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3VZ Rebuild

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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 07:51 AM
  #141  
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From: Vian, OK
Oh yea i almost forgot...i have a bigger problem i believe guys...

the Plugs that plug into my Fuel injectors....well most of them are partly broken..so they don't "clip" on...they just sorta slide one...the clip part that holds them on there is broken on almost all 6....what could i do about this?

take some plugs off of another 3VZ and splice them in?


come to think of it...i broke quite a few plugs...and a sensor at the rear that WOULD NOT come off.....so it's gotta be replaced too
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 08:26 AM
  #142  
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You can always use a little dab of RTV to act as a glue to keep the plugs on...
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 08:33 AM
  #143  
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oh yea?

i thought about that, but wasn't sure if it would mess with the electronics?

of course it wouldn't take much...lol

guess i'll just have to check things out when i get it back
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 08:34 AM
  #144  
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Just a dab will do ya!!!
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 08:35 AM
  #145  
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yea i was thinking like about the same amount as a drop of water? lol
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 09:42 AM
  #146  
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Subscribed, I dug into my 3vze last weekend and decided I want to rebuild this summer. Thanks for keeping a running tab on how much the complete rebuild is costing you, your info is helping a lot!

Last edited by jared41; Apr 23, 2010 at 12:02 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 08:19 AM
  #147  
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From: Vian, OK
price is up to $1100 now.....they keep buying parts without telling me........which is really pissing me off....they had to order 3 new rods....i believe..3 or 4..because a few of mine were bent....and they are also going to bolt on the heads with new headgaskets

but it's okay..i sold my '80 4x4 on wednesday, $800


should be getting it back today unless something else goes wrong.

so all in all...i think $1100 is still a reasonable price...just more than what i expected to be paying.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 10:08 AM
  #148  
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yup got it back friday, unloaded it yesterday evening, they even gave me a FULL gasket set!!!!!!!

i want to start in on putting it back together today, but i'm going to have to do a paper for my Comp II class

gotta pick up an oil pump, water pump, timing belt, knock sensor pigtail for sure...should i get a new sensor guys? i want to get a new one...but it's quite expensive.....

lots more i bet..if anybody has any suggestions...post em up.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 10:19 AM
  #149  
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From: willits
Where are the pics?!?! I believe everyone would like to see your new shinnin block...I would get the knock senser if the other one is broken....
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 10:28 AM
  #150  
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well the knock sensor itself is perfectly fine looking...the pigtail however has been cut and hacked and crap.

i'll go take some pics real quick LOL!!!

the basically just threw some primer on the block...kinda ticked me off...they coulda taken a few more minutes and sprayed it down halfway decent.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 06:56 AM
  #151  
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can the knock sensor be tested to ensure it's properly working?

it's like $150 sensor so i don't wanna blow my money on a part that is still good.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 07:06 AM
  #152  
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I'd try using the old one first. When you go to rewire it I'd do this.

use shrink sleeve, solder the joint add a wee bit of contact grease to it and then shrink it. A bad connection will throw the sensor way off, trust me I know.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 07:51 AM
  #153  
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what is this joint that you speak of? lol
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 07:59 AM
  #154  
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Well you can try and smoke the pigtail if you like then solder it up when your done...
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 08:04 AM
  #155  
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gotchya lumpy
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 08:10 AM
  #156  
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I had some issues with my knock sensor a while back, got one on ebay swapped them out and all seemed well. Then that went, did the same ebay deal so spent total $80.00 on 2 sensors and it ended up being a corroded connection from the P/O that was causing it to throw codes. So I blew $80 on a $2.00 fix.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 02:32 PM
  #157  
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oh wow...did the ebay sensors seem okay though?

i'd like to have a new one..even if the new one only lasts maybe 2 or 3 years it'd be good...this 3vz will be outta that engine bay before then

and guys...i'm kinda STUMPED........

i know of everything that needs to be done to get this thing going again....but honestly...idk where the hell to start at LOL.

oil pan and valve covers are first for sure because i don't want them to rust.

oil pump, water pump.

after that comes the exhaust manifolds.

lower intake manifold (after the knock sensor BS though)

after that though, idk where to go...
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #158  
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The ebay sensors seemed alright...I had 3 broke the top off one and I have 1 extra. Not sure which on is in the truck, which on I broke, which one is sitting in my tool box waiting to be used.
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 06:24 PM
  #159  
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okay, parts i still have to buy.

Oil pump (engnbldr)
Timing Belt (engnbldr)
water pump (?????) where's the cheapest place? and i still want a quality product.....


should i replace the timing belt tensioners????
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 06:29 PM
  #160  
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From: willits
why not? might as well
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