I asked this in my build thread with no luck, so hoping more people read this subforum. I have searched on and off since January, read many, many, many idle threads, but I have yet to find this specific question.

How exactly is the truck supposed to idle with an Auto Trans? I know it's supposed to be 850, and I would assume that means out of gear, or your Park/Neutral idle. What about in gear? If my Park/Neutral idle is set to 850, it drops to around 500 or 600 once I shift to Drive/Reverse. 500 is a little shakey for my liking.

Is this functioning normally? Or do I have a gremlin to chase? Should the "Park/Neutral" idle and "Drive/Reverse" idle both be 850? Common sense tells me it should drop a bit once it's in gear/has a load on the engine.. but is it dropping too much?

Other Auto Trans drivers please chime in. Any info/experience is appreciated.

Thanks guys!

 

Per the manual http://web.archive.org/web/201210210...nce/2maint.pdf , the idle speed is set in neutral. (800 for the 3VZE, 850 for the 22re rwd, 750 for 22re 4wd. ) Mine does drop a bit when in gear. I have mine set at about 850, FWIW.

 

Excellent info, thanks Scope! I really need to get my hands on an FSM for my truck..

What does yours drop down to in gear?

Edit: Any other A/T drivers chime in with their experience?

 

Since posting this question my idle adjust screw has decided to stop adjusting my idle, so it would appear I have some other issues. Time to do some more forum searching!

 

Vacuum leak on the engine block side of the throttle plate. Make sure you have a good oring on the idle screw and cinches it all the way down. If it still starts and idles you have a stuck idle valve, PVC valve, or a hole in the brake booster line. You can check the brake booster by pressing the brake to the floor and holding it, it should sink closer to the floor when the engine fires and starts drawing vacuum. The PCV valve can be temporarily capped off (plug the line on the VAFM, which is the PCV system inlet also). Finally the idle air valve or aux air valve, pick your term it's the same purpose and similar functionality, is kind of a pita to get to but if the idle screw port isn't blocked completely the engine should fire with the aav covered and the screw all the way out.

 

Thanks Co_94.

It starts and idles, but sounds terrible. Seems to drive okay. Will be attempting to take it to work in about a half hour, if I can make it there I can get an O ring from the business next to us. I have suspected I have needed a new one for awhile, I can easily spin my adjustment screw by hand with very little resistance.

I also seem to be burning some oil lately, which I've never done before, so that's interesting.

Hopefully I can make er to work and do some diagnosing there.

 

Update: Made it to work okay, 4runner was sputtering and hesitating slightly on initial take off, which seemed to stop once warm.

Pulled my Idle Adjust Screw, the O ring is very, very flat, will grab one later today and see if that helps anything.Otherwise will continue to research the PVC Valve at the AFM, and will test my AAV.

Let the diagnosing continue!

 

I will move this to my build thread, as I'm definitely dealing with more than an idle issue.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...runner-308116/