Chuckar

All the stuff inside the box labeled 04112 is the valve grind set everything in the diagram labeled 04111 is the full set if you go to this site http://www.toyotapartseast.com/ put your vin# in then when you look at the parts you want hit the more info button and you get picture of the parts.

AW1090

ohh man that's nice.... I think I gonna love that site ... that's perfect and answers the question....thanks chuckar

92 TOY

perfect! cuz I could not recall what the difference was. good deal.

AW1090

Alright.... Starting disassembly on Sunday... I can't wait. I've included a pic of how it sits now since I've had it towed from little rock to conway....

92 TOY

sweet ride.

good luck.

I am working this weekend. Hope to see some good progress by the time I get home Sunday night.

AW1090

Thanks! I've got a couple more pics. I couldn't wait for Sunday so last night we dropped the fluids, pulled the hood and did a few other minor things. While doing this, I noticed quite a bit of oil in the TB, intake, and air filter housing. Does anyone know what might be the cause of this?


The truck when I first got her post manual hubs and a little cleaning...


As she sits today..... a little better shot and a couple of pics for my reference

92 TOY

EYE SPY ISR mod.

replace your PCV valve. not sure, technically, but I think I remember that being the cause of that oil thang.

AW1090

heheh.... yup, did it a ways back. I'll get that PCV valve replaced. Thanks....

AW1090

We got quite a bit done today, but not as much as I would've liked..... We got stuck on the crank pulley bolt.... That one doesn't want to move at all.... broke a couple of adapters, a breaker bar, and two ratchets..... If anyone has any advice on how to approach this next please tell.... until then here are some new pics....


The work space.... and then a little reference....









Here's the cheater we used.....



and I'll finish it up with some broken tools and teaching them young....









There you go.... If anyone has any adivice it would be greatly appreciated otherwise enjoy the pics......

TNRabbit

Do you have an impact wrench? Works every time on mine.

If not, you can use the "bar on the frame" method & hit the starter once really quick~

AW1090

We tried the impact with no success..... I'll search the "bar on frame" method and see if we can try that.....

AW1090

I picked up some steel barstock 2x3/16x4 and some grade 12.9 bolts 8mmx1.25x35mm.... I'll see if that works in the next couple of days to get the crank bolt out and let you guys know....

AW1090

Ok... so a little update. I haven't gotten as far as I would've liked, but working on it again tomorrow with plans of getting the rest of the timing belt stuff off along with a good portion of work on the heads. To update my buying list... I ordered the gasket kit, thermostat, and knock sensor wire from 1sttoyotaparts for $350.93 including tax and shipping. To keep the list updated.....

Rockauto
Dayco timing component kit with belt - pt#95154k1 $72.79 + shipping = $82.23
Aisin Oil Pump - pt#OPT027 OEM#15100-65020 $73.79 + shipping = $83.06

Auto Parts Warehouse
Aisin Water Pump - pt#ASCWPT030 OEM#16100-69225 $55.66 + Free shipping = $55.66

LC Engineering
Head Bolts pt#1024074 $34.95 + shipping = $48.20

1sttoyotaparts = $350.93 with shipping
Engine Gasket kit OEM#04111-65011 $289.39
Knock Sensor wire OEM#82219-35010 $10.46
Thermostat OEM#90916-03079 $19.18

Engnbldr
Head Bolts pt#HBT031 $39.00 + shipping = $45.00ish estimate

So I've got some multiples.... give me your opinions on these. I'm unsure of the advantages of one t-stat over the other as well as the differences between the head bolts and gasket sets from different companies. I plan on calling this week to clear this up a little more, but the only one I can see a difference in are the gasket kits. The one from LC is multi-layered steel, but I'm not sure of the material of the others. I'm also unsure of the advantages in having the MLS gaskets. It's looking on the high end that it's going to run around $620.00 and on the low to run around $444.00 dependent mainly on advice from here on the parts in question.

