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First off, I don’t know much about cars, but if you can explain in plain English what you think the problem is and/or how I can fix it, I should be able to understand. Also, I have a Haynes manual, number 92075, that I can look at to help.
I own a ’86 Toyota 1 ton pickup. On the steering column there is a button that I must push down and hold as I am turning off the truck, I mention this button because I think in some way it is part of the problem, though I am not 100% sure of this. If the button is not pushed, the ignition switch cannot be turned completely off. I’m not sure the reason for this button, but it came out of the factory this way; this is not an aftermarket addition.
About a couple of months ago the truck quit starting. All of the dash lights and buzzers would work; the engine just wouldn’t turn over. Initially, I thought the key was removed before the ignition switch was turned all the way off, and I just had a dead battery. I forgot to mention above, the key can be removed from the ignition switch at ANY time, even when running. When I jump start the truck, the engine turns over and then the truck would start just fine for a few days, then once again the same problem would occur.
In time, the problem progressed to where I cannot jump start the truck. I do not know where to look for this problem. I’ve thought about replacing the battery, but I do not think that is the problem. As I said, all the bells, buzzers and dash lights work. The sounds are strong, not weak as they would be if the battery were low on power.
With this post I’m looking for suggestions on where to look for the problem. If I know where to look, then maybe I can figure out how to fix the problem. If you have any ideas on how to fix the problem, I am certainly open to that as well.
Put your multimeter on the battery (no multimeter? No excuse for that!! https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-90899.html). You should get about 12.6v (temperature dependent). Then have someone turn the key to start. If the battery drops below, oh, 12.1v, it's discharged. Bells and buzzers can still sound the same even when the battery is too low to turn the starter.
If you have sufficient charge, but get no noise at all when you turn the key to start, put your multimeter on the solenoid connector (the thin wire to the starter). That should have 12v with key to start.
The fact that you can remove the key without it being all the way back to LOCK means the lock cylinder is shot. Which suggests that the ignition switch is just as old and abused, so it too may be gone. Which will definitely keep you from starting.
Last edited by scope103; Jun 24, 2017 at 08:27 PM.
I have a multimeter, just not sure how to use it. Can you tell me which settings to put it on? Told you, when it comes to this stuff, I really don't know anything.
Like Scope said^^^... AND make sure all connections to the battery are good. Repeat: ALL CONNECTIONS (Checking JUST the ground is cliched). Good connection means bare, shiny metal tightly touching bare, shiny metal.
Originally Posted by jlevine66
I have a multimeter, just not sure how to use it. Can you tell me which settings to put it on? Told you, when it comes to this stuff, I really don't know anything.
If you post pictures of your multi-meter, AND your battery posts with connectors, I can show you how to set it up.
After you clean connections and do voltage checks here are next steps:
If possible also pls post schematic from your Haynes manual showing wiring from ignition switch to starter relay to starter solenoid.
On the steering column there is a button that I must push down and hold as I am turning off the truck, I mention this button because I think in some way it is part of the problem, though I am not 100% sure of this. If the button is not pushed, the ignition switch cannot be turned completely off. I’m not sure the reason for this button, but it came out of the factory this way; this is not an aftermarket addition.
The button seems to be working right so don't worry about that.
Originally Posted by scope103
The fact that you can remove the key without it being all the way back to LOCK means the lock cylinder is shot. Which suggests that the ignition switch is just as old and abused, so it too may be gone. Which will definitely keep you from starting.
That can also be caused by a worn out key. The original key for my truck can easily be removed when the truck is running (it is NOT supposed to), but the spare key I have cannot be removed when the truck is running. My original key is definitely more worn (mostly from pocket change) than the spare. Your lock cylinder can definitely be worn out too; I just wanted to mention another possibility.
The actual ignition switch attached to the lock cylinder could be bad like Scope103 mentioned, but start with RAD4Runner's suggestions. If the battery and connections are not working properly, it does not matter if the rest of the electrical system works or not. Since everything electrical on your truck starts and ends at the battery, that would be the first place I would check.
RAD4Runner is pretty good with the electrical systems on these trucks.
Found a picture... jlevine66,
I hope symbol looks the same as on yours. Clean ALL your connections first, then do voltage checks as Scope mentions above^^^
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Jun 25, 2017 at 10:39 AM.
Sorry for the delay in responding, work always seems to get in the way...
The picture of my meter is below, hopefully its the right kind, or at least will work. I will work on making sure the connections are good, should of thought of that, exhaustion is keeping the brain from firing on all cylinders... or that's my story and I'm sticking to it. After doing so I will post pics of the readings and we can go from there. It may be a couple of days before I get back to you. I work tomorrow and then the outlaws (in-laws) show up, joy.
Anything else you can think of please pass it along.
Please ALWAYS indicate model-year-engine-transmission on your signature. Saves time for everybody.
Pls see posts 2 and 4 do things we suggested that you haven't done, yet and let us know.
Don't worry about the Haynes manual; It will not tell you what I THINK is wrong with your truck - LOL!: It is a 1986 so either it is missing a starter relay OR has a starter relay that is wired wrong. (list of affected models)
Let us know when ready to start probing.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Jun 29, 2017 at 08:59 PM.
First off, I don’t know much about cars, but if you can explain in plain English what you think the problem is and/or how I can fix it, I should be able to understand. Also, I have a Haynes manual, number 92075, that I can look at to help.
