AW1090

Thanks!... I wish I had a better camera. The pics are a little fuzzy. I posted so fast that I discovered this morning that I left out some pics. We got a lot done and I know I didn't discuss every pic, but everything seemed to come off pretty easily after the crank bolt and gear. I got a little overwhelmed after pulling off the lower intake manifold. Once I saw all the parts we've pulled off and started thinking about all the vacuum hoses I decided we needed to take a break for the day.Here's the rest of the pics.

rworegon

You are sending those injectors out to be cleaned at a place like www.witchhunter.com I hope.

Be sure to replace the knock sensor wire and inspect, then reseal the metal coolant bypass tube.

A couple of sources for replacement wiring plugs:
http://www.connectorsfast.com/
http://www.repairconnector.com/

AW1090

Yup, sending them to cruzin performance, but not sure why. After reading over the pages for each, I'm thinking of switching to witchhunter. They describe the process that they use and it seems to be a little more thorough.

rworegon

I used witchhunter and had great results. Mine were not near that ugly to start with though.

92 TOY

vote for Witchunter from me.

do yourself a favor....big box (or 3) in the back of the 4runner and start bagging and tagging and get those parts off of the flat surfaces and floor. you're gonna step on or knock them over. get them out of your hair and you will feel less overwhelmed.

you can also label or organize them in some sort of..."exhaust / gas / intake / front" etc etc etc...cuz my OCD makes me do that kinda stuff.

sorry couldn't post much more than 2 words before...had to go to work. amazing how much forward progress you can make in short time.will feel much better when you reach that crucial point when you start putting stuff back on.

AW1090

rworegon -
I'm probably switching to witchhunter. I'm unsure of the metal coolant bypass tube. Is it the tube under the middle of the lower intake? If so, where do I need to ensure I reseal it because I took it off today.

92 toy -
Will do... I've already started collecting boxes. It drives me crazy to have everything on the floor all over the place so I don't know where everything is or if it's getting knocked around

On a side note, does anyone know why or what would cause pools of oil to be on top of my pistons? I'm unsure, but I think it's indicative of bad rings so this job may get more complicated. Also, does anyone have a part # for the fuel injecter plugs?....

rworegon

Yes, it is that tube right there by the knock sensor as you described. The FSM calls for FIPG at the front where the two bolts attach it to the block. Have you looked at the FSM?
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...5/contents.htm

On the injector plug, there should be a 5 digit number. That is the last 5 digits of the part number.... add 90980-xxxxx the five digits and you have the part number.

http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.ph...harness+repair

Do all the pistons have oil on them?

AW1090

sweet... thanks rworegon. We've been following the fsm, but I didn't see anything about sealing that back up, but thanks again!

rworegon

Excellent on the FSM!

They hide sealing the bypass tube it in the Engine Block section page EG2-127, step 16:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...neme/cylin.pdf

AW1090

So I'm a little confused about the FIPG... There are areas of the FSM that state to place seal packing to certain components. Is this always FIPG or is there a "seal packing" material that I should be buying? I've looked online and it seems there are multiple types of toyota FIPG. How many and which should I buy or am I going to need to buy them as I reach their part number in the FSM?

As far as cleaning goes, I wanted to see what you guys thought was the best approach at cleaning these parts because everything is covered in oil and grime. 92 toy, I know you like the orange goop, but should I just buy a big tub and scrub away while rinsing occasionally or what?.... I don't have access to a pressure washer so that's out. I know Varsol is used in many shops to clean parts, but I'm not sure I could buy or would even want to use that stuff on these parts. Any thoughts on this would be great....

Lastly, I've been thinking and have decided that with the pools of oil on top of the pistons it would probably be best to do a ring job as well. As I've skimmed through the FSM, it doesn't seem to be much more work to pull the pistons so I figured I'll get it done now instead of having to pull the engine apart again in 6-12 months. I'm doing this while the engine is still in the truck, but think I should be able to drop the oil pan, remove a couple of parts, and the pistons should pull right out of the top. Correct? I'm planning on replacing the main bearings while the crankshaft is out because it just seems like I should. Ok... I'm rambling a bit, but wanted to get you guys thoughts on this and any answers for the questions above..... Thanks!!

I almost forgot... I'm referring to these things and forgot to post the pics. These are the most recent ones I've got with the heads coming off. I took a ton of pics so this is only a portion of them. Sorry that some of them are fuzzy, but you can see the pools of oil I'm talking about on the pistons. I took a shot of each set of valves, but I've only posted the driver's side here. I'll post the passenger side later today....

TNRabbit

HOLY HELL. Ring job? Wow.

There is red & black FIPG. Red is for oil applications, black for everything else.

