HELP!!! Break down in Seattle
#1
HELP!!! Break down in Seattle
Need some help troubleshooting this. On my way to Seattle and I broke down right before my destination! I drove the truck 300 miles to get here, made a rest stop, and now it won't start. Turns over but won't start. Here's the info:
85' Toyota pickup w/ 22re. New plugs, cap, rotor, wires, battery good (12.7 v's), recently put a new timing chain in it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, just not sure what I should try next. I'm stranded at a Starbuck's too, and I hate those places (at least I can check the forums, lol)
-matt
85' Toyota pickup w/ 22re. New plugs, cap, rotor, wires, battery good (12.7 v's), recently put a new timing chain in it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, just not sure what I should try next. I'm stranded at a Starbuck's too, and I hate those places (at least I can check the forums, lol)
-matt
#2
Registered User
Wish I could come help ya but unfortunately I've got stuff going tonight.
If it turns over but won't start:
1) Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the ignition? Makes a brief whirring noise.
2) Are you getting a spark? You can pull a plug and check for spark when cranking the engine, though this takes two people.
3) Check your fuses and relays for the fuel pump, EFI, ignition, etc.
If it turns over but won't start:
1) Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the ignition? Makes a brief whirring noise.
2) Are you getting a spark? You can pull a plug and check for spark when cranking the engine, though this takes two people.
3) Check your fuses and relays for the fuel pump, EFI, ignition, etc.
#3
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could also be a bad alternator
if u can get a jump and get it started remove the negative wire from the battery and if it immediately dies then its your alternator not holding any charge
if u can get a jump and get it started remove the negative wire from the battery and if it immediately dies then its your alternator not holding any charge
#4
I'll try it and repost, worst case I'll get a tow to George town and troubleshoot it in my friends driveway. Maybe ask around and see if anyone can help then, but I'll try a jump, and troubleshoot the ignition components more first. Havn't messed with fuel pumps at all before so I'll read up on that too.
#5
Its not good to disconnect a battery with the engine running unless its carbed otherwise possible damage to your computer. check for spark and proper fuel pressure. Tap on the igniter and see if it helps. Is there oil in it? Test ur fuel pump to a battery. See if the pump runs during cranking time.
#6
Registered User
Do you have a multimeter or test light? Look for power on +B in the check connector when ignition on. If no, check EFI fuse on passenger inner fender, and IGN fuse in drivers kick (at least, that's where it is on my 89). If the fuses are good and no power on +B, probably either bad EFI Main Relay or bad ignition switch.
If power on +B, try jumping +B and FP - that will bypass the circuit opening relay and send power to the fuel pump when ignition is on. After setting the jumper, have a helper turn ignition on (but not crank it) while you listen at the tank to make sure the pump runs. Leave jumper attached & try to start. If it starts, either bad COR, or bad connection.
If pump is okay, check for spark as mentioned. If no spark, check for power on positive terminal of ignition coil when ignition is on. If no power, either bad ignition switch, bad connection, or maybe a blown fusible link or broken connection somewhere.
If no spark but there IS power to the coil, most likely bad coil, possibly bad igniter or bad connection or blown signal coil in the distrib, or bad connection TO the signal coil. To check the ignition coil, make sure ignition off & disconnect all wires to coil. Between positive & neg terminals of coil should be .5 to .7 ohms (that's right - about half an ohm). Between positive terminal and high tension terminal (where cable attaches) should be between 11,400 - 15,600 ohms (11.4k -15.6k ohms). Unfortunately it's possible for a coil to pass this test but still be bad. But it's not real common.
The resistance of the signal coil in the distrib should be 140-180 ohms. Air gap between the signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projection should be .2 - .4 mm (0.008 - 0.016 in)
Good luck!
If power on +B, try jumping +B and FP - that will bypass the circuit opening relay and send power to the fuel pump when ignition is on. After setting the jumper, have a helper turn ignition on (but not crank it) while you listen at the tank to make sure the pump runs. Leave jumper attached & try to start. If it starts, either bad COR, or bad connection.
If pump is okay, check for spark as mentioned. If no spark, check for power on positive terminal of ignition coil when ignition is on. If no power, either bad ignition switch, bad connection, or maybe a blown fusible link or broken connection somewhere.
