I have a set of Downey 1.5" rear lift springs. They are super flexy and worked great off road. I pulled them so i could run lc80 rear coils since I needed a little more lift to match the front after my SAS.

If your interested your welcome to pm me. I planned on selling these. They are essentially the same thing as the ones your looking at.

Either way you won't be disappointed.

I fit 33's nicely and with 35's had a slight rub.

 

I have the heavy duty rear springs and my rear maxes easily to the bump stops no problem.

 

I cut my rear bump stops at the first narrow section, so about 1.5 inches. The cheapo moneroes don't bottom out and I get a lot more room to dampen the big bumps (most noticeable on the streets).. anyway that was a side thought.. lol.

about the 1.5 inch downeys (i sent pm to but this question may help others to).. that spring is called a leveling lift. Well, i'm doing a 1.5 inch suspension lift on the front as well (spacers)... so will I need a 3 inch to bring to level frame? I got some moog springs earlier, stock replacement, and the car is not drooping at all so I have no leveling needs but actual lift to match the front.

 

I really dig the the Black 4runner. Black paint tends to show the all the flaws,and this one is flawless,nice job.

 

Have any of you guys running the LC coil/BJ spacer lift had any alignment issues after installation? I stopped by the stealership today to pick up some clips for my new grille and one of the parts guys said I'll never get it aligned right without extended Upper Control Arms. He said I could find some on ebay so I don't think he was trying to upsell me.

 

Doesn't seem to be a problem. My 1.5" BJ spacer worked fine, but I had positive camber to begin with... Search the forums see if anyone has had issues.

 

No problem aligning mine either

 

Does anyone know how much lift fj100 coils will give a 95 4Runner? I haven't put them on yet, and I thought I could save some time by asking here before I did it.

 

I accidently bought the 100 kind instead of 80 off of ebay when I was shopping for some.

 

3"-4" is typical:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...anhardDropBrkt

 

What kind of visor do you have for your rig? I've been looking all over for one but I haven't had any luck.

 

Oh awesome! I appreciate that.

 

Much appreciated.

 

I have a 91 4Runner SR5 that already had a lift and body lift on the truck. My question is, does any one know how(or if) it is possible to measure how big of a lift is in this truck? It currently sits on 33x12.5 Super Swampers and they look a little on the small side. The guy I got the truck from didn't have it put in either, so he couldn't tell me how big it was either.

I will post a pic of the truck as soon as i can. But in the mean time, any info you guys could pass along would be appreciated. Thanks

 

I've got a 92 4Runner and have been thinking of doing the:
1.5" BJ spacer
1.5" Sway-A-Way Tbar crank
And either a 1.5 or 2" Body Lift

Which coils would yield 3-4" for the rear?

 

The FJ80 Landcruiser coils give about that much lift, as noted below:
- http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Coil...anhardDropBrkt

 

I would advise against it all other than the 1.5" BJ spacer.


T-bar crank means less flex. Height is a tippy waste without it.

Body lifts are a waste unless you are cramming massive tyres. As you are not you don't need it. I have a body lift to fit 35" tires but I don't even need my 3" body lift and I've wanted it gone for ages. It came with the rig. I will be pulling it with my 3rd rebuild upcoming.


Get the HD coils for your rear end. Old Man Emu makes them and they give you enough to clear 35" tires with a little trimming or at most a 1" body lift. They heavy Duty coils also allow you to wheel with weight. Even with stiff suspension if you are really wheeling it will flex it its maximum capability.



I have done just about everything you can to an IFS 4Runner. I have pushed every version of my build to the literal breaking point from the near Arctic in Canada to SoCal and Moab.

My next build version of the same rig is to cut apart the frame to C-Notch it and do an SAS with an FJ62 front axle and custom rear. I also plan on having custom sway bars made and I will only disconnect them under extreme conditions. I have leant that stability on the trail is more important than another inch of flex.


Go and check my thread and perhaps avoid some expensive lessons.

 

I would bet a 3" body lift. My 33's looked small when I bough Red.

On 35's its much better looking but I'm still pulling it out first chance I get.

 

You can get an alignment fine.

It's when you go long travel IFS that alignment gets ˟˟˟y. I have destroyed tires with my long travel set up.

 

Long Travel IFS built around factory pivots is not designed to compete with a "Rock Bouncer" style rig. KOH and other Ultra 4 rides using IFS are so far removed from a bolt on IFS LT systems its not a fair comparison. You wouldn't expect a bone stock 1985 live axle truck to survive, so why would you expect a 1986 IFS truck with longer control arms?

I tip my hat to Andrew (Red Wagon) for pushing the limits, but that is not the typical experience people running IFS LT are having according to my feedback.

Perhaps in Andrews case the 35" M/T tire on a 10" wide rim combined with 3-1/2" longer control arms with a 3" body lift isn't the right application for what he is wanting to do with his ride! Forcing the rig through John Bull or Moab like its a rock bouncer is going to cause problems with alignment and tire wear. Combine that with thousands of street miles between trails and you have an impressive journey. However, I would expect some alignment and wear issues.

Typically my customers are reporting positive feedback. I have had one or two customers, out of 100+ installations, with alignment complications. This was easily corrected with a replacement UCA Extension Brackets configured to reduce positive camber.

Andrew has some good points and I respect and appreciate his feedback. Take his advice, do some research to find out how you go about building your Yota.