AW1090

I'm assuming that's your response to all the oil. I thought that is what it's called when you replace the various rings on each of the pistons and I thought this would fix the problem of all the oil on top of the pistons. Am I mistaken here or on the right track?
Thanks for clearing up the FIPG info, but I'm only seeing orange and black on ebay... Are these two, orange and black, in the link below the ones I should be using?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=...g+80&_osacat=0

92 TOY

ummm..."Holy Hell" was gonna be my response (to the oil)

#1. this is the portion of the cartoon when you say to yourself that you are 99 9/10% of the way to pulling the motor and you give in to peer pressure and pull the motor and put it on a stand and then you find some guy who just pressure washed his deck and you give him $30 to borrow his pressure washer until you are done with it.

#2. ORANGE GOOP is the way to go.

#3. we bought RED and BLUE thread sealer and BLACK TOYOTA FIPG (found it on ebay for like $12) ( I think ORANGE is what you use when reassembling a DIFF or something....not gonna need it)

#4. I don't know jack about doing rings

#5. I have no money but I can spend everyone's money like there's no tomorrow. there have been several times when I have cursed the japanese and their boneless baby hands when I have been contorted in such a way that I did not know I could contort. that's gonna be much worse doing it with the motor still in the engine bay. when you reach the part about taking the oil pan off....and putting it back on....and reassembling the exhaust, you will understand. it's about 6 or 8 or so bolts from the tranny, 4 bolts from the motor mounts and probably some other stuff i am neglecting to remember and then the motor is free. I refused to do this when I did my 22re and made it impossibly difficult on myself.

I still consider myself a NEWB. but I like to figure stuff out. and when someone like ME says pull the motor.....ya should. it helps to have an experienced helper....which I did when pulling the motor, but for the rest of the build it was me and Joe and the FSM / Haynes and YOTATECH until it came time to finally button it up on that last day. Joe and I even installed the motor by ourselves.

AW1090

1. I think it would be much easier pulling the engine and doing everything, but I don't think I have the cash to buy an engine hoist and stand plus no friend/guy with a pressure washer.... I know it'll be a pain, but I'm thinking if I pull the trans I might be able to get my brother in law to rebuild it. He wouldn't help with the engine stuff so I might be able to guilt him into working on the tranny with me..

2. I'll pick up some orange goop.... Is it not mainly used for clean your hands with?

3. Will the FSM specify which/where to use the red or blue thread locker? Do I need to buy the red FIPG that rabbit mentioned?

4. I'll let you know how it goes.... I think I'm getting way in over my head...

5. hehehe.... I got a good laugh out of this. While we were pulling the heads off I was standing in the engine bay and had a similar thought... I don't know if I've ever twisted like that to get to some of those bolts. My back didn't like it at all.... lots of advil.

You guys are the helpers.... the fine people of yotatech... It's nice to know after being so overwhelmed that I can ask my questions here.... Thanks again!!

92 TOY

my experience with the ORANGE GOOP s that it is an excellent cleaner and leaves no residue like the other stuff that is "gentle" on the hands and leaves residue.

engine stands..search CRAIGSLIST...when you're done with it, it just takes up an odd amount of space and sometimes people just get rid of it out of disgust. NEW from Harbor Freight...I think I paid like $40. a hoist is a lot harder to find, let alone rent. I had to borrow a hoist (and still have it) from a Doctor I work with. If you were to peel the motor down to just the block, you would be amazed at how small it actually is....but still weighs quite a bit.....I say this because you could likely fab up something with a chain hoist and A-frame or to your garage ceiling or something like that......in other words...put out a call for help for an engine hoist that you will need to borrow for a grand total of 20 minutes x 2.

we did not need the Orange FIPG. Just black. and the only place I remember using RED thread locker was on the flywheel bolts.....might be other spots, just don't recall.

anyways, I'm the wrong guy to ask about experience for doing this motor in the bay...there was so much oil sludge everywhere in the engine bay that it became necessary to deskank everything the way we did.

I am quite sure this can all be done with the motor in the bay, just a huge pain in the posterior. likewise, I am not sure or not if you can do rings with the motor in. no experience there.

92 TOY

spending you money

near you

http://littlerock.craigslist.org/for/3041509214.html

not bad....find a coupon somewhere

http://www.harborfreight.com/750-lb-...and-32915.html

or buy a new one

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-c...ane-93840.html


and here's the good stuff...

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallo...ump-43222.html

AW1090

sweet... thanks for the links... I'll check it out just not sure I can swing the costs

AW1090

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...0/index15.html

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...0/index16.html

For reference to your thread 92 toy, I like these diagrams with the part numbers...

Sin

Subscribed...I need to do this to my truck, but damn it looks scary!

AW1090

Yup.... I hope I make it through.

92 toy -
Where did you find the diagrams with the part numbers? I looked on toyotapartszone and can't find them anywhere....