I have also squeezed the bottom rad hose at the same time to help with the burping.

 

hmm, i'll try that!!!

i'll likely get a new cheapo cap from Oreilley's, it's cheap so what the heck ya know?

 

How to get the water noises out of a 3vze:
Jack up the front about a foot, foot and a half if you've got the jack for it.
Get yourself a soda bottle, cut the bottom off so you've got a high capacity funnel.
Wrap the threads of the bottle with some paper towel, and it will wedge in the radiator perfectly.
Fill radiator, and half way up funnel with coolant.
Run truck, heaters on full blast, at about 3k.
Squeeze the hoses and let them go quickly, you'll get a number of "glug"s, and it will pull coolant in from the funnel.
Keep the engine speed up (so the cold coolant doesn't shut the t-stat) and squeeze the hoses until all of the glugs go away.
Tah-dah!

 

this is good stuff and all, but how am i supposed to keep the engine speed up while i'm doin everything else? lmao

i'm doin this stuff alone guys

 

The process I wrote up is a one-man job.

 

I have the same motor, but have never had the overheating prob..

 

Same here. If you keep the cooling system bled and let the engine warm up slowly each time you drive, I don't think the HG/temp will ever give you any problems.

 

if I needed help with 3vz timing belt mark marks lining up lol is this where I do it cheers woody

 

where ya do what?

i'm kinda lost.




to give you guys an update on some stuff that has happened.


my fan clutch went out.

i installed a 17" electric fan from Jegs, flows 2100CFM, like 11amp draw i believe. solved that problem.


motor seems to get more powerful everytime i drive it, so far i have a GPS confirmed top speed of 103mph, with my heavy arse 285 Toyo's and lift.

still have an oil leak behind the heads...cam seals i'm almost 99% sure.

and to be honest, i'm losing coolant. i'm not sure if it's air escaping the system or what, and i can't find a leak anywhere, and my exhaust has no sweet smell to it at all.

i have about 8000 miles on it now i believe, maybe more...i think i'm going to do one more oil change with Castrol GTX 10w30, then i'm going to a Full Synthetic. and i'm open to suggestions as to which synthetic i should use.

i still have a sputter whenever i floor it under 3250rpms(via tachometer in dash) it's very annoying.....truck kinda shakes a little and sounds like it's missing.


and also whenever i had an exhaust leak welded up, i noticed a strong gas smell........great. i believe theres a fuel leak underneath the upper intake manifold, likely one of the injectors, as i tighted everything else up pretty well, and i know the injectors have been known to leak.


Eventually this motor will be up for sale!! it's not got the power that i want. if i get another vehicle i'll be pondering a V8 swap, (simple like a carb'd V8 or TBI 350.)


i'm also weighing the pro's and con's of a Propane setup for this, propane is expensive right now at $1.80 a gallon here, but thats a hell of a lot cheaper than $3.60 for gasoline.

if anyone has any links for propane setups on 3vz's i'd love to read them!

 

The MOST common fuel leak on the 3vze is at the fuel pressure damper. It's located under the plenum near the firewall on the passenger side. If you pull the hood, you can just see it. (pulling the hood is GREAT for working on this engine as it gives more light & access & is 4 bolts--quick! I can do it by myself in 5 mins)

Losing coolant is a more serious issue. I'd buy a coolant pressure test kit, pump it up, and listen/look for leaking coolant. Remove the plugs before you do this as it may be in the HG. Turn the engine over afterward with the vafm unplugged (stops fuel pump) & see if water spews out any of the plug holes. DO NOT try to remove the VAFM with the screws; just slide the little metal tabs out of each side & it pops right off.

For the missing, you could have a vacuum leak (unmetered air) somewhere in the intake or possibly (less likely) a distributor issue.

 

Hey guys I have been lurking here for about a week. i bought a 95 4runner. I'm in the middle (well closer to the end) of pulling the motor w/o tranny. I have searched a bunch and havent found anyone with the same exact problem. I am having the biggest cuss filled pita time getting the front bolt out of the starter. The rear was time consuming but easy.

Anyway I lucked out, today I finally bought a close neighbors truck. 95 runner, 3.0, auto, the interior is tits!, motor blew a hg on the 6cyl, dude didnt do it right and it didnt seal. bad gaskets, no head work or even check if the head needed to be decked, and today as I've gotten closer to pulling the 3vz I've noticed so many loose bolts from pulleys to intake bolts. So he did the hg, it dumped water in the oil again, and it sounds like number 6 is knocking pretty bad. It runs perfect, minus the very loud knock.

