22R Desmog Tutorial
#161
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From: Salisbury, MD
Its kinda sorta the same stuff, but in the end you'll have the same product. Just start ripping everything out, it really isn't rocket science. Just remember, all you need is the distributor vacuum advance, brake booster hose, PCV hose and fuel lines (from the tank to the fuel pump, from the fuel pump to the tank, from the fuel pump to the carb and you'll have fuel pressure regulator in the mix there). Everything else is emissions. Your engine should look just mine regardless of California specs.
#164
You now only need TWO, 2, DOS, DUEX vacuum lines!
1) Main/Port Advance - From the vacuum port on the distributor closest to the radiator to the vacuum port on the Weber.
2) Sub/Idle Advance - From the vacuum port on the distributor closest to the head to the vacuum port on the intake manifold. For the manifold port I installed a 1/4" NPT Male to 3/16" barb fitting on one of the existing holes on the intake manfold (temporarily plugged earlier).
You will only need about 6ft of 5/32" vacuum hose. See below:

1) Main/Port Advance - From the vacuum port on the distributor closest to the radiator to the vacuum port on the Weber.
2) Sub/Idle Advance - From the vacuum port on the distributor closest to the head to the vacuum port on the intake manifold. For the manifold port I installed a 1/4" NPT Male to 3/16" barb fitting on one of the existing holes on the intake manfold (temporarily plugged earlier).
You will only need about 6ft of 5/32" vacuum hose. See below:

I have done exactly this and they are the only two vacumn lines that I now have after pulling my engine, replacing timing chain, installing a new cam shaft and de smogging it.
I found this great thread after having done all of this work. The only things that I didn't do are install the water block of plate below the intake manifold and I didn't block off either water port on the back of the timing chain cover. It didn't occur to me to do these things. I figured that they were necesary components of the engine cooling system and the cab heater.
For some time I had just one vacumn line going to the distributor and the other capped off. I saw this thread and added the second line. Not really sure why I did it though. You seemed to know very well what you're doing so I followed suit. This second vacuum line heads straight into the intake manifold and you can strongly feel air rushing into it when you put your finger over it. What is the reason of putting this on the distributor with the other vacumn line from the carb? Why these two lines as opposed to just one?
Last edited by irv; Jan 16, 2014 at 06:31 PM.
#165
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Glad that I could help! Some of the block off plates aren't absolutely necessary, but They do clean it up a bit. As for your advance question, one is your idle advance and one is your main advance. The idle advance just advances the timing under normal manifold vacuum at idle and the main advance is what advances the timing with increased carb vacuum through the RPM range.
#166
I cant seem to find any of these fittings. I live in the eastern sierras and have very limited shops to check. Anyone have any website that you can find these. Closest lowes or homedepot is about 3hrs.
1 - 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” Barb 90* elbow fitting (brake booster) – about $5.00 1 – 1/4” male NPT to 3/16” Barb (Manifold vacuum advance) – about $3.00 1 – 3/8” male NPT to 1/4” female reducer fitting (Fuel pressure gauge) - about $3.00
1 - 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” Barb 90* elbow fitting (brake booster) – about $5.00 1 – 1/4” male NPT to 3/16” Barb (Manifold vacuum advance) – about $3.00 1 – 3/8” male NPT to 1/4” female reducer fitting (Fuel pressure gauge) - about $3.00
#168
Kawazx or anyone who has done this, I don't have the plates to block off behind the timing cover or in the middle of my head behind the intake. When I called LCE they said they were to block off water and didn't need for a full desmog. I will be running a heater. Do I need to block these off or should I keep them. Truck is a DD now will become more trail/toy on future if this helps at all. Quick response appreciated.
Cheers
Cheers
#169
Kawazx or anyone who has done this, I don't have the plates to block off behind the timing cover or in the middle of my head behind the intake. When I called LCE they said they were to block off water and didn't need for a full desmog. I will be running a heater. Do I need to block these off or should I keep them. Truck is a DD now will become more trail/toy on future if this helps at all. Quick response appreciated. Cheers
#171
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You can run it off of any port on the intake manifold that you can thread a 3/8" nipple (i think that's the size) in and pull vacuum. Although when I would just leave it where it is. What wrong with that location?
#172
Well desmog has gone fairly smooth except for snapped TWO, 2, DOS, DUEX bolts on the egr crossover plate on the back of the head. Agghh what a nightmare. Was able to remove one with some flat nose vise grips and some PB buster. Other one no luck. Trying to get the truck running so we can leave. Already a day behind.
I ended up just putting the egr block off plate on with 4 out of the 5 bolts and a good 1min gasket and hoping it holds for the foreseeable near future. Guess I'll be changing my head gasket soon. Gonna fire the beast up tomorrow and check if the gasket will hold. Wish me luck
Kawazx636 I have what seems like three hard lines coming out of the gas tank. One is the fuel to the engine not sure what the other two are. They are located on the passenger fender. I know one went to a charcoal canister.
My question is whih one do I use as a return and do I just block off the other. Do I need to do anything to prevent pressure from building in the gas tank.
I ended up just putting the egr block off plate on with 4 out of the 5 bolts and a good 1min gasket and hoping it holds for the foreseeable near future. Guess I'll be changing my head gasket soon. Gonna fire the beast up tomorrow and check if the gasket will hold. Wish me luck
Kawazx636 I have what seems like three hard lines coming out of the gas tank. One is the fuel to the engine not sure what the other two are. They are located on the passenger fender. I know one went to a charcoal canister.
My question is whih one do I use as a return and do I just block off the other. Do I need to do anything to prevent pressure from building in the gas tank.
#173
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One line from the tank feeds the fuel pump (make sure you have the right one that goes to the bottom of the tank - you'll know if you don't have it right because it won't get fuel). Another line from the tank is the return from the fuel pump and the third can get capped - It doesn't matter which is capped and which is the return. The return line helps prevent a little bit of the negative pressure in the tank, but it is best to make sure you have a vented gas cap. Both charcoal canisters can go
#174
Cool that's what I have now.
I also got the lce spiral adapter but can't seem to figure out how to mount the throttle cable back kn now. Well the half circle piece is the problem. I'll call lce in the morning Hopfully they have answer. But thanks for all your help. I'll report back with some pics when it's running. It's looking really good so far tho.
I also got the lce spiral adapter but can't seem to figure out how to mount the throttle cable back kn now. Well the half circle piece is the problem. I'll call lce in the morning Hopfully they have answer. But thanks for all your help. I'll report back with some pics when it's running. It's looking really good so far tho.
#176
Kind of a backwards question for this thread but how much would any if you guys want for all that smog stuff? I just bought an 82 pickup and it's been des miffed but it's my dd as well as offroad toy and I live in a pretty smog strict area (tucson AZ) so I actually need that pointless smog crap.
#178
Ill definitely post a want ad in the classifieds soon. How much of that price would you say was just the carb? Just trying to get a rough figure if what to offer someone for everything but my carb is freshly rebuilt.
#179
So after completing my desmog I have a healthly amount of white smoke coming from my exhaust. More at start up but also smoked when you rev it up. And seems to be burning a good amount of oil. Is this related or something completely different.
#180
I get a ton of white smoke when it's cold, but I am sure that's mostly just condensation in the exhaust system. Burning oil though is usually a sign of worn rings. I desmogged my truck this last summer and I don't burn a drop of oil.






