Alright,
ive seen this problem posted probably 30 times and investigated all that applied to me with no resolution.

Things I’ve done/checked:
New fuel pump
new distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, coil
checked timing 15 times (even 0 degrees and 5 degrees for efi)
Checked all fuses including under fuse block on fender
new fuel filter
new starter
jumped with multiple batteries
bypassed by jumping fp and +B
checked neutral switch
checked grounds and ensured good contact
New AFM (won’t start with unplugged either)
Igniter seems fine (cleaned with electrical cleaner)
Pulled oil pump to make sure the chain didn’t jump time (marks and silver link line up)
New air filter

It threw 2 codes once - egr and afm
wouldnt start with egr did a delete and no start.

Im basically out of ideas and money. I’m one foot from pulling it out into the desert and setting it on fire.

Any help welcome.

 

It won’t throw codes anymore. Says normal operation regardless of how many times I crank or leave it.

 

Have you checked fuel pressure? Fuel pressure regulator could be mucked up.
Will it start for a few seconds if you spray starter fluid in the intake?
Have you checked for spark?

 

Its getting fuel to all the cylinders and spark to all 4 cylinders. Has brand new plugs, distributor, rotor, cap, and coil. New AFM and no fuses blown (even under the plastic fuse block on the fender). Tomorrow I am going to recheck all my vacuum lines and make sure I have no leaks. I am totally at a loss. Ready to burn it to the ground.

 

You insist it has fuel and ignition, this leaves only a problem with the valve timing and thus compression.

Are you getting anything even vaguely like ignition of fuel in the cylinder?

You method for checking the valve timing is flawed, the location of the bright link is not relevant. Set it to TDC on number 1, verify by probing the piston with something like a straw or bamboo stick, remove the valve cover and verify the cam dowel is in the 12 position.

Verify the distributor is rotating.

 

The manual says to line up the links and ensure the marks on the cam and crank gears align with the silver links when set to TDC on cylinder #1 compression stroke. So cam gear mark at about 11:30, dowel at 12 and crank gear mark at 6 o’clock. When I do that cylinder #1 is flush with the top of the head. I can see it inside using a flashlight and feel it with a piece of wood. When I’m that position both valves on cylinder #1 are able to move. I replaced the distributor from that position sliding it in at about 12 o’clock and the rotor turned as I slide it in and turned to the #1 position.

This is the kicker: After rebuild using the exact same method it fired up immediately. I immediately adjusted timing and it ran perfectly and idled perfectly at 750rpm. Came out the next day and it wouldn’t start. Only turn over.

 

I stopped reading at the crank keyway is set at 6, that's wrong should be 12.

 

I would start with the fuses, look for critter damage to wires, and go over all my grounds and battery connections.

 

i didn’t say crank key way. I said the gear mark on the crank gear for the timing chain. If you don’t want to help don’t answer. No need to be rude.

 

I’ll find help somewhere else. Internet forums are not for me.

 

a member of the instant gratification crowd. good luck on your quest.

 

Well I'll be damned there is a dimple down, so you know you have enough links on the tension side...

Anyways if it was working, then overnight doesn't want to work any more the odds are very high you forgot something you did the night before, (like pulling a fuse) bumped something loose (vafm, a ground) or some animal got "helpful". There is of course a chance something failed, like a pump or relay, as well your battery maybe flat enough the ECU doesn't boot up any more.

Follow the threads here long enough and you'll find lots of " well it was getting fuel the other day, I didn't go back and check when you asked. My xyz failed ".. And similar stuff.