Dropping rear hatch glass in junkyard?
#1
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Be found a really nice 92 4Runner in the local yard. I'm going to pull some body parts form it as it looks like it's a deep southern truck. The frame and everything is nearly rust free. Unreal around here. Anyway, the gate is mint and I want it. Glass is dark tinted and I also want that so I'm not going to break it. If I can get a battery into the yard to hook up to the wire motor how can I drop that glass? Or should I just unbolt the window motor and drop it that way? It's been a While since I did this and want to be as efficient as possible What do you think?
#2
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I've started taking my 12v and 14.4v cordless drill batteries with me into the junk yards. I just use a multimeter to find what terminal is positive and negative on the battery ( and mark them) and with 2 lead wires, it allows me to operate and test almost anything electrical in the yard. Doing this has saved me from buying a few dead window motors.
#3
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Robert, Thats a pretty cool idea
RDubya, I've found hooking the battery to the motor to be the easiest way unless you have very small and agile hands. Find the motor and unplug the harness. Hook the batt up. Hooking up in one direction runs the window up, the other down.
If that doesen't work you'll have to pull the motor out and be careful to support the glass. Theres 3 small bolts on the back of the motor...8MM? I think. They're hard to get at being on the back side, but getting them out was much easier than getting them back in, when replacing the motor.
RDubya, I've found hooking the battery to the motor to be the easiest way unless you have very small and agile hands. Find the motor and unplug the harness. Hook the batt up. Hooking up in one direction runs the window up, the other down.
If that doesen't work you'll have to pull the motor out and be careful to support the glass. Theres 3 small bolts on the back of the motor...8MM? I think. They're hard to get at being on the back side, but getting them out was much easier than getting them back in, when replacing the motor.
Last edited by MMA_Alex; 10-01-2015 at 09:09 PM.
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I've started taking my 12v and 14.4v cordless drill batteries with me into the junk yards. I just use a multimeter to find what terminal is positive and negative on the battery ( and mark them) and with 2 lead wires, it allows me to operate and test almost anything electrical in the yard. Doing this has saved me from buying a few dead window motors.
Oh well 3 8mm bolts and it was down and off the truck a few minutes later. . Truck is a 94 2wd and virtually rust free. Must have been a southern truck. Got the gate and front bumper and drums. Wanted to pull the driveshaft but it is different than 4wd. $55 rear hatch rust free with a good regulator and glass? I did ok I think
#5
You're lucky. Around here when yards first get the vehicles they pull the drums and throw them in a barrel for scrap weight if they're good or bad. When I asked them why they did that they said they won't sell used drums or rotors. They want to sell you new drums. When I mentioned the stock ones are better and the ones they sell are made in China they commented not all of them, the ones you get at NAPA aren't.
Turns out the NAPA ones are Raybestos... made in China.
If I want to get the V6 calipers and rotors on a truck I've been eyeballing I'll probably have to drop the spindle and take it all.
Turns out the NAPA ones are Raybestos... made in China.
If I want to get the V6 calipers and rotors on a truck I've been eyeballing I'll probably have to drop the spindle and take it all.
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