Best of my knowledge the lce kit doesn't come with the water block plates. Well mine didn't at least. Seems like you can do it both ways. I didn't block mine. And kawa did.

 

You can do either, the plate on the bottom of the intake basically eliminates the Cold Mixture Heater (CMH) which helps on cold starts. Mine never worked to begin with and I never had starting problems

 

Can anybody tell me the bolt head size of the bolts on the back if the head? I'm thinking that I ratcheting wrench with a "pivot" end would work well.

 

12 I'm pretty sure. Get a small mirror. Made my life easier to see all of them. And lots of pb buster and patiences. If you snap the bolt the head will most likely have to come off.

 

I've got most everything pulled off and I have a couple if questions. In regards to the piece/plate on the back I the head, what is actually behind that plate? Mine is just the raised plate bolted on there with nothing attached. My question is what is the need of pulling that off and putting the block off? What if I leave it as it is?
As for the heater and the rear of the timing cover. The drivers side looks to already be blocked. I see the other line that comes off and is to be blocked. So the water pump will push fluid through the intake and I can use the new bottom plate with barbed fitting? Is this adequate?
Finally, in regards to the charcoal canisters. How many of you got rid of them? I will begin the reassembly tomorrow when the LCE kit arrives.
Thanks

 

The egr on the back of the head has channels for the exhaust gasses to be recirculates through the engine. You need to take it off and out the block plate on. Not sure for the heater. I called lce and figured out my setup with one of the techs(John). I removed both charcoal canisters. I have a couple feet of fuel line(curled into 3 loops and then a fuel filter on the end to vent my tank) on the line that would be the overflow/ vent line from the tank.

 

As far as the charcoal canisters. What serves as the vent line after they are removed? Taco, I understand what you are describing. Did you run that hose to the fender under the hood or where? Kawa what did you use ?

 

I basically removed the lie that use to go to the charcoal canister and replaced it with the three loops. So yes it is on the pass fender. Got the idea from LCE

 

The plate on the back of the head (EGR Crossover) isn't necessary, but in blocking it off you will reduce engine temperature and increase cooling efficiency since you won't have unnecessary exhaust gases running around the back of the head.

Charcoal canisters can go. I removed my well before I started my build and never had any issues. Just run your return line straight back to the tank - that will help with the negative pressure in the tank. You'll want to snag a vented gas cap to help relieve the negative pressure as well. You'll also have an extra line coming off the tank that you'll want to plug so you don't get debris in your tank.

I plumbed my heater to the bottom of the intake from LCE. There are several ways that you can do the heater, but I found this way to be the cleanest looking

 

Ok. So to clarify, which one did you run the return to? The one that goes down to the one that is with the sending unit or the one that is by itself on the top of the tank? Make sense ?? This will also answer which one I plug also.
Thanks

 

The only one that matters is the fuel supply to the pump - that's the only one that goes to the bottom of the tank. You'll know right away if you got that one wrong LOL. The return can get hooked up to either of the other two and plug the one you have left over.

 

whats going on so im pretty new to yotatech but i was changing my head gasket did my timing chain all that good stuff and came across your post and was like ahh sounds like a good idea while i was putting my motor back together. so i went on and blocked off everything went along to easy then my regulator came in and that bracket how exactly did u mount it to your manifold did u have to drill bigger holes to mount it? and did you use different bolts? because doesnt look like theres much clearance for much. im just wondering because i was gonna mount it to the fender but looks alott better and cleaner how u setup. and again.. good post lce should sponsor you haha

 

I get a few kickbacks from LCE... For the fuel pressure regulator, I just mounted it to an existing hole on the manifold with whatever bolt threaded in there. I did have to grind down the head of the bolt slightly so that the regulator would fit in the bracket.

 

I'm in the process of grabbing all the parts and noticed that the gauge had a 1/8" male connection rather than the 1/4"; otherwise the parts list looks good. Thanks for the information, if I notice any other discrepancies I'll let you know. =D

 

I can't tell you everything, that would make it too easy on you guys!

 

I was looking for where the hard line exists on the driver side; currently uncapped the line runs from the firewall to a hard line into the timing cover. If I was to cap that line off are you saying I would basically be routing it directly back to the radiator?

Here are some photos I've found, none of which illustrate an fully blocked off motor with coolant hose.

If clarification of the question is needed I'll draw and take some more pictures later.















http://imgur.com/a/5oBHZ

 

For one, the engine with the red block in those pictures in that link you posted is a 22RE - the setup is a little different there.

I've seen people route the return hose to the hard pipe on the back side of the driver side timing cover that I have blocked and circled in red here:


I don't know it that way works properly or not, but it seems like it would.


The way the return is ran from the factory there is a rubber hose that comes from the heater core to a metal pipe/bracket bolted on the driver side fender wall. There is a "hose holder" coming off the brake booster to hold the hose away from the exhaust:

This is my engine before I started my restoration (Follow the bracket to the left of the brake reservoir to the hose and then down to the rusty pipe bracket on the fender wall):


This is another image I found online that is a little more clear and you can see the heat hose go all the way to the hard pipe down by the engine mount:


From the pipe/bracket on the fender wall, a rubber hose goes to the bung on the hard pipe (which has a coolant hose coming from the radiator on the lower end and a coolant hose going to the water pump on the upper end) down by the driver side engine mount to tie back into the coolant system.

Here are a couple shots of mine - You can see the bung that I am talking about right above the "E" on the piece of tape that I wrote "TIGHTEN" on to remind me to tighten the engine mounts down:






Did I clear it up for you or just make it more muddy??

 

I also fixed your picture links in your last post

 

For now I'll leave the hard line that you blocked off; it seems my 87 22R doesn't have the additional bung and is more similar to the 22RE for some reason. I figured that I had the plate so I might as well use it lol.

The pipe interconnecting between the heater side on the firewall, did you flip it to route back toward the manifold?

 

I am nearly done, I'm just mounting the carb and verifying fuel lines.

I plan on running without the charcoal canister, can I just block the vent line and replace the gas cap with a vented one?

Do these fuel lines look correct?