There are so many emission crap on these motors that I would say yes but not certain. Put a timing light on it. Just to let you know It is something simple just finding it could be a pain.

 

yes...LOTS of emissions crap.
wish i could just block everything off on it


i am about to go throw some light at the crank pulley..wish me luck!

 

EGR might have a vacuum leak, but the engine can idle with some leakage. I think you are off a tooth. Line up the timing marks again, and check that the distributor rotor is pointing at #1, and not 2 or 6.

 

well when i stuck the dizzy in..i kinda had to turn it to the left or right JUST A LITTLE BIT...and when i slid it into the hole in the driver side head, it rotated a bit, and lined up exactly right where it's supposed to be....inline with the plug on the distributor.

 

so my timing was off at the distributor..one tooth lol took me a bit to get it right..but when i did, she idled finee

but, after a little while of idling..it just started sputtering and then died..and now it will idle rough and then die. lol anybody got any ideas?

 

Now you have to slay another Dragon. Vacuum leaks or idle air bleed. Get a spray bottle fill with H2O and soap. Spray around till you find a leak, move to each in turn. it also may just need you to run it around and break it in properly.

 

i have a question....probably a dumb one, but i just noticed this.

when i blocked off my EGR, i was told to use soda cans to make the block off plates (read that on here actually, worked for other people so i figured i'd try) but i don't believe they are adequate.

i don't have access to a CNC machine...or i'd make some out of aluminum..i have access to basic tools found around any home mechanic....anyone got any ideas on something i could use to make some block off plates for?


the EGR port in question is the one on the passenger side of the intake manifold, i think it's leaking, allowing un-metered air to enter the motor through that EGR port.....basically creating a Vacuum leak! which would explain the problem, right?

 

Soda cans are thin i would use some a little thicker may like diamond plate.
It is smooth on one side and pretty. You can use a jig saw with a metal blade to cut it or a sawzall then some rtv and done.Sand the edges smooth if you wish. My 2 cents.Also I'm glad you got it get some pics up of the blocked egr valve. I'll delete mine when i rebuild mine.

 

You can use any kind of material that is stiff enough to hold a seal with RTV. But yes tin cans do work, just have a can of soup or beans and cut the can up with tin snips. You don't even need a drill press, just cut away till you have a lip to hold under a washer. Put a couple of fender washers over it and put enough RTV on it seal a creek. Problem solved.

An old computer case, or appliance, a crushed fender, the list of sources for 16 to 20ga steel sheet metal is almost endless. You only need a couple of square inches.

 

Fender washer?

thanks for the ideas Skypilot!

i'll post up some pics whenever my screen gets fixed on my phone, dang touch screens :/

 

so it still sputters and dies after a few minutes of running..

i think it's running good on the "cold idle" and when it warms up is when it starts to idle lower and lower until it sputters and dies.

i read something on here about that, but i can't seem to find it now...anybody got any ideas?

it's definitely running A LOT better now, i made a block off plate out of 1/16th inch steel..no more leaks

but the warm idle problem bugs me.....

 

I had similar issues when my CSI went bad. If it continues to seep fuel, it will run poorly once the engine warms up.

That is easy to check, just remove it from the intake plenum, put it in a jar, cover the hole in the intake plenum with a block plate (or duct tape) and start the truck. It will run rough when cold due to the leaner fuel mixture with no CSI, but once warm the CSI is not a factor and the engine should run smoothly - if that is the problem.

Also look to see if the injector continues to seep in the jar. This may not be your problem given the scope of the work you have undertaken, but again it is easy to rule this in or out as an issue.

Good luck Camo, you are almost there. More pics please

 

Where's the Cold Start Injector???? lmao

i can't post any pics until my phone gets fixed, sorry guys

it looks great though

 

Right above where your EGR used to bolt into the plenum. It has a fuel line and electrical connection on it (but leave them attached).

 

top of the picture.

electrical connector removed from it

 

and here's a pic of what my son's looks like from his 3vze rebuild

i'm sending his injectors and the cold start injector off to Witch Hunter

 

AH HA!! thanks alot guys! i'm going to check it out in a little bit!!! i'm sure it's gunked up with all kinds of crap just like the EGR was

 

2 more pics for ya....before and after (Witch Hunter service)on my cold start injector for my 22re.

 

bad news.............................................. .....................



























i broke a bolt lmao..

one of the 10mm ones that holds the cold start injector in place unfortunately.

i'm going to try my best to get it out...but idk if it is going to work or not..

and btw, there is no fuel coming out of my CSI...like on a warm start, it should squirt a little and then stop......well nothing comes out....not even on a cold start!?

 

You have made some progress, good job. I just spent 3 days on a broken bolt. I tried to use an easy out and it broke in the bolt. Tried to find a machine shop to take it out was next to impossible as alot of closed down. Take your time and be easy on it. Glad to see you are getting there.