Hi everyone!
I recently finished replacing the HG on my 22re. I went ahead and put in a new stage 2 cylinder head from 22reperformance. In addition, I threw in a new timing chain kit, reman injectors, oil pump and water pump. Finally, to keep things in check I installed an aftermarket oil pressure and water temperature gauge.

When cold, the engine starts and runs great. Temp goes up to 200 and then maintains at 190. Oil pressure reads good too.

However, once it warms up. If I turn it off, it won't start again. It will crank and crank but nothing. Tried throwing some carb starter in the intake manifold. Nothing. Checked spark by pulling a wire and seeing it when cranking and there is a spark.

Looking for your help on where to start looking. I don't want to pull parts left and right without knowing what is going on. Any input/tips on where to look are appreciated. Thanks!

FYI. I did set the timing correctly. I had to recalibrate the TPS sensor and was able to set timing correctly afterwards.

 

Please always indicate Truck-Model-Year-Engine-Transmission-Trim.
Start with simple things first; by simply eliminating doubt on temp sensing. All temp sensors, their connectors AND THEIR MOUNTING THREADS should be cleaned to bare, shiny metal at least once every 30 years.

 

Thanks for the reply!
Here are some details.
1985 4runner short block is from a 94 but everything else is 85.

Based on your comment, I just checked the ECU temp sensor. It's out of range. Its reading 1.5kohm as opposed to the 20~40ohm range. It hasn't been started since yesterday but it's also 100 degrees outside. Going to wait until night time to get a second reading. I'll post the results.

 

Scratch that. I measured the wrong sensor. It's 60ohms at 100 degrees. I'll remeasure at night but seems ok. The connector was very greasy/dirty. I cleaned it as well.

 

Show us exactly where you measure. Why? Because it makes a difference.

These are one wire sensors, this means the path to ground is through the sensor body to the intake.

It does not take much change in the ground path resistance to have a wrong temperature reading, it's a voltage divider circuit inside the ecu. Accurate temperature measurements are very important for the computer to know what air fuel ratio to use.

While you have the sensors out cleaning the threads also gives you the chance to clean any build up (scale) off the part of the sensor that does the measurement. This scale will alter the temperature as read by the sensor, think of it like trying to read your body temp with an IR thermometer through a coat.

 

EXAMPLE OF CLEAN MOUNTING THREAD


COOLANT THERMOSWITCH ON TOP OF THERMOSTAT HOUSING CLEANED.


WHAT YOU DO NOT WAHT MOUNTING PORT THREAD TO LOOK LIKE.

 

I'll take pics in a bit. My phones camera is done so need to get a camera or my wife's phone.

Thanks for the pics! From the above. The CSI Timer is at 60ohms and the ECU temp at 1.5KOhms. I did not measure the one wire on the housing. Note that I measured in place. IE didn't remove sensors.

 

Never mind.

 

So both sensors are a bit over in their readings. I can see this being attributed to the threads. I won't be able to work on it this coming week but next weekend I'll remove and clean threads and remeasure.

 

Since I had cleaned the connectors. I wanted to try and recreate. Sadly, I did recreate. After cranking it a while I noticed a rich smell. I read in another thread here that a bad CSI caused similar behavior. In unplugged it and after some cranks it barely started. After giving it some gas it stabilized. The RPMs were low, around 650rpm. Seems like running rich offset the idle speed. I set it the idle rpm to 750 and verified timing. Started right back up. Going to send the CSI for servicing.

 

Before you do that, test it!

IF your problem is that the CSI was putting in too much fuel (which is what I think you concluded), it could either be leaking (all the time), or the Cold Start Injector Time Switch was commanding CSI Open when it shouldn't have. Servicing the CSI won't affect the latter.

To check for the first is trivial. With the CSI out of the intake manifold, but connected to the fuel line, start the fuel pump with FP=>B+ on the diagnostic connector (key on-engine off). Is fuel coming out of he CSI? If not, it's not leaking, and servicing it won't help. Is fuel spraying? Disconnect the electrical connector to the CSI. Does it stop spraying? The CSI is fine, but your Time Switch is stuck closed.

If it passes the above tests, you still could have a Time Switch that opens too warm or (less likely) for too long. Here are the temperature specs: http://web.archive.org/web/201411140...ne/97colds.pdf Since you don't have an accurate way to measure coolant temperature, you might have to pull the switch and use an ice water bath.

 

Thanks for the input. You have a good point. Now that you mention it, I did notice a weird behavior.
a) Truck got to 180~190 degrees first time. Shutdown and restarted right up.
b) I let it keep going to get the thermostat to open. Once it opened, radiator heats up and engine cools down. I shut it down and was unable to restart.

Thus, something happens when the thermostat opens. Its not just getting to operating temp, its getting to operating temp and running enough for the thermostat to open. The Thermo switch does come to mind since it would be the only thing in the way of the water flow.
I'll run the tests mentioned! Thanks for the input.

 

When my 92 pickup with 22RE was acting like yours, a new thermal time switch fixed the problem. Suggest you take scope103 advice, and test the cold start injector and thermal time switch.

If you end up needing a thermal time switch, I bought a Beck Arnley thermal time switch from Rock Auto, and when I opened the box it had an original Toyota factory part. Same part that you would get from a Toyota parts counter. Bought mine just over two years ago, so can't say if you will get a factory Toyota part or not.

 

Awesome. For 10 bucks, I'll go ahead and order one. I'd prefer to have it even as a spare than wait another week since I cant test/debug until the weekend.

 

The Beck/Arnley thermal time switch I bought from RockAuto is $111.99 right now. Not sure where you got the $10 price from. Thermal time switches are very expensive. Price check the factory Toyota part, and you will see what I mean.

 

This is where terminology trips us all up. Toyota calls it the "COLD START INJECTOR TIME SWITCH". 89462-20040 It looks like RockAuto calls it a "Fuel Injection Thermal / Time Switch," which isn't particularly descriptive. (And shows up at $180, which is more than an OEM part. https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/_...946220040.html)

Remember there's also a "Thermal Vacuum Valve" and plenty of other switches. Using the commonly known name could be helpful

 

Had a similar issue with my 3.0 a few years back. It ended up being the fuel pump. It would start and run fine. If I shut it off, I had under 5 min to restart it, or would have to wait till it cooled 100% to re start.

 

I was looking at the wrong part number. Followed your advice and ordered bthr beck/arbkey from rock auto. I also got the OEM part which was great.

Anyway, I got around to testing. I pulled the time switch and it was dust. I mean, literally broken in pieces. I had previously installed an aftermarket temp gauge in the BSV valve switch hole and the aftermarket temp sensor was going to deep and hit the time switch. After removing both, I used some washers to avoid contact between the sensors and replaced it. All working good now.

For anyone running into a similar problem. A bad time switch and/or CSI can be your cause.

Thanks everyone for the help!

 

Glad you got it fixed!

That's a sweet deal on the factory Toyota part for sure.

 

I need to test my time switch and CSI as described here. Before summer I was having a hard start issue, I replaced the banjo bolt on the CSI with a regular bolt, blocking the fuel flow. Truck fires up no problem now, but I know that was just a bandaid, I need to fix it properly, especially as the colder months come.

Great thread, thanks for all the info guys, and glad you got it fixed Sheepish!