He installed a new barb into one of the existing holes:

2) Sub/Idle Advance - From the vacuum port on the distributor closest to the head to the vacuum port on the intake manifold. For the manifold port I installed a 1/4" NPT Male to 3/16" barb fitting on one of the existing holes on the intake manfold (temporarily plugged earlier).

 

So can I use the port I have circled in the picture and put the barb in it and attach my vacuum to it?

 

I don't have a port where you show yours. I have tried to find a fitting to use where in the manifold where Dave shows it but it's BSTP thread and I can't find it anywhere. Anyone else have any luck finding that fitting?

 

Here's a little more info on what those vacuum ports do from pg 9:

That manifold (in the above pic) is from a 20r, but a barb there should serve the same purpose.

As for size, majority of the bolt sizes around the head and intake manifold are M8x1.25. But you'd have to pull whatever was in that port and take it to the hardware store with you. And I'd say the smaller hardware stores would probably have a better selection of metric stuff... Unlike lowes.

If you have too hard of a time finding the right one you could always drill out the existing hole and tap it with a more common thread count.

 

Thanks.. I am going to run my other vacuum to that port and run it. Is there really any big advantage of having the other vacuum line because right now I only have the one going to my carb and the other is plugged..

 

You would need both to keep the correct timing.

 

I'm wondering now... Since I've desmogged it seems to be running rich with my Aisin no matter what I do. Even if I turn my mixture screw all the way in. Should I look into a fuel pressure regulator to take my psi back a pound or two and not drown my carb? Any thoughts?

 

Anyone have any pics of the driverside mount?

 

I can have a pic posted in about an hour when I take a break at work. That's if I can get out to my truck, if not it will be in the morning..

 

Here you go. Kind of tough to see, but in the picture below it is the pipe that wraps around the back side of the engine mount. The bung that the heater core runs too is right above the "N" in my reminder to tighten my engine mount.

 

Hi there, I hope this isn't a repeat question but I first read pumpkins tutorial on desmogging 22r. He mentioned removing the smog pump. But in your tutorial I don't recall you writing about this. My question is: is the smog pump a requirement to remove? I have A/C in my rig and I would rather leave the belts alone for now if possible? Thank you

 

I would say that if you have everything unhooked from it there shouldn't be a problem just leaving the pump bolted up and not messing with the belts. You could also remove the bearing from the smog pump and it will be free turning. Just my opinion..

 

Thank you, that's kind of what I had in mind. And I believe I read about someone on here doing the same thing. Anyone else agree or have tried this method?

 

I didn't have to deal with the smog pump, but I have heard where people have gutted it and basically used it as an idler pulley. I don't really see anything wrong with doing that.

 

Got a 1984 4Runner cali emissions.

I read your tread two or three times just one question. Will I need the 11 or 8 bolt water block plate on post # 10? I spent so much money on smog leag header, rebuilding engine and it was my first ever job by my self lol... So could I block off most if not all smog components? And just to clarify since the emissions stuff only talks with itself I shouldn't have to get a federal emissions ecu once I'm done right?

Ps anyone know how weber doesn't sell a carb legal weber 32/36 yet LCE engineering sells one?

 

Just count the bolts on the bottom of the intake or post a picture and I can tell you which one you need. And yes, you can yank the emissions computer. I completely removed mine along with the wiring out of the harness

 

Gotcha. I was curious if I could not use the water block plate on bottom of manifold. I don't have a garage at the place im at nkw so trying to do as much as I can without having to leave it all torn apart inside itself in driveway lol... I'll go look at the manifold just in case tho.

 

You can do without, but it really isn't difficult to do.

 

Gotcha. I didnt see this covered in the thread. my 1984 has a sort of egt probe in the cat. I was able to find one from davesoffroad performance. but is it no longer required when i complete the dsmog? i spent tons of time and money trying to get this thing smog-able but tired of fighting and registered in Idaho by my dad so no smog or even inspections lol.

so to recap:
is the water block kit that either 8,9, or 11 bolts necessary to complete desmog?
do i need to keep the 02 sensor and or heat sensor on the cat?
(the o2 sensor was originally in oem manifold, but it was moved to base of header when installed. and does the heat sensor for the cat need to remain? ive got no problem keeping them just curious etc.

 

About to order everything up and even with holiday discounts about $703 with shipping lol. Anyone interested in my smog stuff? Everything but carb and possibly smog pump. Even all new Silicone Vaccum lines on stuff haha. Pics soon of goodies and work being done

Ps I'll put stuff on my build thread so I don't gumb up this one lol.