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Thanks for starting the discussion on CONVERTING TAILGATE TO STORAGE, Cory and DMiller!
Let's discuss how to convert tailgate to storage here. It would look like this. However, I would relocate the hinge to the lower side, so it can be opened even when tailgate is closed, it opes up when tailgate is closed, and IF it accidentally opens while tailgate is closed, contents are less likely to spill out.
Originally Posted by coryc85
A few months ago I spoke with member rustEd about making me a steel tailgate cover that hinged and would allow me to open it and store some stuff in there. Since I have a soft top I don't need the rear glass or the motor, etc. So I opened up the tailgate to look in there and I'm a bit disappointed. Because of the way the door latch mechanism works, you have to keep that big metal bracket in the center, so even if I remove the motor, glass and regulator, I still won't be able to really get anything down in there. Any ideas?
Originally Posted by DMiller
I am about to dive into this as well for the exact same reasons. Are you trying to keep it lockable with the original pull lock? If not, here is a solution....
If you get down to basics, there is a latch on each side that uses a cable to pull the latch and disengage the gate on both sides. My current idea is to go directly to the latch sides and run the same or new cable to a inset lockable twist latch on the inside or outside of the gate. This twist latch will be offset to one side allow for complete removal of the original motor junk and allow for storage within the gate. Its lockable with a key which may even be more ideal when you are running your soft top...
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Jan 28, 2018 at 07:45 PM.
5) The 4Runner is based on the pickup. Pickups had been getting camper shell / caps for a long time. What is so hard about using the already popular flip-up window?
Pins in uchannel along the side. A magnetic spring catch system, or hoop latch for a closure mechanism. This allows it to open and slide up/out for access from inside and still gives you some place to sit your coffee pot with the gate and hatch open. You could even bifold it for a larger surface.
For a swing up window you need to find one that fits in the opening, smaller is fine you can add a flange for it to rest on.
The gate latch can be relocated by moving the cables and the "cam" to the top section behind the metal. You'll need a custom bracket and push rod for the handle.
Thanks for starting a single subject thread Ray. Maybe not totally hopeless after all. That wagon gear storage panel is great. I wanted to get rustEd to make me a panel because I love the rolled metalwork he has done. I just got back from camping with my 2 boys and really wishing a had just a bit more storage in the truck. I think step 1 for me is to remove the glass and motor, then step 2 is to figure out how to relocate/Fab a bracket and cam system to open gate. I think my preference would be to keep original handle, but not a deal breaker either way.
Sweet! Outdoors with family is fun. My wife and I just visited Sonoma coast. Slept in the truck for 4 nights. No worrying if sheets at hotel were washed or not, and we knew that slobber on sleeping bag, if any, are ours - LOL!
Originally Posted by coryc85
.. ...I think step 1 for me is to remove the glass and motor, then step 2 is to figure out how to relocate/Fab a bracket and cam system to open gate. I think my preference would be to keep original handle, but not a deal breaker either way.
Yes, logical order.
Do you think those linkage from handle to middle bracket are to connect to the door latches, and not just to link to the lock which is in turn operated by window motor? (Motor mechanism automatically pushes lock down to locked position while raising the window.) You can see that better after you remove the glass and motor.
I also think that because panel will not be supporting the window mechanism, you can maximize opening like above.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Jan 29, 2018 at 08:12 PM.
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Yes, logical order.
Do you think those linkage from handle to middle bracket are to connect to the door latches, and not just to link to the lock which is in turn operated by window motor? (Motor mechanism automatically pushes lock down to locked position while raising the window.) You can see that better after you remove the glass and motor.
I also think that because panel will not be supporting the window mechanism, you can maximize opening like above.
It's been awhile since I replaced the handle for my 94, but from memory it has stiffing ribs attached to the outer sheet metal. One perside that correspond with the cut outs in the inner panel.
You would convert the pull on the cam (latch mechanism) to a push type or vise versa (sorry long day and I got smacked in the head with a pallet of diaper)..
The lock system is something I hadn't even thought about, and its pretty important on a first gen in California judging by all the stolen vehicle reports..
A quick look at your photo above says you can move that whole brass bracket into the top third of the gate. This keeps the locking system intact, requiring new custom rods for latch release and lock mechanism.
A quick look at your photo above says you can move that whole brass bracket into the top third of the gate. This keeps the locking system intact, requiring new custom rods for latch release and lock mechanism.
Yes custom, but should not be too difficult. Copy mechanism on the FJ60. Other than the roll-up window mechanism on the 4runrer, the tailgate should be about the same on both trucks. I don't see the need for linkage between the handle, the lock and the latches on the side to go that low.
I searched last night but did not find any.
Ok, starting to remove the glass and motor. I think maybe it's going to be easier to not reuse the factory tailgate handle, but instead use a latch for each side. I think I'll make a plate to go over the small holes on each side of tailgate, cut hole in this plate for latch and use big center hole for storage.
So with this plan I will have to unlatch both sides at same time, which is not ideal...hmm, maybe I'll rethink that after I get this glass and motor out.
Glass and motor/regulator are out, I had to use a battery charger to apply 12v to motor to get glass up halfway.
With everything out, the torsion bar on tailgate holds it a bit higher than normal, hopefully with some tools stored inside it will lay flat.
The release cables will reach all the way to the location of original handle a so if I can run up some other handle to fit here that would be great.
Ray - the links are cables from the arm of the door latch mechanism to the regular bracketry in the middle. I could use a separate lever to activate each side, but that would be a pain I think. I'm trying to think of how to build a bracket to hold the cables near the original tailgate handle location, and ideally I could reuse the original handle. I don't think you want anything sticking up in that area so that you can slide things on and off the tailgate. I've got an idea to make a bracket that uses 2 of the regulator bolt holes, this bracket would hold the end of the 2 cables, and then a new push rod from the original tailgate handle would push down and that motion would push the cables down as well. But I have to make this bracket, pushrod, and make some other piece of something to capture the end of the cables to so the pushrod can push them. It's tricky, but retaining the stock handle would be ideal I think.
Ray - the links are cables from the arm of the door latch mechanism to the regular bracketry in the middle.... ideally I could reuse the original handle.
Maybe a pulley system to convert handle pull to pulling/pushing sideways?
I don't think you want anything sticking up in that area
Oh yeah. I meant install the cam-operated lock bars inside the tailgate.
Jan 28, 2018 | 08:34 AM
