They do not. The 20R had a very different exhaust manifold. LCE does carry this part, call them and they will get you set up.

 

I've been running my desmogged 89 for a couple of months now and it's still running great. I completely forgot when I tore out the carbon canisters that I couldn't find a vented fuel cap, so I drilled a small hole in mine for the vent. So far no issues, I am just curious if anyone knows if this will be a problem, and if so, where can I get a vented cap that will fit? I tried both rock auto and some local parts stores and no luck. The closest I could find was one with a button to release the pressure. Thanks.

 

Since you don't have the vapor return line from the canisters going to the tank, you could always put a small breather filter where that line would go into the tank.

 

Hello kawaz I just rebuilt my motor as you mite have seen but I've done the desmog except for the regulator well I've been gettin some sputtering at high idle and some black soot so I'm ordering it today but my question is how did you mount it to the manifold did you tap a hole are what just woundering and the other thing do you have another filter that you use besides the one from the factory on the fender well thanks

 

Black soot may indicate that you are running on the rich side - might want to check your spark plugs to see if they are covered in soot too. It may be sputtering because there is too much fuel and not enough air to burn it efficiently. Could also be a timing issue as well but I would get the regulator on before you make any adjustments because you'll likely have to adjust it again.

For mounting the fuel pressure regulator, I used an existing hole on the manifold and just found a bolt that would thread into it properly. The mounting bracket comes with the regulator.

For fuel filters, I use those see-through in line filters that you can get from pretty much any auto parts store. They have replaceable filter cartridges and easily allow you to see how dirty the filter is. Here's a link for them:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...rm=fuel+filter

 

Got a couple questions. Thinking about taking on the desmog myself. Having some problems with the factory carb so I already planned kn the webber and then found this thread. So my question is because my motor is completely stock in guessing it would be easier to just get a header and not block off more holes. Right? Also does the lce direct fit bolt right up to the stock exhaust? The website says it does but may need some fabbing. Anyone use this header. Or anything else. Trying to not put a new exhaust. Also if I were to get the weber/intake combo would I need to worry about working my 30yo motor with a 163k because of the increased power of the header/weber/intake. Or is it something I don't need to worry about.

Also I didn't see anywhere of how long this took people. I don't have a garage and it's my dd. If the truck is down for a day or two that's fine just want to get as much info as possible before I dig in and forget something and have to wait a week for parts. Also is there anything else that I'll be removing and wouldn't hurt to upgrade or put fresh parts in?

Really well written thread with lots of great info.

Thanks

 

If you have all the parts, doing this in a day is no problem. Takes longer if you're making everything "pretty" like kawa did. Shouldn't cause problems to slap the new stuff on the old engine. Only problem I can see is if you didn't tune the weber properly and ran too rich you could wash out your rings. Depending on how good/bad you engine condition is will dictate what kind of gains you'll see.
With the weber I would HIGHLY recomend going with either the LCE spiral adaptor to the stock manifold or (my personal favorite setup) the dual plane manifold. If you go with the dual plane, make sure you have the right H2O plate (on the bottom of the manifold) and thermostat housing/coolant neck. If you need LCE has both of those for sale.

 

Mine took about a day, I had to run back a forth for parts and so forth,

Get the LCE twin spirel adapter, the block offs, and the carb. Get the same fuel pressure reg that everyone is running on this thread(holly?).
I got the webber fuel pressure reg from LCE, sucks.

Look at getting a new vacume hoses, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, T-stat and oring as well. I also changed the coolent as well.

Also I seafoamed it before I changed over to the weber as well, so I could blow out the carbon.

 

You can go either route, but most aftermarket headers still have the air injection ports so you'll still need to get the block off plates. A while back, I convinced LCE to make a desmog kit, I would just go with that because it is cheaper than buying all the parts individually. It's really not difficult at all, but can be scary at first when you start ripping everything out.

I went with the Rock Ripper stainless header. I'm sure the LCE header is just as good, but it is more costly. There shouldn't be any fabrication involved with either one other than welding it into your existing exhaust.

As far as your engine handling the increased power, it'll be ok. In fact, it'll probably pop the hood and thank you for removing all that smog crap than was recirculating dirty air through it. You'll only get about 7-10 hp out of the whole deal which is rather good considering you're likely only putting out bout 90hp as is, but your fuel efficiency should increase.

If you need any help or have any questions, feel free to ask. I haven't come across a single person who has regretted or had tremendous difficulties desmogging their engine.

 

Josh,
I am curious what your issue with the weber FPR is? The holley seems to be fine for the 32/36 (cheaper too) but I needed lower pressure than the holley would go (1.5 psi) for my DCOE's so I'm using the weber/redline one and haven't had a problem. Not calling you out or anything, just curious what the prob is other than "it sucks"

Also, I completely agree with Kawa. When I did my desmog about 12 yrs ago, with home made block offs, I loved it and never looked back.

 

X2 on Josh's comment. Scope out my fuel pressure regulator setup - it was fairly cheap, does the job well and looks good. Spiral adapter is great (prevents the leaks that you get with the 2 piece webber adapter).

Seamfoam can work, but don't run it through your new weber! Do it on with the factory one before you change it out like Josh said

 

Bingle

I had a really hard time adjusting the unit and had a hard time keeping the pressure set.
I also got the guage with it and that guage after a while would not stay on the number. Just bounced around, so after a while I could not tell what pressure I was at.

 

Before I start going through this entire thread I have two questions please...

>>>>>>>>I'll be doing the de-smog on a 1982 22R (Sunrader motorhome) and will replace the existing Aisian carb with a Webber at the same time.

Anywhoo, here are my questions...

1) Do I have to replace the exhaust or can I use the existing exhaust with the plugs that come with the LCE kit?

2) I've read that everyone is glad they did the de-smog but has anyone regretted going with the Webber because of lower MPG?

Thanks

 

I went from 12mpg with my messed up stock reman carb to 18 with the weber.

 

I also put the High elevation jet kit in mine. I am sure that makes some difference.

 

Does the high elevation jet kit make it more fuel efficient in higher elevations only, or at any elevation?

 

http://www.lceperformance.com/Weber-...-p/1035002.htm


I live at 7K, so this was a must.

If you lean out the jets a bit you should get better fuel MPG. However if your at normal elevations, run it stock weber jets for a while and go from there.

 

I did notice a power gain on mine, I had the same problem on hills. After I could keep 50+ on the same long grades.
Make sure you use the LCE or transdap adapter or you will have vacume leaks.
Also new plugs and fuel filters are a must.

 

Thanks Taco, LCE takes pretty good care of me. They're are just a good company in general and they actually featured my truck in their newsletter this month so I'm stoked about that.

Magenta, I would go with the stock jets first before you make any adjustment or do any experiments. With high altitude jets, you'll likely have a mixture that is far too lean. As far as fuel economy, I was easily getting around 21mpg on my desmogged old worn out engine prior to the rebuild. But before I desmogged it, I was lucky to get 10mpg with a jacked up factory carb and emissions.

 

Kawazx636. I was just wondering if it would be possible for you to mark an x on the California equipped fsm. I am marking it in my book but some of the stuff has slightly different names. I'm sure most is the same just wanted to be sure.