If no spark but there IS power to the coil, most likely bad coil, possibly bad igniter or bad connection or blown signal coil in the distrib, or bad connection TO the signal coil. To check the ignition coil, make sure ignition off & disconnect all wires to coil. Between positive & neg terminals of coil should be .5 to .7 ohms (that's right - about half an ohm). Between positive terminal and high tension terminal (where cable attaches) should be between 11,400 - 15,600 ohms (11.4k -15.6k ohms). Unfortunately it's possible for a coil to pass this test but still be bad. But it's not real common.
The resistance of the signal coil in the distrib should be 140-180 ohms. Air gap between the signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projection should be .2 - .4 mm (0.008 - 0.016 in)
Good luck!
Last edited by sb5walker; 10-29-2009 at 05:13 PM.
#7
Registered User
Do you have a multimeter or test light? Look for power on +B in the check connector when ignition on. If no, check EFI fuse on passenger inner fender, and IGN fuse in drivers kick (at least, that's where it is on my 89). If the fuses are good and no power on +B, probably either bad EFI Main Relay or bad ignition switch.
If power on +B, try jumping +B and FP - that will bypass the circuit opening relay and send power to the fuel pump when ignition is on. After setting the jumper, have a helper turn ignition on (but not crank it) while you listen at the tank to make sure the pump runs. Leave jumper attached & try to start. If it starts, either bad COR, or bad connection.
If pump is okay, check for spark as mentioned. If no spark, check for power on positive terminal of ignition coil when ignition is on. If no power, either bad ignition switch, bad connection, or maybe a blown fusible link or broken connection somewhere.
If no spark but there IS power to the coil, most likely bad coil, possibly bad igniter or bad connection or blown signal coil in the distrib, or bad connection TO the signal coil. To check the ignition coil, make sure ignition off & disconnect all wires to coil. Between positive & neg terminals of coil should be .5 to .7 ohms (that's right - about half an ohm). Between positive terminal and high tension terminal (where cable attaches) should be between 11,400 - 15,600 ohms (11.4k -15.6k ohms). Unfortunately it's possible for a coil to pass this test but still be bad. But it's not real common.
The resistance of the signal coil in the distrib should be 140-180 ohms. Air gap between the signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projection should be .2 - .4 mm (0.008 - 0.016 in)
Good luck!
If power on +B, try jumping +B and FP - that will bypass the circuit opening relay and send power to the fuel pump when ignition is on. After setting the jumper, have a helper turn ignition on (but not crank it) while you listen at the tank to make sure the pump runs. Leave jumper attached & try to start. If it starts, either bad COR, or bad connection.
If pump is okay, check for spark as mentioned. If no spark, check for power on positive terminal of ignition coil when ignition is on. If no power, either bad ignition switch, bad connection, or maybe a blown fusible link or broken connection somewhere.
If no spark but there IS power to the coil, most likely bad coil, possibly bad igniter or bad connection or blown signal coil in the distrib, or bad connection TO the signal coil. To check the ignition coil, make sure ignition off & disconnect all wires to coil. Between positive & neg terminals of coil should be .5 to .7 ohms (that's right - about half an ohm). Between positive terminal and high tension terminal (where cable attaches) should be between 11,400 - 15,600 ohms (11.4k -15.6k ohms). Unfortunately it's possible for a coil to pass this test but still be bad. But it's not real common.
The resistance of the signal coil in the distrib should be 140-180 ohms. Air gap between the signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projection should be .2 - .4 mm (0.008 - 0.016 in)
Good luck!
I have to say, that is the best post I have seen in a long time. Good job.
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#9
So I got a jump and that did the trick. Not sure why though, I tested the battery and it was at 12.7 volts. It's still hard to start though and I'm worried about breaking down again while going to NY in a few days. I'm going to check vac lines, and run some tests on other components in the starting system and emissions sys' to see if I can find anything. If anyone in the area (Georgetown, Seattle) has 22re vac line experience, or knows of a reasonable mechanic here, shoot me a PM.
Thanks for all the great posts too, love this forum, it's good to see people willing to help each other out.
Thanks for all the great posts too, love this forum, it's good to see people willing to help each other out.
#10
Registered User
Try cleaning up your batt posts, and check the charge voltage - should be 14 volts or so. Also, forgot to mention, but it would be good to clean up the igniter ground - the mounting bolts. You might double-check your timing, too.
#12
Registered User
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