Absolutely. Yes I did. Sold it all on ebay I believe and actually got a decent amount of money for it all.

 

Great thread! I know how annoying it can be to take photos as you work ( and your camera/phone gets super dirty)... SO, THANKS!!!!

 

You got any pics of this??? What do you mean by "air box"? Are you running a 32/36 w/ stock mechanical fuel pump or stock carb? THX

 

I might be in over my head but I read this thread twice and copied and pasted notes to reference later. I'm close to installing the new Weber carb but need some clarification on a few things, please...

1) SMOG PUMP: I might install AC later so please tell me if this is correct: Keep the smog pump but gut it so it spins freely, and until I install the AC later, I can remove the belt. Correct?

2) CHARCOAL CANISTER: My truck had only one charcoal canister and it was attached to the firewall. I removed it and what's left is a hose that was attached to the bottom of it that runs down into a hole in the trucks frame. Based on what I read, that hose is a vent for the gas tank. There was a of lot of WHOOSHING of air when I removed the locking gas cap for the first time in about two months so I assume the gas cap isn't vented. I read a few ways to deal with this and one was as simple as drilling a small hole in the gas cap. If I do that then what should I do with the hose that goes into the frame? Just loop it a few times like someone else did and attach it to the firewall?

3) HOLLEY FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR: I was told that the Holley fuel pressure regulator comes out of the box set at the same PSI needed for the 32/36 Weber. That means no adjustment is needed. If that's the case, then why buy a gauge? Do those Holley fuel pressure regulators go out of whack from road vibration after a while and that is the reason to have a gauge?

4) HEAT SHIELD ON DRIVERS SIDE: There's a big heat shield or something covering the exhaust on the drivers side. SEE 2 PHOTOS BELOW. This is a California vehicle. Can I remove that AND the wires/sensors below it?

5) REMOVAL OF PART: I have tried PB, WD40 and heat and still can't remove the part that's at the end of where the carb mounts! SEE PHOTO BELOW. I'm afraid I might break something. Got any suggestions?

Thank you

 

Anyone that can answer my questions above, please?

 

1. Smog pump, sorry can't help you. Never worked with one.
2. Gas venting, I would just buy a new cap. They're like $8 new at any parts store, then just plug thar hose if this works for you.
3. Holly pressure reg. Don't know if they come out of the box at 2.5 to 3psi? But a gauge isn't that much and then you can be sure. Stay away from the Mr. Gasket gauges, they crap out pretty quick.
4. Heat shield, you can remove it if you want. The wire you asked about is to your O2 sensor. It's no longer doing anything with the weber so it can go. If you want to remove the censor you will need a block off plate and new gasket. You can buy these plates from yotashop.com or LCE, etc.
5.the emissions "tree " is usually a bitch to remove. Plenty of PB blaster and a breaker bar. It usually feels like your going to break something before it pops loose. I've never broken one but it always feels like it will. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for replying, ChinkTruck. Hopefully someone can answer my other questions.

I removed the outer part of the heat shield (the "insulator") from the exhaust manifold thinking/hoping it would be easy to remove the rest of it but to do that requires the removal of the exhaust manifold and since I don't know how involved that is I'm not sure I want to do that.

QUESTIONS:

A) How involved is to remove the inner half of the insulator? (SEE IMAGE BELOW) It looks like I would have to take off the exhaust manifold and then there's that horizontal pipe running across the top to deal with too. Will I need to buy a bunch of spacers and new gaskets?

B) Is the pipe (SEE IMAGES BELOW) that runs horizontally across the top of the exhaust manifold and goes around the back of the engine to the passenger side for the heater?

Thanks again.

 

ok, so yeah that's different. Just realized I've never worked on a CA emissions yota. Usually the heat shield is one piece, just attached to the face of the exhaust manifold. If that one requires that you remove the manifold then you may have to do that if you want to ditch it. I wouldn't imagine that it's thick enough to require a spacer if you do remove it, should have plenty of threads left on the studs to take up the slack.
the pipe on top that runs behind the block is your exhaust gas recirculation pipe. I see you pulled your EGR valve so that pipes got to go. Again yotashop or LCE engineering sells block off plates for that as well. You also should remove the reed valve and it's components, it all located under the intake manifold, and kind of a bitch to get at. Unless you can figure how to still use the EGR valve, then you can leave it there. Again I've never done it that way but I'm pretty sure I've read about folks doing it. I would ditch it though, cleaner for your engine without that crap.

 

I contacted LCE and they said that the horizontal pipe in the photo I showed previously that runs from above the exhaust manifold around the back of the engine and connects to something under the intake manifold is an early air injection system. Going back in this thread I can see (and understand now!) where Kawa talked about removing this. Removing it from the drivers side involves blocking off the holes with two plates. It's difficult to see on the passenger side but LCE said it goes into the block and would require blocking the hole with a freeze plug. Is that true? If so, can anyone tell me how difficult this is to do on an engine that's still in the truck? Also, if I need to buy a freeze plug, does anyone know what size to ask for at the auto parts store?

