That would be a mean swap! I think diesel is the way to go bro!!!

 

Damn! Wish i could make gasoline at my job!!!

 

lol making gasoline is pretty damn hard.

making Bio-Diesel is a piece of cake

 

Ok so this is my first post here and so far have found alot of very useful info on here, my question is I have a 91 4runner I just got for very cheap with a blown HG, turns out that was all that was wrong. I have it torn down to the block still in the truck and the odometer says 237,000 but the cylinder walls dont even have a hint of ridge at the top. Should I go ahead and rebuild the bottom end or just rebuild the top end? Was hoping to not sink a lot of money in it and just get to put some miles on it before a engine swap down the road, but not sure now.

 

Did you do a compression test before you broke it down?

If the HG was blown for long, you might have bearing issues (first thing coolant in the oil destroys). Might need to pull the oil pan & have a look-see at one of them....

 

Start a thread, SoCo, ..... You'll get plenty of input if you do... probably wont get much on the thread of someone else, ya know? I'll be looking for your thread. Best wishes. (PS> might help in it to put TONS of details, especially which motor, etc.)

 

Ok I'll start a thread soon, took tons of pics as I tore it apart and labeled everything. It is the 3.0 3VZE. Engine just dosen't seem to have that many miles on it but I don't know of any way to be sure other than rebuild. The cylinders are slick as glass and no ridge what so ever, but #1 was pumping the h*ll out of some water.

 

Yeah, TN is right... and the bearings wont be that far in to check out once you get the pan off, ya know? If you have POLISHED holes... not good for compression, ya know? Sounds like it really worked in the water for a while before the HG finally blew, actually, SoCo.... Maybe?

Best wishes, sling a post here as to when you start the thread, K? LOTS of 3.0 guys on this site. I'm not one of them, lol...but I might be of some help, K?

Mark

 

I pumped a ˟˟˟˟˟load of coolant through mine & it did a number on the bearings. So, what turned out to be a HG replacement turned into an entire engine rebuild. It's around here somewhere, but putfile went tits up & lost all 1900 photos I had linked in the thread...>DOH~!

I showed ZERO wear on my cylinder walls at 218k miles. Mic'd them & checked every which way; cams were fantastic, just the bearings were ate up a little bit.

 

Ok thx for the help guys. Guess i'll be spending more than I wanted to right now. I'll start a thread when i get dug in.

 

how would i go about Flushing my cooling system?

i seen some fuggin orange RTV in the top of the radiator of my 3vz.......keep in mind i used NO ORANGE RTV on this job...so it's been stuck in the radiator...

need to flush it out nice and good...any ideas?

 

they're cheap to work on dude? LOL
i've spent about 1200-1400 on my rebuild? complete rebuild..

if you go to the Dealership than it's going to be expensive for a rebuild of ANY motor..not just Toyota.

you want a wiring harness...why? go to a junkyard...boom! less than $100!

 

you sir are an idiot

 

Southern comfort.. these motors usually dont get ridge rings like domestic motors, even with lots of miles, I would probably just go with a topend rebuild if I knew the previous condition of it, if not I might would go a little further, depending on funds, just mt 2 cents

Camo.. I would pull your radiator out and take it to a rad shop and have it power flushed. Those Preston kits help but they cant clean your radiator out. It cost me $25 to have mine flushed and each one had looked good until I had it done it and it makes a difference. These are going on 20 + years and have a lot of build up.

 

hmm...thanks Terry i believe i will do that!!!!!!!


yesterday i was letting my truck idle for a bit...and i've let it idle for longer before..and the temp gauge never moved past the middle.

well yesterday i looked down at the gauge.....and it was ALMOST touching the red.!?!?!?!?!? scared me...so i took off like a bat outta hell driving down the highway...(t was about 40* outside) and it cooled back down to the middle of the gauge within about a minute or two...and it was fine the rest of the night..didn't overheat again.



i also noticed that if i drive down the highway before the truck is fully warm....it won't get warm until i get into town and drive slower....this sound right to you guys?

it's been between 55*-32* when these things are happening.

 

Have you solved the overheating issue? Unfortunately I don't have and really useful info; my only though is that there may still be air in the cooling system or a pressure leak from a bad cap.

 

i believe it's a bad radiator cap...i've gotten all the air outta the system like 3 times..and it's still got that "rushing water" sound when i start it up.


my rear heater doesn't work either...no matter what i do...anybody got any advice on that?

 

I'm not totally familiar with the 3.0,I am about to be.Just got another 1st generation runner that needs head gaskets.I did however do a head gasket job on one several years ago,and found that it was very hard to get all the air out of the system.The rushing water sounds to me like you have air in there somewhere which could give you your overheating problem along with your no rear heat.
How are you purging the air from your system?

 

i put the front up on some small ramps (bout a 1ft tall) so the radiator is the highest point, take the cap off, make sure the fluid is full, start the truck with both heaters on full blast.

and wait till it the air bubbles stop poppin out, ran it like that for 15-20mins...on more than one occasion.

 

Try leaving your rad cap on loose(first click) and drive it around town a bit,that should get all your air out.