I own a ’86 Toyota 1 ton pickup. On the steering column there is a button that I must push down and hold as I am turning off the truck, I mention this button because I think in some way it is part of the problem, though I am not 100% sure of this. If the button is not pushed, the ignition switch cannot be turned completely off. I’m not sure the reason for this button, but it came out of the factory this way; this is not an aftermarket addition.
About a couple of months ago the truck quit starting. All of the dash lights and buzzers would work; the engine just wouldn’t turn over. Initially, I thought the key was removed before the ignition switch was turned all the way off, and I just had a dead battery. I forgot to mention above, the key can be removed from the ignition switch at ANY time, even when running. When I jump start the truck, the engine turns over and then the truck would start just fine for a few days, then once again the same problem would occur.
In time, the problem progressed to where I cannot jump start the truck. I do not know where to look for this problem. I’ve thought about replacing the battery, but I do not think that is the problem. As I said, all the bells, buzzers and dash lights work. The sounds are strong, not weak as they would be if the battery were low on power.
With this post I’m looking for suggestions on where to look for the problem. If I know where to look, then maybe I can figure out how to fix the problem. If you have any ideas on how to fix the problem, I am certainly open to that as well.
Please ALWAYS indicate model-year-engine-transmission on your signature. Saves time for everybody.
Pls see posts 2 and 4 do things we suggested that you haven't done, yet and let us know.
Don't worry about the Haynes manual; It will not tell you what I THINK is wrong with your truck - LOL!: It is a 1986 so either it is missing a starter relay OR has a starter relay that is wired wrong. (list of affected models)
Let us know when ready to start probing.
For post 2, I don't know what settings to use. My options are different then the one shown in the post.
I only mentioned the manual in case someone reading/posting MAY have it and needed to refer to it. I didn't figure it would be much use other then that.
In regards to this post, It is a 1986 so either it is missing a starter relay OR has a starter relay that is wired wrong. The truck was working, just fine, this developed or a period of time. Seems to me that if something were missing or wired wrong, it never would have worked, but like I said, I know very little about this stuff, I certainly could be wrong.
I'm going out now to clean the post and check the connections.
I have cleaned the posts and the connectors, checked all the wires attached to the battery and the other end (as best I could). They all seem to be good (no fraying, not loose/disconnected). Once I get the info on the correct settings for the multimeter (see above post), I will check that.
---
Since I need to get a new ignition switch anyways, I'm going to move forward on that, but would like to still check anything else you may think it is. If nothing else, we'll have ruled things out should the switch not be the problem.
Oh, where do I find the engine and tranny info at?? I want to add it as you have asked.
To test the battery voltage with your meter, set the big rotary switch to DCV 20 (Direct Current Voltage; on the 20 Volt scale). RAD4Runner has an auto-ranging multimeter so all he has to do is put the meter in DC volts.
Put the red lead on the positive side and the black lead on the negative side.
I have a few meters and happen to have picked up one like you have for free at Harbor Freight a while back with a coupon, so I took a picture of my battery with the meter:
To others reading this thread, please note that the picture below is an example of my battery and NOT of the Thread Starter/Original Poster.
Example of how to measure battery voltage. 12.56 volts on my battery.
Last edited by old87yota; Jul 1, 2017 at 04:03 PM.
Oh, where do I find the engine and tranny info at?? I want to add it as you have asked.
Thank you,
Jim
I think RAD4Runner is referring to Year, Model (2WD truck, 4WD truck, 4Runner?), Engine (22R carbureted, 22R-E fuel injected, 22R-TE Turbo), and Transmission (4-speed manual, 5-speed manual, Automatic)
That information is usually fine for most things on our trucks. Look at the bottom of RAD4Runner's posts for an example. If we need to get really specific, we can ask for it later.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...ey-off.853533/ It can be helpful with these older Toyota trucks with the 22R/RE to upgrade to larger, high quality battery cables. Using larger cables can reduce your voltage drop. The last paragraph in post #6 on the mustang forum discusses the problem with using clamp on connectors long term. It is possible to upgrade the cables with out spending big bucks.
...It can be helpful with these older Toyota trucks with the 22R/RE to upgrade to larger, high quality battery cables...
NAH! That idea arose from wrong diagnosis and prolems caused by poor maintenance/hack jobs. If people searched this forum well enough they should have already known that the cause of no-crank / clicking C.O.R. only is from wrong wiring of the starter relay OR the absence of it.
In fact, there's a post that, after a couple of days discussion, just got fixed when O.P. realized he did not clean connections thoroughly.
JLevineneeds to check thoroughly before spending money and time replacing parts.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Jul 12, 2017 at 11:30 AM.
I’m getting ready to check the solenoid as your link tells me, just need some time where someone isn’t dragging me here, pulling me there; work isn’t getting in the way, or school isn’t happening, not to mention watching my 4 year old grandson…
and now its getting dark. I know, I know… whaaaaaa… LOL
Sorry for being such a dipsh** about this, just never had anyone around to teach me this stuff.
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I’d still like to know what the reading from the meter means, again, the reading was 12.43
I found the starter relay, and the info in the Haynes manual about its wiring. See following pics.
In addition to the above post, can you tell me which side the starter solenoid will "likely" be on? This lame Haynes manual doesn't. Knowing if the damn thing in on the passenger side or the drivers will help save me some time.
Jun 24, 2017 | 09:28 AM
86 1 Ton pickup won't start
After doing so I will post pics of the readings and we can go from there. It may be a couple of days before I get back to you. I work tomorrow and then the outlaws (in-laws) show up, joy.
