pipe notcher
Feb 26, 2006 | 04:07 PM
#1
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From: denver,CO
pipe notching ???
i am building some rock sliders and now i just need to know how can i notch the ends. i bought a harbor freight tools one but that did not work i was thinking of just gettin a grinder to grind it but that might not come out straight any suggestions on how to or know any one that has one around the denver area or where can i order one from a web site that is not expensive because i will not be using it on a daily basis. thanks
Last edited by JonathanG32; Feb 26, 2006 at 04:09 PM.
Feb 26, 2006 | 04:25 PM
#2
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From: Seattleish, WA
Originally Posted by JonathanG32
i am building some rock sliders and now i just need to know how can i notch the ends. i bought a harbor freight tools one but that did not work
Is this what you bought?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=35782
...any suggestions on how to or know any one that has one around the denver area or where can i order one from a web site that is not expensive because i will not be using it on a daily basis. thanks
I found these (and more) through Google:
http://www.heckind.net/notch/pipenotcher.html
http://www.jointjigger.com/
http://www.lowbucktools.com/notcher.html
I have no experience with these, they're just options for what you're looking for.
Feb 26, 2006 | 06:01 PM
#4
No such thing as a "good" and "cheap" tool. Try www.tricktools.com as that is where I got my tube notcher. You won't find a better notcher anywhere and the service is excellent.
Feb 26, 2006 | 06:27 PM
#5
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Did you use good hole saws? No kidding, I've been using my cheap notcher for 4 years on various projects without much of a problem? Grinder will work, but man it can be ugly if your not careful, plus very time consuming. Most of my notches have turned out great, even the angled ones. Operator error, just kidding. I've mostly used mine on 1.75" .120 wall dom. Maybe try it again with some more patience??? Just a thought
Steve
Steve
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Feb 27, 2006 | 05:10 AM
#8
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From: Columbia, MO
http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi
enter the data, print it out, cut it out, wrap around the tube and trace, cut with your choice of tools and you have a perfect notch
enter the data, print it out, cut it out, wrap around the tube and trace, cut with your choice of tools and you have a perfect notch
Feb 27, 2006 | 05:56 AM
#9
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Feb 28, 2006 | 05:24 AM
#10
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From: Seattleish, WA
Originally Posted by Cebby
Feb 28, 2006 | 05:36 AM
#11
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Originally Posted by midiwall
psssst... hey Mike... OffRoadFab has their forums setup such that you need a login to see anything.
Feb 28, 2006 | 05:40 AM
#12
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
OK - This was written by Marc Googer and is posted over on OFN (offroadfab.net). Plenty of good info over there for the budding off road fabricator...
Originally Posted by keithxtreme @ OFN
The chop saw method, if understood, is a science. With known tube size and joint angle, tube can be notched with great accuracy. The notch is achieved by cutting two opposing angles on one end of a piece of tube, to form a point. The cross-section of this cut will be an elliptical cut due to the shape of the tube. Changes in both of the two angled cuts must be made for the intersection angle and the size of the two tubes being joined. The only real limitation is the max angle of the chop saw.
You start with what I call the base angle. This is the angle of both cuts if the joint was 90*. For an example, I am fitting Two tubes together that are both 1.75", at an 90* joint. The base angle, or the angle of both cuts is 28*. These two cuts must meet at a point, and the point must also be centered on the tube.
What if I want a 15* joint with my 1.75" tube???? You must start with your base angle, which was 28* for 1.75"(remember above), and subtract 15* from one cut, and add 15* to the other cut to form a perfect notch. So now I must make a 13* cut and an 43* cut with the point centered on the tube. Perfect coped joint, with no grinding.
Remember your base angle will change with the tube being cut and the tube that you are fitting to.
* Here are a few examples of base angles...
* 2.0" to 2.0" tube, base angle of 30*
* 1.75" to 1.75" tube, base angle of 28*
* 1.5" to 1.5" tube, base angle of 26*
* 1.25" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 22.5*
* 1" to 1" tube, Base angle of 20*
* Now to fit different size tubes together
* 1.75" to 2" tube, base angle of 25*
* 1.75" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 45*
* 1.25" to 1.75 tube, base angle of 20*
* 1" to 2" tube, base angle of 12*
You start with what I call the base angle. This is the angle of both cuts if the joint was 90*. For an example, I am fitting Two tubes together that are both 1.75", at an 90* joint. The base angle, or the angle of both cuts is 28*. These two cuts must meet at a point, and the point must also be centered on the tube.
What if I want a 15* joint with my 1.75" tube???? You must start with your base angle, which was 28* for 1.75"(remember above), and subtract 15* from one cut, and add 15* to the other cut to form a perfect notch. So now I must make a 13* cut and an 43* cut with the point centered on the tube. Perfect coped joint, with no grinding.
Remember your base angle will change with the tube being cut and the tube that you are fitting to.
* Here are a few examples of base angles...
* 2.0" to 2.0" tube, base angle of 30*
* 1.75" to 1.75" tube, base angle of 28*
* 1.5" to 1.5" tube, base angle of 26*
* 1.25" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 22.5*
* 1" to 1" tube, Base angle of 20*
* Now to fit different size tubes together
* 1.75" to 2" tube, base angle of 25*
* 1.75" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 45*
* 1.25" to 1.75 tube, base angle of 20*
* 1" to 2" tube, base angle of 12*
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