Well, I started the rebuild on my aisin carb, and found too many problems, so I decided not to be cheap and get the weber. I am leaning toward the manual choke, just curious what you guys have done...

Also, while I'm waiting on my carb, I need to tackle another issue related to the desmog, and wondered if anyone had any ideas. I pulled the smog pump which is also the tensioner for my ac belt. I want to keep ac, so I need a solution. What I am thinking, is either get someone handier than I to fabricate a bracket for a generic idler pulley, or to try and gut the old smog pump and use it as a pulley... Any ideas or input is greatly appreciated.

 

I got the manual choke and really like it. It was very easy to install and fit great right by the cig lighter. Let us know about the ac option you choose. I do not have air now, but plan on it in the future.. Have you searched for a fabricated pulley yet? You would think someone has made it for the desmogged trucks by now.

 

^x2 on the manual choke. I like knowing that I control the choke and not the carb. Before I started my build, I pretty much only had to use the choke in cold weather - all summer long it would start up with a couple pumps of the gas. I would never go back to an electric or water choke again.

As for the smog pump, you might be able to gut it to use as an tensioner pulley (pretty clever idea). If your A/C compressor has a pivot point (like the stock alternator) you might be able to just get a shorter belt, eliminate the smog pump and use the pivot of the A/C compressor to tension the belt. Post a picture of the belt routing and I might be able to give you a better idea, but I've never worked on an A/C 22R.

 

The pre 83 22rs have a model with ac and no smog pump, so a pulley is available and a specialized belt. However, my problem is mounting the pulley. It may end up being a painstaking search through the junkyards to find the bracket for the a/c no smog pump configuration. Unfortunately, the ac compressor doesn't have a pivot, otherwise I would just do the shorter belt. I'm on a trip, so it will be a little while before I can get any good pictures, but I will post what I finally end up doing. I think it will be a good edition o the thread for those who are deleting smog and want to keep ac... We need it here down south!

 

My ultimate solution to the problem of ac and no smog pump has been to gut the smog pump and re-install it as a big fat idler pulley. It works great, just isn't all that pretty. I will be on the lookout for a replacement. There is a guy who sells one for the old fjs which may fit, but he wants $100 for it...

I'm glad I had that thing on there for so many years, when I opened it up the guts came out and a bunch of carbon goop... Who knows how long it had been doing nothing. Anyway, if anyone decides to go this route, it is quite easy. 3 or 4 fasteners on the back of the pump to remove. Then pry off the cover and remove all of the pieces. (I found a carbon rod and some bearings all jumbled up.) Next I just gave it a good cleaning and cleaned up the junk as well as I could in there. I gave it a new coating of grease to keep it turning smoothly. Lastly, i sealed it back up. I left the two hose fittings open when I was finished. I may cap them at some point to prevent dirt getting in, but based on where they are, I am not terribly concerned. I did also drill a small weep hole (I think about 1/4 inch) in the bottom of the smog pump case to drain any water or garbage that may make its way in there.

Hope that helps anyone else dealing with this issue. I would love to hear if anyone has come up with any other solutions...

 

I've been searching the site, And can't really find anything on the 9 Bolt Manifolds, That come on the 20r, I have a Weber Carb 20r/22r hybrid set up. It seems like there is far less things to block off on this manifold and its running a Electric Fuel pump Does the Electric Fuel pump require more hoses? Like I have no PCV on the manifold but I have it on the Head, were do I route this. I'll post a picture of the manifold.

 

Basically it has everything circles in red, Minus the yellow, The first circle from Left to right I don't know what to do with, I don't know were to route the PCV from the valve cover. And I think I delete everything else accept the Second Yet circle.

 

My Weber came with a plate that had a barb on it that fits perfectly in your yellow square. You hook that barb to the pcv valve. The circle to the left looks like your temperature sending unit, you'll need that. the bottom left circle looks like your brake vacuum, you'll need that. Everything else can be blocked off. So you know, I have a 9 bolt manifold but I believe it is for a 22r as it is a little different from yours. I left the bottom of it alone because there was nothing there to plate.

 

Hey Kawa, I'm replacing my Cali smog 22r intake manifold with a federal emissions one and was wondering if the bvsv below the thermostat housing can be re routed to the one on top. I don't have a hole for the one below the thermo housing but haven't committed to desmogging yet.

 

I'm with plowzilla, on the PCV valve going to the yellow square. However, your temp sending unit is located in the port farthest to the right (not circled) next to the thermostat housing. The second from the left goes to your brake booster and everything else gets plugged up.

 

In my above post, It isnt the picture of my manifold just the closest one I could find the thing in the yellow square is missing not there at all, everything else exactly the same. So thats why I ask about the PCV valve, And I think the first red circle goes to the Heater or somthing.

 

warmonger, I can tell you how to get rid of emissions but I'm not the one to ask about how to get it back.

BWcelicoma, I would snap a picture of your own intake so that we can better help you.

 

I was reading through the documentation which came with my weber, and it mentions routing the pcv to the fitting on the air cleaner. I'm sure that the one on the manifold probably works as well. However, I know the pcv valve is only designed to allow gas out of the crankcase at higher power settings so as not to mess up the idle. The vacuum in the manifold is also less with a more open throttle. So would you get a more effective ventilation of crankcase vapors with a input upstream of the carb in this case, the fitting on the air cleaner?

 

You would get better ventilation using the port on the manifold over the port on the weber air cleaner primarily because the port on the manifold pulls vacuum. The port on the air cleaner pulls extremely little, if any vacuum, but that's not to say that you can't use it because the positive pressure in the crank case will vent out through the PCV regardless. However, my personal concern with routing a PCV through the air cleaner is the fact that if your engine has any amount of blow by, you will likely have a little bit of oil spewing through the PCV valve. Personally, I do not want that oil going through my carb and reeking havoc on my jets. At least if it is routed to the manifold any oil that gets through will go directly into the combustion chambers and get burned off which isn't a big deal as long as it's not so much that it is fowling the spark plug or causing excessive carbon build up.

 

Two Shots front and back of my manifold no spot for the PCV valve?

 

 

Now that I see your manifold, I can see your problem. What I thought was your temp sensor appears to be the heater hose outlet. Is that correct? If so, you can get the LCE 9 bolt adapter plate for the bottom with the 90* elbow/ barb fitting for your heater hose. Then remove the original heater barb and replace it with one that will fit your PCV hose; not sure but I think it's a 3/8th. Hope that helps

 

I have the LCE 9 bolt adapter plate so I run that to the heater, and you are saying the heater spot on top of the manifold can be converted to the size of the PVC hose and used the same way if I understand correctly?

 

Yeah thats what I meant, oh boy was I wrong....you would get a motor full of anti-freeze. Sorry, it was late and I was tired .
But you can go and buy a NPT thread tap and drill a new hole and thread it.
I picked one up from my local ace hardware and was pretty simply to do.

 

Thats what I was thinking, I think I had it routed through the EGR block off plate on my old engine but that wasnt my doing someone drilled and tapped a hole in the plate. That doesnt sound right either, I like the drill a hole idea but I dont wanna fracture or make any weak spots if I mess it up. I've been looking at this all week like What the hell were is the PCV suppose to go. Can I route the PCV valve to any of the area's were there would be a blocked off vaccuum like on the front where I put the plugs?