On the service end:

Rebel Rebuilders (Local Machine shop) $100.00/ea = $200ish
- Clean, pressure test, resurface heads with valve job to include adjustment
Cruzin performance $18.00/ea x 7 = $126.00 + shipping = $140.00ish
- Fuel injector service with flow testing

The service end should run me around $340.00 making a total so far of $784.00 on the low side and the high side coming in at $960.00.

92 TOY

yo.

ever get that bolt off?

I ordered the gaskets from TOYOTA because I felt that they probably had the safest ones to purchase secondary to the fact that they were updated due to previous failures.

I did the head bolts from LC. no particular reason. I'm sure the ones from ENGNBLDR are fine. so, no opinion there.

we did not do a machine shop service on the heads. that's the only part that ever makes me lose sleep on our build.

AW1090

That's the plan for today. It's been a chore trying to get it off. We've broken a number of tools and eventually had to give up. I'm hoping to make some good progress today by getting it out and getting done with as much of the rest as we can before the day ends.

I went ahead with the toyota gasket kit as well. I like sticking with toyota and figured they know what's best. I also picked up the thermostat and knock sensor wire from 1sttoyotaparts so all of that should be on its way. I'm still reading about the head bolts, but leaning toward Engnbldr. I've got the machine shop lined out, but I've gotta get the heads off.

I'll post this evening and let you know how everything goes....

92 TOY

not to put salt in you wounds but......the crankshaft bolt was waaaaaay too easy on my son's. ZERO effort. the cam bolts.....well....those were terrible.

what is the core issue? can you hold it steady and it just won't budge? give it a quick yank, just like an impact gun. 6 point impact socket on a 1/2 drive bar with a cheater pipe even made quick work on the one on my 22re.

"tap the starter" is a fairly well documented trick that horrified me to try........but.....ya know, may be the last resort for you.

pics...lots of pics....need pics man.

PS....go to HARBOR FREIGHT and "buy" the 3/4'' drive torque wrench for like $60 or something like that. you are going to need it later to get that bolt back on. use it to get it off. it's a quite manly tool. if you can break that tool, then you should set fire to your truck. as it was never meant to be fixed and apparently does not want to be fixed.

AW1090

Crazy... It's the opposite here. The cam bolts weren't easy to get off, but they weren't horrible either. We had a little problem holding it steady, but eventually got it set up so it held still.... This is when we broke the 1/2" breaker bar with a cheater on it... I posted the pics on the previous page. I've got some of the truck and two showing a few of the broken tools....

We'll give it another go today and see what we can get done.... I plan on making the tool with the barstock and getting after it. I can't do the starter trick because the battery is dead. As the last ditch effort, I'll run to harbor freight and grab that 3/4" wrench..

I'll post additional pics tonight.... thanks for the advice!...

92 TOY

for real, you're gonna need that wrench for about 1 minute at the very end....I think the torque is like 225ft lbs or something like that.

there is also another desperation measure to get that bolt off......and it is to cut the collar. as I understand it, the collar is slightly concave or convex shaped and provides that little extra SOB more oomph by prying the bolt away from the pulley when fully tightened. cutting the collar relieves it of that portion of the equation.

AW1090

so I fixed the bar stock into the tool that's been mentioned and sure enough the bolt came out like it had never been any trouble..... Once done, we had a little trouble with the crank pulley/gear, but it soon came off as well.... I think we're almost done with pulling everything off..... In the process I broke a couple of injector connectors along with a few other things, but nothing too bad.... here are some pics







































I know there are a ton of pics, but some are for reference and we got a lot done today. There was oil on everthing and something tells me that wasn't good. I've got a shot of the cold start injector as well. All the injectors looked like this or worse. I'm hoping they can be cleaned properly so they'll work and I won't have to buy new ones.... On a side note, does anyone have the part # for the oem fuel injector harness and the four crank pulley bolts?... Hope you enjoyed. The rest will hopefully come off tomorrow...

92 TOY

good job.