Good idea about using JB Weld and the can for a block. I will look through this thread again and hopefully I'll see what others did with the back of the smog pump where the two hoses were.

I got the Holley 12-804 fuel pressure regulator and was about to order the recommended Mr Gasket fuel pressure gauge #1563 for $33 but then I noticed they make a #1561 for about half the price. I called Summit Racing and the guy there said the only difference between the two is that the $33 #1563 is liquid filled and the cheaper #1561 isn't. I told him what I was using it for and he said the cheaper #1561 would be more accurate for using under the hood. Any comments about that?

I don't have a torque wrench so is there any way of describing how tight to make the bolts for the exhaust manifold?

 

I went through 2 Mr. Gasket gauges in a couple months, so I'm not a fan. Spend $35 and buy an industrial grade gauge off amazon. Cheaper than buying a new Mr. gasket every couple months.

as for no torque wrench, if you position the wrench so your "lifting" as you snug it down, and go by what it feels like to lift a 30 pound dumbell then you'll be pretty close. Just checked my shop Manuel and it states 29 to 36 foot pounds for the exhaust manifold fasteners.

 

I think I have all the smog junk off but there's still a hose that runs from the front of the engine (SEE IMAGES BELOW) and connects to something under the intake manifold just a little bit behind and below where the carburetor is. Does anyone know what that hose is for and what I should do with it?

Thank you.

 

that's a coolent line, leave it. Pretty sure it is necessary for your cab heater. Not emissions related I can tell you that much.

 

I'm getting close to finally installing the Weber 32/26, but there are 2 lines that run from the fuel pump to the fuel filter. You can see in the image below circled that they connect on both ends to 2 metal tubes that run under the intake manifold. Can I remove those two metal tubes?

ANSWER: I asked LCE and they said I could remove all of that stuff.


Thanks

 

I need to fill the holes in the intake manifold and the one in the weber 32/36 carb. I see that some are hex head and others are big allen heads. What do you call those things so I'll know what to ask for and where did you buy them?

 

You could take your sensors in to a Fastenall or if you have a Wilco in your area they have a large hardware center, you have to pick your own hardware there though, no expert to help. But they have tread gauges you can use to make sure you get it right. Measure your sensor thread pitch and diameter with there and get the relative hardware. One problem you will run into is one of the sensors by the thermostat requires a shouldered edge to properly seal, for this reason I would just buy the plug kit from LCE. And there shouldnt be any hole in the carb that needs plugged. Should only have a fuel nipple and vacuum to distributor nipple, what hole are you talking about?

 

I had never heard of Fastenal but I see there are a couple fairly close to me. Thanks. The hole in the weber 32/36 carb is at the top behind the fuel line. As I look through this thread I can see several images of where it's been plugged. (SEE IMAGE BELOW) My weber had a brass male hose fitting in it that no one is using.

 

thats not a though hole, maybe on older webers it was. For a float bowl vent to charcoal can. Look down the hole on your carb, its blocked off internally. If your weber has a brass fitting there? Did you buy a used one? Then somebody did the no flood mod for 4x4. They sealed the factory fuel vent and drilled holes where that fitting goes, run a hose from that to a charcoal can, problem solved. Or you can plug it off if desired, tap threads if not already and plug with bolt.

 

It's a new carb. The hole already has threads because it had a brass threaded hose fitting just like the one that's on the front passenger side of the carburetor. I shoved something pointy in the hole and it stopped at 2" in although I can't be sure it doesn't T off to the sides. If the hole doesn't go all the way through then why are people on this thread plugging it?

 

Ok so I searched the interweb and it seems weber started making a california smog legal carb.

Yours looks like this I take it? I also searched a little and everywhere i looked said that barb does in fact hook up to your charcoal can with a 3/8 hose.

Heres the last one I did. Not the best pic, but like all webers ive done there is simply nothing there but a hole that goes nowhere, not a threaded hole either so i cant tell you why other people have done that. Just plug it to your can, shouldnt be an issue.

 

Yup, that's exactly how mine was configured with the barbed fitting on the opposite side and the hose fitting at the top.

I yanked the charcoal canister so I guess I'll just plug that hole at the top, eh?

Why do you have two gauges?

 

Yup, that's exactly how mine was configured with the barbed fitting on the opposite side of everyone else's and the hose fitting at the top.

I yanked the charcoal canister so I guess I'll just plug that hole at the top, eh?

Why do you have two gauges?

 

thought it would be cool to have one gauge showing pressure to the regulator and one out, that's the one you need, on the reg. Thought it would help me monitor the fuel pump so I would know if it was crapping out on me. I had a little trouble with the T fitting on that one not leaking and just didn't like it just hanging there so I ended up ditching it.

 

I have a 1983 SR5 4x4 manual shortbed in the process of desmogging. It's a California version with A/C. Here's some pics I took while removing the EACV, turning the SMOG PUMP into just an IDLER PULLEY, plugging a few holes and fabricating a FUEL PUMP BLOCK OFF PLATE (adding Carter 4070 electric pump). I hope these pics help if you see something in your engine bay that you can't find in the FSM.

And yes, the engine is filthy. The goal is to get her running and drive to the acid bath shop for a FULL CLEANING! I'm in the process wiring an oil pressure switch to a relay to the pump... "on a good day" I'll get some pics and see what the peanut gallery thinks.

CHEERS!

 

I lined the template up on one straight edge so I only had to make 3 cuts... aluminum is a pain.

Anyone wired a 1/8-28 ISO 3 wire oil pressure switch? Know a PS### that works with 22r? Something that works with PS123

 

bonus points for getting an easy out to work! Lol

 

I'm still plugging along here when I can make the time. I pulled off all the smog garbage, made and installed a few block plates and installed the Weber 32/36. I have a couple more questions, please.

1) 3 SENSORS NEXT TO THERMOSTAT: This is a California 1982 22R with three sensors next to the thermostat. I want to keep my heater so is it the middle sensor that I should re-install? (SEE 1st IMAGE BELOW) If so, do you know which sensor in the image below is the one I should use?

2) ACCELERATOR PEDDLE DOESN'T ENGAGE THROTTLE: (IMAGES BELOW) I hooked up the throttle cable to the carb and when I depress the accelerator peddle it doesn't move the throttle at all. In fact, the peddle stays depressed when I push on it with my hand or foot and doesn't spring back like it should. All I did before was to remove the cable and spring from the asain carburetor before so I don't understand why it's not working now. I looked in the Haynes manual and online and couldn't find anything. Got any ideas why the pedal isn't engaging the throttle? EDIT: I took a video of how this was working on my truck and went to a junkyard to see the difference between an assembly that was working properly and mine and realized that a couple of the parts had kind of twisted themselves. Anyway, after doing that I was able to fix the issue in about 2 minutes!

Thanks again!

 

Use the Factory Service Manual. Chilton and Haynes cover 1/10 of what the FSM does. Here's the link where I downloaded mine. https://www.mediafire.com/?dtgp3j2qjhbm67e Maybe you can find what you're looking for in here.

 

I downloaded the FSM (thank you!) but unfortunately there's nothing about adjusting the accelerator cable. I dunno, it's all out in the open so shouldn't be that difficult for gawd sakes. Anywhooo, I'm going to look at it again now with fresh eye's.

Meanwhile, do I need to keep any of the three sensors that are next to the thermostat? (2 Thermo sensors/switches and the BVSD.) Do any of those three have anything to do with the heater? If not then I will cap all of them.