88 4runner 3.0 cranks but wont start
#1
88 4runner 3.0 cranks but wont start
Hey yall. I've done quite a bit of researching on this topic but I have yet to fix my problem. I just bought a 88 4runner that doesnt start. It is a 5speed v6. I am going to swap a 3.4 in once I figure out why it wont start right. The previous owner had the top off and then it rained. It ran for a day and a half then it would not start. Here Is what I know:
1. It is throwing a code 22 which is the ect sensor. Could that make it not start?
2. It has spark and 180psi in cylinders 1,2,3,4,6 and 150 in cylinder 5.
3. Oil and anti freeze look normal but the heads are visibly leaking on the outside.
4. The timing belt was supposedly done a year ago.
5. The previous owner has checked the ecm but I'm not 100% sure he knew what he was doing.
6. I have checked both fuse boxes and there aren't any blown fuses.
7. The battery read 12.37 volts, which is decent.
8. I jumped Fp and B+ but that did not start it. I did hear a hissing sound when the two were jumped.
9.The voltage on Fp when the engine is cranking is 9.5v which I've read is supposed to be 12v.
10. I also tested the AFM and E2-Vc was supposed to be in between 100-300 ohms but it was .6. So then I tried starting it with the AFM unplugged and that didn't work.
So I am going to test the ect tomorrow and possibly do the plugs. I think it is a short in the body harness. Any way to check that? Thanks for the help
1. It is throwing a code 22 which is the ect sensor. Could that make it not start?
2. It has spark and 180psi in cylinders 1,2,3,4,6 and 150 in cylinder 5.
3. Oil and anti freeze look normal but the heads are visibly leaking on the outside.
4. The timing belt was supposedly done a year ago.
5. The previous owner has checked the ecm but I'm not 100% sure he knew what he was doing.
6. I have checked both fuse boxes and there aren't any blown fuses.
7. The battery read 12.37 volts, which is decent.
8. I jumped Fp and B+ but that did not start it. I did hear a hissing sound when the two were jumped.
9.The voltage on Fp when the engine is cranking is 9.5v which I've read is supposed to be 12v.
10. I also tested the AFM and E2-Vc was supposed to be in between 100-300 ohms but it was .6. So then I tried starting it with the AFM unplugged and that didn't work.
So I am going to test the ect tomorrow and possibly do the plugs. I think it is a short in the body harness. Any way to check that? Thanks for the help
#2
Go back to basics when checking.
1. Air
2. Fuel
3. Spark
4. Timing
Check to make sure its getting air, and there are no vacuum leaks or intake hose leaks.
Make sure its getting fuel. Easy way to do this: Crack the cold start injector line open. Fuel sprays out, pump is working. If not, that doesn't mean pump isn't working, but you would want to test the pump directly at that point. Hook leads up to the fuel pump plug under the access panel.
Spark is obvious. You are either getting it at the plugs, or you aren't.
Timing, also self explanatory. Make sure the distributor rotor spins (when the cap is off). If it does, belt is intact. Since you have timing, your belt is hooked up so you can skip that step.
I'll tell you in my experience, its probably NOT the ECU (btw stop saying ECT, that stands for Electronically Controlled Transmission) Its also probably not the plugs. Unless all 6 plugs are jammed shut, the truck will still start. Even with one plug missing, it would run. An engine WILL run on 5 cylinders. What you probably have is an EFI problem. Meaning, the Circuit open relay, EFI relay, a fuse, or some bad wires from a mouse or someone monkeying with them.
1. Air
2. Fuel
3. Spark
4. Timing
Check to make sure its getting air, and there are no vacuum leaks or intake hose leaks.
Make sure its getting fuel. Easy way to do this: Crack the cold start injector line open. Fuel sprays out, pump is working. If not, that doesn't mean pump isn't working, but you would want to test the pump directly at that point. Hook leads up to the fuel pump plug under the access panel.
Spark is obvious. You are either getting it at the plugs, or you aren't.
Timing, also self explanatory. Make sure the distributor rotor spins (when the cap is off). If it does, belt is intact. Since you have timing, your belt is hooked up so you can skip that step.
I'll tell you in my experience, its probably NOT the ECU (btw stop saying ECT, that stands for Electronically Controlled Transmission) Its also probably not the plugs. Unless all 6 plugs are jammed shut, the truck will still start. Even with one plug missing, it would run. An engine WILL run on 5 cylinders. What you probably have is an EFI problem. Meaning, the Circuit open relay, EFI relay, a fuse, or some bad wires from a mouse or someone monkeying with them.
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