yea if all else fails...i'll JBweld that bastard

anybody know how to adjust the warm idle?? before i go diggin through my FSM

 

Adjust warm idle with the screw to the left of the throttle body (as you're looking from the front of the engine bay). It's set into the front of the plenum.

 

i thought that was it, but i wasn't sure...thanks TNRabbit!!!!!!!!!!!

 

so i think i told ya'll it wouldn't idle at all when warm.

i replaced my VAFM and now it's perfect almost lol

i think i still have a vacuum leak or some fine tuning to do with the timing.

 

Hey Camo, Just catching up on your thread and glad to see you have this running. How has things been going since got her going? Looking forward to your update.

 

It's going great Terry!!

i really really want to get an exhaust on it, and get my exhaust leaks fixed, because it's annoyingly loud.

i'm replacing my driverside Tie-Rod (inner and outer) this evening. because i couldn't get the nut screwed onto the stud all the way because the stud's threads were stripped :/

i also noticed that i have low oil pressure after it's been running for a while, as in my oil pressure gauge is reading waaaayyyyyyy to the left of the middle of the gauge, not even at 1/4 of the gauge....idk where it should read????


i noticed something STUPID, that is MY FAULT yesterday evening.....the back of my oil pan, is missing the 2 nuts right in the middle, that's allowing some oil to leak out lol idk how or why i forgot about those 2? but i'm getting the nuts today from the junkyard and putting them on as well.

i hope that would help my oil pressure issue, but i don't expect it to do much.

 

Oil pressure will depend somewhat on what viscosity of the oil. I have a fully rebuilt 3vze with new oil pump & it goes to just over half when cold, then when hot & idling it's below 1/4. Hot revved to +4000 rpm goes to around the middle of the guage. According to Bob Is The Oil Guy, you need 10 psi for every 1000 rpms to sufficiently lubricate an engine. So at 850 rpm, less than 10 psi is necessary when warm.

 

i kinda figured that it was fine...

i'm going to try to fix my oil leak at the oil pan tomorrow hopefully..and i'm doing my first oil change on it.

Castrol GTX 10w30 is what is going in.

after i fix my oil leak of course...lmao don't want to leak out the oil i put in.



anybody know if i can replace the driverside cam seal (on the back of the head) with the head still in the truck/on the motor....it's leaking, not a LOT....but a little......would i be able to maybe get by with putting some black RTV on it or some kind of similar sealant to keep it from leaking?...because i doubt i can remove the old seal and install the new one with the motor/head still in the truck

and i'm not going to remove this motor....or pull this head.....just sayin.

 

guyssssss :/

i had forgotten about my broken exhaust stud (for the driverside downpipe) until yesterday while at the exhaust shop...

so NOW i have to take the driverside manifold off so i can take it to get the stud fixed..($5 from my exhaust guy)

after that, it's going to be around $120 plus $70 for my magnaflow from Summit Racing.

so roughly $200 for my exhaust...lol most i've ever spent on an exhaust system

 

camo thats to dang much for exhaust. lol straight pipes or glasspack should be starting to sound better and better hahaha

 

I really like working on exhuast...NOT. I am putting a header on mine today as I cant keep one of the studs to stay in. I have even tried new bolts and studs from Toyota and it still works its way out. It is at the shop now getting the pipe put on. Its a 22re and it is a common problem it seems. This is the second one I have had done because of that. I feel your pain on the exhaust issues.

 

lol the only reason it's soo much is because of how hard it's going to be..gotta run over the front driveshaft, between the driveshaft and tranny ( i hope)..new pipe on the driverside too..put a Y-pipe in to tie the two pieces together, then put the O2 sensor right in the Y-pipe so it can get as much heat as possible. then weld on my Round Magnaflow 14" muffler with a turndown until i can get more money to do the rest of the exhaust lmao

yep, Round Magnaflow 14"...2.25" inlet and outlet, 4" round case. 2.5" core....should sound pretty good

 

terry i had the EXACT same problem on my '86 22R...i finally put a new stud in it and used A LOT of loc tite.

 

So how's it running???

 

it's running good so far!!!!!

only thing i can notice is i think it has a slight miss upon acceleration..kinda hard to tell...honestly.

it's got a TON more power than my '86 22R 4x4 does..hell i can accelerate up hills in 5th gear with the 4runner, whereas my old '86 i'd have to downshift.

i also think it might have a limited slip rear diff??? how would i be able to tell THAT?

 

Nice! I just got my 3vze running good too. I had to change all six injectors, fuel tank, fuel filter and fuel pump. Glad u got it running good!

 

dang that sucks!
was it a combination of all of them, or is that the stuff you replaced before you found the problem?

 

Combo of everything!!! Fuel tank was rusty inside. Fuel pump bracket war rusty also. Fuel filter full of rust. Most of the injectors clogged! Other than that its all good! Are u planning to swap to 5vze?

 

ah i see, glad to hear it's running good dude!!!!!!!!!!!!

honestly, only time will tell, i REALLY want to go with a Diesel swap...with either a VW 1.9L TDI diesel,or a Mercedes OM617 5cyl diesel...used to have a jetta with a 1.9L TDI and it ended up being a nightmare but had about 260,000 miles on it....

and i've heard the 5Cyl mercedes motors are bulletproof, and have lots less wiring since they are older.


i look at it like this:
Diesel fuel cost more, but a Diesel motor in my 4runner could/would get better than 25mpgs.
Gasoline costs less, but a 5vz will only get (AT BEST) 20mpgs......

so it would cost more per fill up at the pump with the diesel, but in the end costs less overtime.

and who doesn't want to see an old 4runner rollin' coal with the big rigs

 

another reason for me to swap my 3vz for a diesel, is that i have a full Bio-Diesel processor in my shop...so i could be making my own fuel for around $0.55 per gallon...and still be getting over 20mpg's