RAD4Runner

Hi Jim,
12.43 Volts is good reading for battery without load.
The solenoid is piggybacked on the starter motor. It is the "master" to the "blaster"
Like my 1986 22RE was and many others, your starter relay is wired wrong. Need to re-wire.
Repeat: IF you did this does your starter crank? Consistently?

jlevine66

I've got the female connector on the starter solenoid, what a PITA that was. Its in a location where it is extremely hard to reach while the truck in on the ground. Maybe it's easier to do with the truck in the air, but I don't have that option. As for the rubber boot, I can get to an angle where I can check it. Suggestions??? I have a jack, even have car ramps, but I'm parked in the driveway and its fairly steep. The idea of crawling under the car while up on one of those scares the crap out of me, even with the emergency brake on and the tires chalked. I have some pretty sever back problems, I don't move as fast as I once did.

One question before I touch the battery. I could have sworn I read to disconnect the negative connection (to the battery), but now I can not find it. Not wanting to potentially cause other problems, or not get the right results... do both battery connectors need to be attached to the posts, does one or the other need to be connected, does it even matter. Do I have this confused with some other post???

Also, should the key be on, at accessories, off??

Thanks,

Jim

jlevine66

Never mind, finally pull my head out and called the local auto parts store, they answered my questions.

Yes, the motor tries to turn over, it doesn't actually start, but I gather its not supposed to.

I believe the next step is the starter relay, right? I think you already posted how to look into this, but would it be better to get a new one?? I've got no issue with repairing it, just wondering.

Thanks,

Jim

jlevine66

Had to run some errands and go get my grandson or I would have posted this earlier.

I followed the wiring, to the best of my ability, here is what I am seeing. Wires come off the battery (pos connection) to the fuse box, a bundle of wires come out of the fuse box, and at a point near/under the fuse box, forms a T. One side of the T goes back into the fuse box (I can take a picture if you want it), the other side goes to the front of the truck, runs along the front of the truck, to the drivers side and that's where I can't figure out where it goes. It looks to go into the side panel, but I am not sure (to much crap in the way).

The wire bundle coming out of the starter relay (or maybe into, or possibly both) goes under the fuse box, and into the side panel (passenger side, near the battery).

If I had to guess I would say the wires going into the drivers side panel go to the ignition switch, from the ignition switch to the passenger side, coming out of the side panel near the battery and go straight to the starter relay. I do not see any wiring going from the starter relay to the solenoid, but that doesn't mean squat, it very well could be part of the mess I tried to follow, i just can't see it.

I think it is essentially what you show in the first diagram picture here, just ran differently.

Regardless, I'm not sure if I can do this. Too much crap in the way, and over my head. Going to look into having the garage do this.

That said, is there any other troubleshooting I can do to help save on the cost of labor. If I can tell the garage that I have done this, this and this, then they won't have to and should save me some money.

RAD4Runner

Hi Jim,
The rubber boot, al those things, no need to do anything major to them. I AM ONLY RECOMMENDING THAT ALL CONNECTIONS BE CHECKED.
No need to disconnect the battery negative.
No need for you to trace all those wires. I already did (based on schematic). My illustration is there to show you so how bad the wiring is. You do not need to track down those wires. You just need to fix the starter relay wiring. Like I said.
I will only take you half hour tops.

What questions? Did they fix anything?

Does it crank CONSISTENTLY crank when you do exactly like I suggested you do?

Yes
Yes
NO. Like I have often emphasized in my many posts, Toyota Parts are bullet-proof. The problems are caused by poor wiring and or assembly. I already said that the starter relay is wired wrong. Replacing it with a brand-new golden starter relay will not fix the way it was wired.
Got $11?
Do exactly THIS to fix the wiring of the starter relay. Ask Griswald on T4R.

jlevine66

Holy moly, now that's a post...lol

The questions I asked the auto parts store were the same silly ass questions I asked you... about disconnecting the battery and if the key needed to be on. Sooooo.... no, they didn't fix squat.

Yes, it does crank consistently, thought I answered that, but if not, sorry.

When you say "insulate this side of wire"... how? Is black tape enough or is something else required?

Got to work all day tomorrow. Will attempt on Sunday.

RAD4Runner

yes, insulate with elecrrical tape
You'll.never need that wire again.

jlevine66

Had a family emergency back home in Oregon.

What gauge is the wire I'm cutting? I need to know what size to buy. I can't expose enough wire to find the info on the sheathing.

jlevine66

Anyone know what the gauge of this wire is? I need to buy enough to get from the relay back to the battery, but I need to get the right size.

RAD4Runner

12AWG for load current carrying wire. Just need about 3 feet.

mldave

Did Rad4Runners relay fix eight days ago with my friends help and so far no intermitant starts.Seems to have more ump when turning the key.