I'd like to keep the 3 in it. Maybe not this particular 3, but have you guys seen or heard of anyone being able to just toss in new bearings and voila? I have yet to pull the pan and answer that question for myself.

Its a ton of work but I feel like a school girl with my new truck.

I love this website. My girlfriend does not!!

But it was all mine for 500 bucks.

 

you can slide in some new bearings if the knocking is originating from the rotating assembly and not from the wrist pin. If its a wrist pin, you'll probably want a new piston. You can't get a piston out of the bottom of the block with the crank installed.

But, I slid in new bearings on my 255000 mile 22re and it works great now! Has been for a year. But, I checked each piston to make sure that there were no loose wrist pins.

 

alright, I was able to get to the front starter bolt after getting the a/c compressor out of the way, then I could see exactly what to do.

I am struggling with the top 2 bolts that mate the tranny and engine. Any tricks to get at them. especially the right one. Fkn hell that side of the motor is a nightmare. I really dont want to pull the tranny with the motor unless it really is that much easier, just so much more to do with that big ole thing.

Tired and frustrated, I appreciate any help from you 3slow experts.

 

everyon says it's easier to pull the motor with the tranny, but to be honest it wasnt hard just pulling the motor its self.

to be honest, i could pull my motor in about an hour now...lol.

i can have it stripped down and ready to be pulled in like 35mins lol.

next upgrade will be a hotter alternator.
after the fuel leak fix.....lol

 

If the hose that hangs in the overflow reservoir is clogged it will spit coolant out the drain hose rather than dumping into the overflow. Just a thought.

 

yea i've checked that a few times and it's not clogged.


every now and then i can get some effing Orange RTV that pops up in the top of my radiator.....and i didnt use ANY orange rtv anywhere.....


before it gets cold here in Oklahoma i believe i'll get my cooling system professionally flushed and refilled with Toyota Red Coolant. maybe this will solve my problem?



I haven't ever been able to get the rear heater to blow warm air either?.....like...EVER. it blows cold all the time...which is fine because it helps cool my amp, but since it's not blowing warm air, i'm assuming the coolant lines going to it are prolly clogged.

 

Oh, and if anyone has any suggestions for a Synthetic oil...post them up.

i would love to run Royal Purple, but it's quite expensive, and i also have a small oil leak.

i'm wanting to switch to synthetic to extend my oil change intervals and give more protection.

i run my motor, i don't dog it around town or anything. i go to 4500-5000rpms more than a few times a day. mainly because i have always been told to run the hell out of a motor when you're breaking it in. and i know i have more than 8000 miles on it..cant remember the exact mileage. so i'm wanting to switch to synthetic.

if royal puprle really is THAT much better than the other synthetics found at wally world and such. then i'll switch to them.

would like my oil changes to be at 10K miles. wanting to send my oil in to get it analized, but to be honest i'm kinda scared it'll come back with some crap in it that will make me want to STOP driving it lol, like coolant, or some excess metal traces in it.

 

Hey Camo.
Re-reading your build. Started one myself last spring, spent the summer in PHX, and just now getting back to TX for a bit to try to remember what happened in my last exciting episode.

Checked your thread and 92's threads, et al, trying to figure out what everyone did on exh.manf'd studs. Iirc, there is much angst with those things. And btw, what headers did you end up getting?

Oh, as an aside, did you ever get an answer to oil? I have a 'bavarian' import, that uses "only dealer oil" or castrol. Been using castrol full syn now for 70k+. Works for me. Always change my own too. Which raises eyebrows, lol. The luxury of those cars is being able to afford someone else to fix 'em!

Prob'ly oughta start a thread, need to find those pics I took (way back when Noah was calling for rain!).

 

"every now and then i can get some effing Orange RTV that pops up in the top of my radiator.....and i didnt use ANY orange rtv anywhere....."

Are you SURE it's RTV & not one of the newer HG/Radiator leak sealers? If a PO used it, it will screw up your radiator AND heater core & result in overheating.

As to the oil, Amsoil is THE BEST, followed closely by Redline. Not cheap, though.

The rest are miles behind. Royal Purple is a joke.

 

studs were from LC Engineering. bought them because needed new ones anyway and wanted ones intended for headers.

bought Doug Thorley 505-c headers....got them on ebay NEW for about $50 cheaper than I found them on SUMMIT.