I don't think those are for the heater... if you're weary of pulling them, just leave them screwed in, just doing connect the plug. You should look for the 82 FSM. There's weird differences between the years, maybe you can find it in there.

 

There are 3 metal tubes poking up on the passenger side that run to the gas tank (Labeled 1, 2, 3 in image below) and there are still two points left to connect hoses to on the fuel pump and one on the carburetor. Can someone tell me which of the three connects to the carburetor and which of the remaining two connect to the fuel pump and where on the fuel pump, please?

NOTE: This is an 82.

 

Can someone please take a look at the images below and tell me if I put the fuel lines in the right places?

 

Update, the problem was the liquid filled gauge fails when the engine gets hot. Set the fuel pressure on the truck to 3 lbs while its cold and forget about it. He is pic of my 82 with the desmog and weber install. It runs and idles flawlessly.

 

You beat me to it but I called Summit Racing last week and the tech guy there said to NOT use the liquid filled gauge that's being recommended on this thread anywhere that gets hot (like under your hood) so I'm surprised no one has mentioned this until now.

 

Hello . We have a farm truck 1982 4x4 . It was a farm truck before i got it bad shape . It;s stock 22r but has no smog pump . heater . I want to remove everything else i can but will leave it with stock carb an motor for now . Will be farm truck only an not for on road . Bottom hose on Hac value not hooked up to anything an there is no check valve on dist . Gas tank hose's not hooked up also . Cleaned tank an put on new hose's on ,not sure how they hook up to tank .Other farmer died so have no one to ask about it . Thank for your time Dale,

 

Im new here, this thread is awesome and has helped me tremendously! I have an 84 22R pickup. I want to install the water block off kit that LCE made in response to this thread. The kit says that the air injection block off plates won't fit anything pre 85. This thread is on an 83 if I'm not mistake and the original poster says he installed it on his BUT the only pic he has posted of this part is not on his engine it says...why will they not work, they look like they would fit my truck and LCE says "they just won't" when I asked them why. Im certainly just a shade tree mechanic so I don't understand why they won't work...is the hole spacing different? Could someone give me a technical answer to this? Thanks

 

Hey, specifically how did you guys sell your stock Aisan carb and all the desmog junk you pulled out? eBay, Craigslist or a Classified on this forum?

 

I am looking into this mod, my 22r is having overheating problems, brand new water pump, thermostat, fresh coolant, rad is clear, clutch fan is good, dont know why it is still overheating so easy!! Dose anyone know if deleting the EGR could help with overheating! Any help apprectiated!

 

This thread never dies, and it should not. I have read it in the past, and I am re reading it now. I am trying to retune and time my setup (84 22r, Weber 38, Offenhauser intake, Engnbldr valves, NW off-road cam, and headers) I already have the EGR items removed, but my question is in regard to the VSV and vacuum switches on the passenger side. What do you do with the electrical connections? Do I just disconnect them or cut the wires that are going into the wiring harness and remove the VSV and the switch next to it?
I removed the Charcoal canister. Will a vented fuel cap be sufficient? I saw the boat vent idea and I have heard of people running the vent line into the frame rail too, but a vented cap seems like the simplest.

 

Keeping this thread alive, I (finally) had nice weather and de-smogged our '83 and installed a new Weber from LCE. Took over 5 hours, but the truck fired up on the first crank once I was finished. So pleased with the way it runs now, AND the major increase in power. Now I need to do a thorough cleaning of the engine room.

See my thread on this conversion in the normal posts. Some photos too.

 

Hi, can you provide the link, or do I need to search your past posts?

 

I had to put my 82 up last fall because the front axle was leaking on both sides, almost caught on fire. I stopped driving it and it finally warmed up enough that I could rebuild the front axle, marlin kit made it a breeze, a messy breeze. So I am back to wrenching on my 82. This is a great thread and it should never die! It helped me out in a massive way when doing my de-smog. My truck likes being free so, and I like the weber carb a lot. I will no longer need any of my factory parts. I think I have complete smog/emissions system with hardware if anyone is looking for one and I also have the factory carb, had cold idle issues when I removed it but ran good when warm. But this is a great thread, besides the liquid gauges, what other fuel pressure gauges are out there? I have not been able to get my tach to work, tried to run a wire from the coil to the P screw on the dash cluster, still no tach. I have also noticed that my od does not work, maybe they are related. The trip od does work but I think something is wrong internally. I have an extra cluster, it looks pretty rough, though. I may hook it up and see what happpens.

Thanks

 

Sent you a PM about the smog parts. Appreciate a reply when you have a chance.

Darrel

 

Link to my other post re: the weber conversion;

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...erized-303823/

 

Hello,

1981 toyota 22r 4x4 California truck. I'm trying to get it smogged. Redid the 40ft of vacuum line, tested the VSV's, TSV, ASV, ERG... and they seem to be functioning correctly. The air bypass hose from the smog pump (Air injection system) puffs (puf-puff-puff) when the truck is fully warmed up in time with the clicking 2nd VSV. Is this normal? The rate increases with RPM. Just want to check before I take it in, as the manual doesn't state what proper fully warmed up functioning is supposed to be.

Jim

 

 

Why do you want to install these "block offs"??

 

[QUOTE=Pumpkinyota;52046447]By the way, I forgot to mention this earlier, but if you are sticking with stock wiring, you can just unplug and remove the ECC, it is no longer functional.

For you Kawa, with all the work you are doing, I would HIGHLY recommend just rewiring from scratch using a painless wiring kit. I used the 18 circuit universal offroad waterproof kit, and it worked perfectly with only minor modifications. It took me about two days to do, but it was so worth it. EVERYTHING in my truck works better now. As I removed my old harness, I noticed that every old wire I cut into was very oxidized inside. These trucks are 30+ years old now, so that is not hugely surprising. What is surprising is how much resistance that oxidation adds to your wiring. My rig charges much better now, the headlights and marker lamps are dazzlingly bright, and there is no alternator noise in my stereo. Also, my motor seems to run stronger, I believe due to better voltage to the coil.

If you decide to go this route and need help, hit me up. I still have my notes, and can talk you through a lot of it. Also, maybe then you could do the rewire write up that I never got around to doing [/QUOT


Did this write up ever happen? I would love to see how you did it. I know its a old thread but worth a shot.

 

New here and have been reading this desmog topic extensively for the past week. I picked up an '85 Xcab 4wd flatbed w/22R last November and after fixing the rusted out frame on both sides behind the cab, am finally at the desmog stage.Just wanted to say a BIG Thank You to everyone that has commented on this thread with tips and tricks for the desmog.
My LCE block off kit and carb should be here tomorrow. I'm doing the head gasket while I have everything stripped down.
Anyone that is needing takeoff smog crap complete with a working stock carb (elect choke) shoot me a PM with an offer. ( I'm located in Montana) CHEAP!