Yes I do believe those fuel lines are hooked up properly.

 

Got it running without any issues; thanks for the help dudes! Noticed that fuel pressure was at 2.5ish lbs and tried adjusting, doesn't seem to go anywhere so I just spun it back lol. Runs so much better, I was barely able to accelerate before let alone get above 40 mph.

 

I've also noticed that my fuel pressure gauge registers when I first crank up the truck but doesn't when the truck is hot. I just adjusted mine to what shows 2.5 ish and it runs good.

 

That looks to be correct - the fuel returns don't matter as much as the delivery does since there is only one fuel line in the tank that sucks from the bottom of the tank. Obviously, if you aren't getting any fuel then you have the fuel delivery hooked up wrong.

On another note, had my fuel lines ran slightly differently. Instead of having the fuel return going down to the hard line by the starter like yours, I had mine going to the hard line on the passenger fender wall next to your fuel delivery line and completely removed the hard line down by the starter. Both ways are correct, I just did it that way for looks and simplicity.

Also, what is that fitting for on the manifold just behind the brake booster hose (in the picture above)? Looks like a brake flare fitting on an NPT fitting.

 

I love that people are using my FPR mounting mod idea! Makes me feel quite innovative!

 

What exactly is the point if the new plate under neath the intake? Couldn't I block off the water on the back of the pass side timing cover and block the port on the center of the head and then just run my heater line to the factory plate that's on the intake since there is already a barb on there? I just ordered a weber, fpr, and the block plates for the egr on head and manifold and air injection plates.

 

It essentially eliminates the cold mixture heater (CMH) that mounts to the bottom of the intake manifold. It still allows for the ability to run the heater hose from the bottom of the intake manifold if you choose to go that way. The CMH isn't an absolute necessity. It's function is to simply warm the air/fuel mixture for better atomization and combustion on cold starts. It shuts off once the engine is warm. Mine was never connected on my engine and I never had issues with cold starts (I live in Maryland - moderate climate, but winters can get fairly cold lingering below freezing for days or weeks at a time). Since I never had problems without it, I figured that the block off plate wouldn't cause me any additional problems. In desmogging my engine, I was going for the most simple and least complicated engine setup so I removed everything that wasn't absolutely necessary for the engine to run except for the heater core hoses. My thought process is that there is less to go wrong and less to troubleshoot if something does go wrong.

 

Ok so for the sake of me being cheap could I do away with the water going to the passanger side timing cover and do away with the heater line in the center of the head and just run my heater off of the straight barb on the factory plate on the intake? Seems like it would work the same only difference is I would retain my sensor?

 

Yep, that is essentially what I did, but with the LCE manifold plate instead of the factory plate. What sensor are you talking about retaining??

 

I meant the heater sorry.. Did you use just reg rubber line to plumb it back to the fire wall. I noticed the factory is a molded line. I'm guessing it makes no difference molded or not as long as it doesn't pinch anywhere. Great write up by the way. I'm following it to the t minus the plate under the intake and the crossover plate behind the head

 

When I originally desmogged my engine, I used the original hose (utilizing the factory fitting under the manifold) to run the heater hose. I have rebuilt my engine since, but I haven't finished the rest of my truck so it isn't installed and fully plumbed yet. I plan on using a new hose to keep everything clean. Having a molded hose makes no difference as long as it isn't kinked, like you said. On other things I have done in the past where I wanted or needed a molded hose, I took some rough measurements to the auto parts store to find a preformed universal hose. I have a pretty good rap with my local stores so they let me go in the back and rummage through their hoses to find one that matches well. A lot of times the preformed hoses will fit multiple applications, but need to be trimmed to fit a particular application. It's basically the manufacturer's way of meeting several needs without actually producing several different hoses. Follow me?

 

Got a few questions:

What do I do with these all the electrical stuff on the various smog sensors? Just unplug them and tie them up?
Here's what I'm talking about:


Three or four in this one:



Next question:
What about this line that ran into the charcoal canister, if I remember correctly?


What about this? Can I just remove the sensor/pump thing and plug it without getting a plate?



Also what do I do with this?

