it. Thanks again for all your help!!

 

Does anyone have any suggestions on what else to try?..... I've checked the timing, timing belt, checked for codes, and I've found nothing and this truck still isn't running....

 

alright....I'm not sure if anyone is still following this or not. After a little more work, I've learned that the injectors are getting a signal, but it is still a fuel problem. The fuel pump is getting power, but no pressure is building up at the rails... I can only think that the line is clogged somewhere... Any thoughts?

 

Is the fuel pump moving any fuel?

 

Is the fuel pump running? (if you use the FP B+ jumper, things are quiet enough that you can hear the pump from the engine compartment).

How do you know there is no fuel pressure? (I presume you loosened a fitting somewhere, but where?)

If the pump is running, just work your way back loosening fittings until one spurts fuel. If you get all the way back to the tank, you could have a non-pumping pump, or plumbing broken inside the tank. Either way, it's then time to pull the pump.

 

It seems to be pumping out of the tank, but no fuel at the filter. I can hear the pump running when I have the jumper in place, but wasn't sure if there could be a reason it wouldn't run without the jumper and just turning the key.

 

Of your getting fuel to the filter but not past it or through it, I would pull the filter and check it for a clog. When I bought my 90' which looks much like yours actually it was a non- runner. The fuel pump was toast and after I replaced that I found the filter was clogged due to some crud and bad gas being trapped on the elements. You said you have a new one right? Maybe try blowing some compressed air through it to see? Or just try another one, they're only like 20 dollars, it's possicle you got a defective filter it happens. Try tracin those lines really meticulously like scope suggested. You may have a link somewhere. I had to end up doing a custom splice and thread on my set up due to corrected and stripped fittings at the filter........ Came to find I had a line where they travel up to the fuel rails tha had been pinched alongside the firewall base. Replaced and re-fastened then vroom. Best of luck man! I've been out of the Internet for a while buty 3vz is about to under a rebuild here shortly, as soon as the machine work is complete. I will do my best to help you out

Edit: just seen you said it wil only prime with the b+ E1 jumped- fuel pump relay working correctly? I know that test bypasses the relay to test for operation soo perhaps relay or wiring to and from?

 

1. Yes, the fuel pump should NOT run "without the jumper and just turning the key" to ON. It runs with the key on START until there is enough airflow for the VAF to turn on the COR which holds the fuel pump on.

2. If fuel is pumping out of the tank but not making it to the filter, where is it going? Why do you think it is getting out of the tank, and why do you think it's not making it to the filter? It's only a few feet.