well ya gotta remember...i'm sorta on a budget...(grandparents won some cash at the casino....said they'd buy me basically anything i need)...but i don't like borrowing money......

everything would be fine had my motor cost $900 instead of $1100....

i'll probably replace them though, might as well right? everything else is basically new.

 

Camo,

I just picked up an Aisin water pump from RockAuto for $38.79 plus $6 shipping. My local dealer wanted $179 and the parts guy told me it was Aisin as well

 

Hey thanks a lot wrenchinjoe!!!!

 

got my manifold block off done, and a piece of pipe on the passenger side started..it LOOKS like it should do just fine...but i don't have it on the motor...and the motor aint in the truck..so we'll just have to see.

ordering parts probably today or tomorrow, oil pump, water pump, timing belt, tensioners...and i believe that's it...lol around $250 i think......

 

and where are the photos camo....i want to see your block?

 

oh yea LOL..i'll post em tonight..all i've done is throw the valve covers on...broke 2 of the bolts....need to get a torque wrench quick LOL

 

that sucks...well at least the ez out bit is not that expense...do you have a harbor freight store near you because I saw in the website torque wrench are pretty cheap there. if not, autozone is a good place to rent one

 

well just the heads broke off...i was just screwing them into the head..no force at all..they just snapped off???

but yea i got a harbor freight about 30 miles away..and an autozone that's like 10miles away lol

 

do i need a timing cover gasket???????

RockAuto lists one, but i thought the timing cover was just there to keep stuff out of the way of the belt? does it need a gasket?

guess i'll need new O-rings for my injectors LOL i'm gonna check my kit first though, should have came with those o-rings.

oil pump, water pump, timing belt kit (comes with tensioner and idler)

should make me good to go!

 

dang double posts LMAO

 

You don't need to replace the timing cover gaskets if they are still there and not all crumbled to pieces. The gasket is just a dust cover that keeps dirt, dust, water, etc., out of the timing belt area. If the gaskets are missing, I'd replace them, but otherwise not. Take care and keep up the good work!
Bugs

 

 

thanks Bugs, i'll go check em out real quick lol.

and i WILL take some pics..PROMISE! lol

gettin the pigtail wire in a little bit, then i'll be able to throw the lower intake manifold on along with the injectors and fuel rails.

QUESTION: where all should i use FIPG???? other than the Oil Pan, and water pump i believe.

 

 

alas, i have the pics on my phone, but don't feel like uploading them at this hour lol got class at 8am in the morning, gotta be up at 6am, so i'm going to sleep!

pics to come

 

uhhh..where does the knock sensor plug up???? i don't think it was hooked up when i pulled the motor...cuz if it was..then i would have marked the plug on the harness...and i can't find one that's marked lol.

got pics for you guys too!

 

just a mock up, that way i don't forget where stuff goes LOL

theres a sensor in the middle, towards the top of the pic, what is it???? it's the broken one.
theres a vaccum plug/port or something right there below the broken sensor as well, need to know what that is LOL




this is what has been keeping me from working on the motor at nights LOL..i do A LOT of bowfishing, been doing it for 5 years now, and this is the biggest Grass Carp i've ever shot, i've seen bigger, but never had the chance to shoot one this large 66lbs, 49 1/2" long, 33" girth potential Lake Record, almost a State record!!! i weighed it in the today, but i shot it last night, the county game warden said it probably lost about 10lbs in that amount of time (weighed it at 2:30pm today, shot it at 7pm last night) and that would have put it right up there with the state record of 77lbs.

 

Hey bud,

Here is a shot of the knock sensor and pigtail in it's installed location. It's under the lower intake manifold and the pigtail comes out from under the intake between the #4 and #6 injectors. The connector on the sensor is green and it's in the center of the photo.

The sensor with the vacuum hoses is a vacuum switching valve for the EVAP charcoal canister. My PDF FSM calls it a TVV (thermal vacuum valve) for EVAP and shows it on page EG2-142. Shouldn't be too expensive.

The other broken sensor is the Start Injector Time Switch, which unfortunately, is pretty expensive. You can see it on page EG2-247.

Good looking engine! I wish I would have pulled mine and rebuilt it completely but it's running really well so I can't complain. Take care,
Bugs

 

OHHHHH YEAAAAAA i remember unplugging it now!!! i think i just didn't label the plug on the harness

thanks for the info on the sensors bud!!!!!

do i NEED the vacuum one for the charcoal canister??? i'd like to get rid of the charcoal canisters IF I CAN.

 

I can't tell you for sure if you can just do away with the charcoal canister. If you don't have to pass emissions tests it's possible I'd guess, but I don't know if you'd get fuel odors from fuel evaporation. My only experience with that was when the TVV on my son's '94 Camry failed and we were getting strong fuel odors after the engine was shut down for an hour or so.

You could try to remove and plug the hoses going to the canister after you get the truck running and see if you get any odors. The EVAP system doesn't effect performance but does collect fumes evaporating in the gas tank and allows them to be sucked into the engine once it warms up. I have to pass emissions every year so I don't have a choice but to keep the stuff working.

Good luck and keep at it!

Bugs