The large tube ran into the air intake.

 

There are a couple things that you could do with your old, unused connectors. You can just wrap everything up with electrical tape and let it hang or you can remove it all from the wiring harness.

If you choose to keep it all, you need to make sure that you see it up well with electrical tape to ensure that it doesn't cause any kind of short or issues if it gets wet or contacts something that it shouldn't. Also, it is VERY important that if you keep all all of the vacuum switches that you cap all of the vacuum ports with plugs - especially the ones directly attached to the manifold. If you fail to do so, you'll end up with vacuum leaks and false vacuum readings at the Emissions Control Computer. I'm not sure how the false readings would affect anything since the ECC shouldn't be controlling anything any more, but it could.

Originally, I just taped everything up and let it hang and everything was fine, but in my build I decided to completely strip the wiring harness of all emissions wiring. I started at the ECC and worked my way back through the harness to remove everything that I no longer needed. I had it completely done in an evening. It really isn't hard to do - just takes a pair of wire cutters/strippers, a soldering gun and a whole bunch of electrical tape.

As for to the fuel line going to the charcoal canister, it shouldn't have anything going through it now and the charcoal canisters should be gone so you can either just leave it there (capped or uncapped-doesn't matter) or you can yank the hard line completely.

 

oh, and BTW, it helps if you don't take pictures so close up. A lot of the equipment on these trucks look different from year to year, but do the same job. A close up picture doesn't help as much since you can't see where exactly the part is located under the hood. Try to take pictures with more points of reference in them. Like that last picture - I have no idea what that is and I didn't take anything like that off of my truck, but if you backed up a bit I would likely know what it is and what it does based off of where it is located.

 

The last picture is the thing directly under the fuel pump. It has a large line (the size of a radiator hose) that ran into the bottom of the stock intake.

Good to know I can just pull the sensors and wrap up the wiring.

What about the sensor directly behind the carb and beside where the new PCV line will run? Its in the middle of the intake between the two separate sections.

 

I've also been using intake plugs to plug up holes on the intake. I should have no sensors left when I'm done.

 

You shouldn't have to worry about removing anything - it can all be removed. I'm not kidding when I tell people to remove everything that isn't a carburetor, cylinder head, distributor, fuel pump, intake manifold or exhaust manifold. If you remove something that creates a hole in the head, intake manifold or exhaust manifold then you need to plug or plate it off - all of which is available from LCE. It's really that easy.

That vacuum port in the center of the head between the intake runners is removed and blocked off with this:
http://www.lceperformance.com/Water-...-p/1016011.htm

Your engine bay will look like this plus radiator hoses, brake booster hose, heater core hoses and fuel lines:


I recommend the LCE Emissions Block Off Plate Kit to anybody who isn't as familiar with engines because it has everything you need to do the job right. It then turns into a simple jigsaw puzzle; you remove something and find the plate with the right shape to cover the hole you just made. Plus it comes with instructions - You can't go wrong with it:
http://www.lceperformance.com/Emissi...-p/1016035.htm

 

I've finished my install, idle works great however when I snap the accelerator it will bog and backfire through the carb. I've added a new distributor cap, rotor, plugs wires, and fuel filter since and am still having the issue. Any ideas?

 

Gunslinger I've had mine complete for a few weeks now. Complete desmog and weber 32/36 installed and I have the same problem. Idles and runs/drives fine unless I go from idle to WOT very fast. If I have the RPMs up a good bit going down the highway and floor it it's not really noticeable. Mine doesn't backfire through the carb though, just bogs down really bad for just a sec or two then picks right back up. I've tried my timing at just about every adjustment possible and I've adjusted the carb time after time according to webers directions. I've made zero headway on resolving the problem and every thread I read never has an ending with a fix. If you figure it out please post up on this thread and I'll do the same. Good luck

 

Will do, I got mine to stop firing by mixing it a little richer but it still isn't right. I'm going to do spark plugs, valve adjustment, new valve cover gakset set, and do the timing. Last thing I'll try is a new distributor because it might not be advancing the timing or I'll just tack on 5 degrees and plug the vacuum lines.