Thanks

 

I contacted LCE and they said that the horizontal pipe in the photo I showed previously that runs from above the exhaust manifold around the back of the engine and connects to something under the intake manifold is an early air injection system. Going back in this thread I can see (and understand now!) where Kawa talked about removing this. Removing it from the drivers side involves blocking off the holes with two plates. It's difficult to see on the passenger side but LCE said it goes into the block and would require blocking the hole with a freeze plug. Is that true? If so, can anyone tell me how difficult this is to do on an engine that's still in the truck? Also, if I need to buy a freeze plug, does anyone know what size to ask for at the auto parts store?

Do I have to remove the reed valve?

Thanks

 

Remove everything emissions related, Reed valve included. If it leaves a empty hole in its place, buy the correct block off plates. Just tell your parts store you need a freeze plug for a 22r, they're all the same size for said motor.

 

Even though this is an 83 22R the air injection pipes on it are like the kind they put in the 20R's and LCE doesn't make block off plates for those where they are attached to the exhaust manifold. Apparently this is rare for the 83's. Got any suggestions for how to block those two holes off?

 

buy a standard model exhaust manifold and then you can block the EGR ports. That should do it. Hell you could even try to do it cheap and trim out some beer cans to place under the parts. To block off the port ways.

Here I traced out my EGR valve flange and made a beer can gasket to accommodate the block off plate as this part of the intake gasket ripped off when I removed the valve. Worked great. You can also buy sheets of gasket material from Napa or the like, but you'll need a good set of shears and a drill press to make anything intricate.

 

I have a CA edition too... I've had these same questions for a while... figured mine always looked different because of prior owners tweaking around.

 

magentawave, can you take some detailed pics of both sides of the engine, high and low? I have the same style emissions bs and wanna see how similar mine looks. As far as the block off plates go, I gotta buy some aluminum and use my buddy's bench grinder and metal tools to do some fabrication... it'll take pics. Tired of spending $ @ LCE... even though they're very helpful!

 

Thanks again!

 

I've got a '83 Calif truck also.
I snapped a timing chain, so the head and most everything else came out.
Made it real easy to pull all that smog junk off of there.
I'm putting on a header, so I'll use the block off plates on exhaust side.
There is nothing to close off on the block, just the head.
Will be using all LCE block off plates.

 

ChinkTruck: Do you back those super thin beer can block off plates with a gasket? I'm surprised you can get away with something so thin.

sr5speed: I think you should see some fairly detailed photos of both sides of my engine in my previous threads on this page and maybe the page before this. If not then let me know and I'll see what else I have. I'm trying to email some photos from my phone to my gmail at the moment but it's taking forever to come through. Check the photos in my post below (although those are without the smog junk).

 

So again, I'm pretty sure this is a California 22R, hence some of the smog junk might be a little different.

1) SEE FIRST IMAGE BELOW: I removed the insulator and the air injection and put the exhaust manifold back. I still have the 2 holes to plug. The surface isn't flush where the 2 holes are and LCE doesn't sell plates for this. I'm going to tap some threads into those holes and put bolts in them. I should have done that before putting the exhaust manifold back on, but duh, I didn't know how I would deal with this then. QUESTION: How tight should the bolts/studs be for the exhaust manifold? I'm asking because I was surprised to find that they were just a little past being finger tight when I removed them.

2) SEE SECOND IMAGE BELOW: Do I need to cap off the two openings where I pulled the hoses off the back of the smog pump?

3) SEE THIRD IMAGE BELOW: There are two sensors that I'm not sure what to do with. One is in front of the thermostat and the other just behind the oil filter. Are those for the water temp and oil level idiot lights?

Thanks again.

 

no, you don't use the beer can itself as a block off plate. You cut out a piece in the shape of the mounting surface, complete with holes where the bolts go through. Should look like a gasket with no opening in the middle. The place it over the exhaust port holes and put the recirculation pipe back on. You've effectively blocked the flow. Your threaded hole and bolt idea will probably work to, I would thread it in with high temp JB weld to make sure it seals good. The exhaust manifold bolts don't require much torque, 14psi if I remember correctly. But you should try to look it up to be sure. Honestly you should consider just buying a standard exhaust manifold and blocking it the correct way, they can be found fairly cheap on amazon or Ebay, $60 or so and will bolt right up. And yes those are you temp and oil pressure sensors.

edit: just looked at your pic and noticed the raised nipples on the exhaust ports. Try to grab those with a pair of plyers and pull them out, they look like set collars and they usually just sit there. They could be pressed in though or held snuggly with rust. Guess you'll find out when you go to tap them. Anyways yeah, just save your lunch money and buy a new manifold. Lol